New Owner Camas

[slemers]

Just picked up a 82 KC 2wd in PDX. The truck is surprisingly complete for a 30 year old vehicle. It starts and runs ok but the heater only puts out warm air with the fan sw on position three with the engine at operating temperature. The thermastat is seems to be working properly. I guess I will poke around under the dash this afternoon and see what's up.

Right now it looks good from about 30 feet but could use a paint job. The truck has had at least one respray. The interior has been dyed black with Neon seats. I'll try to post a couple pics this weekend.

[wayno]

Welcome to Ratsun B)

[datzenmike]

Grab the heater hoses at bottom right of the heater if the heater valve is working and fully open both hoses should be too hot to hold. If one is cooler or cold then the valve is not working. Work the heater HOT/COLD lever and watch the linkage. If both hoses are only warm the thermostat may be stuck open and not allowing the engine to full operating temp. The dash gauge should be around the mid point.

 

 

If ok...

Work the HEAT lever leftand right and look on the right side of the heater above the water valve.... the linkage that moves is the air mix door. If you compress the large black accordion hose between the heater and the blower fan on the right you can lift it away and look inside the heater box and see the air mix door. The door should be in the full down position to force all air through the heater core.

 

One thing you may find is that mice have gotten in and built a nest on or blocking the core so no air can get through so have a vacuum handy.

 

 

Now you may find the air mix door correct and the heater valve working and the hoses very hot but the air still only barely warm. This could be that the core is dirty with sediment. Drain a gallon or so of the coolant out of the system. Disconnect the heater hoses out in the engine bay and flush with a garden hose in one pipe and let it run out the other. Be sure the heater valve is full open. This will flush out any sediment and rust from the core. Reverse the direction several times until the water runs clear. Re connect the hoses add coolant and top up.

[slemers]

Thanks for the Welcome Wayno and DatzenMike, I have been tinkering with the truck. The heater valve works correctly as does the air door. I had the mix valve on Bi-level when I drove it home and it put out lukewarm air. This morning I drove it for a bit with the selector in Defrost and also in fresh air and everything seems to work ok with any fan selection. Guess it was operator error.

I'm working on the vacumn lines etc, all the smog stuff is still there and working but for some reason someone had disconnected the carb vent to the cannister.

The timing was set at about 8 degrees, I set it back to 5 or so in an attempt to bring the idle down.

 

Slemers

[slemers]

I went through the vacumn hoses the other day and found 4 hoses mis-routed. The timing was set to 12 degrees. I set it back to 5 and checked the vacumn advance and discovered it wouldn't advance. The PO or his wrench had stuffed a bolt down the vacumn line and plugged it back in. After rerouting the hoses and replacing the PCV valve the engine smoothed out nicely. I also found a leak on the distributor rotor and replaced that as well.

I still haven't discovered the reason for the 1500 rpm idle but for now can live with it. I have a quiet flow muffler on order that should arrive next week. The cherry bomb muffler is a bit too loud for my taste.

I ordered a parking brake cable on Amazon and got the wrong part. It's for a extended cab 720 with the long bed. I thought that my 6.5 foot bed was a long bed. My bad :blush: Is there anyway to use this part or should I send it back?

Cheers,

Slemers

Camas Wa

[Tristin]

So..... this has been a thread since the 10th of November and theres still no pictures? I dont knows whats happening in here.

[slemers]

I started training at C-Tran as a driver on November 13th and I have hardly had a chance to breathe let alone get any pictures on the web. I will try and get a couple tomorrow in the rain. No promises tho :)

[datzenmike]

It's amazing but these motors will tolerate a lot of advance. Still the correct amount is around 3-5degrees depending on year. Vacuum advance should be working and connected for best part throttle performance and mileage.

 

1,500 idle may be the cable is too tight, holding it open.

idle speed screw may simply need to be turned down

It may not idle lower because the idle cut solenoid is inoperative and there is no fuel to the idle circuit. Turn ignition ON/OFF/ON/OFF and listen for a click sound at the back of the carb.

[DISLEXICDIME]

in my 86 with a z24 there is a coolant temp plug on the water neck . mine was melted/broken and maid my truck idol high . Not sure if yours has the plug but it is worth a look . it looks like a 2 prong injector plug

 

i didn't have a plug to replace it with so i zip tied it in to place .

[slemers]

DatZenMike typed: 1,500 idle may be the cable is too tight, holding it open.

idle speed screw may simply need to be turned down

It may not idle lower because the idle cut solenoid is inoperative and there is no fuel to the idle circuit. Turn ignition ON/OFF/ON/OFF and listen for a click sound at the back of the carb.

 

Thanks for the reply, The cable is completely loose and not holding it open. The idle speed screw has no effect.

I will cycle the ignition a few times and see if I can hear the solenoid click. When I decelerate , the idle speed usually hangs up at 2000 rpm, when I kick the accelerator pedal the rpm drops to 1000 then increases to 1500.

 

I took a few jpegs of the truck today but can't seem to find my USB cable to download them :( I will have to take a few with my daughters camera.

[datzenmike]

Coincidentally my Z24 engine swap had an unexplained high idle.... It was the secondary stuck slightly open. Pushed it closed and was fine after.

 

 

 

DISLEXIC, I don't think this is anything that's supposed to be on a 720. Got a picture of what that connects to???

[slemers]

Dislexicdime typed:

in my 86 with a z24 there is a coolant temp plug on the water neck . mine was melted/broken and maid my truck idol high . Not sure if yours has the plug but it is worth a look . it looks like a 2 prong injector plug.

 

My 82 doesn't have this plug, but it was worth a look. Thanks

 

[slemers]

OOPS, wrong photo, here's another one.

[wayno]

Your 82 likely has it, as my 82 SD22 diesel has it.

It's the one below the single yellow wire with the black stripe.

 

Without the plug it looks like this.

[DISLEXICDIME]

Coincidentally my Z24 engine swap had an unexplained high idle.... It was the secondary stuck slightly open. Pushed it closed and was fine after.

 

 

DISLEXIC, I don't think this is anything that's supposed to be on a 720. Got a picture of what that connects to???

 

i don't have a pic . it plugs in to a sensor that is in the coolant neck it looks like the plug in the pic that wayno posted

[datzenmike]

Ahhh ok. The Z22E in the 200sx has one like that in the head. It's for the EFI. DYSLEXIC is your Z24 equipped with the feedback carb??

[slemers]

I had a chance to fiddle with my carb the other day. The anti-diesel solenoid is working properly. I looked at the secondary and it appeared to be fully closed. I cycled it three or four times manually and the diaphram is functioning ok.

Started the truck and once the choke came off, I was able to adjust the idle to a more reasonable rpm than 1500. I still have to kick the accelerator pedal to bring down the idle as I come to a stop though. If i kick it once, it will idle at 750 .

 

I went by MY Daddy's muffler shop on HWY 99 and picked up a 14 " resonator. I tacked it in and left the 12 " cherry bomb in front of the tailpipe. It sounds pretty much stock with this setup. The truck doesn't freak the dog out anymore :)

[datzenmike]

Possibly the throttle has worn the carb body oval and it sticks.

[wayno]

Try a slightly stronger return spring maybe. :)

[slemers]

Possibly the throttle has worn the carb body oval and it sticks.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm thinkin' too. The 1600 Datsun roadster I used to have back in the 80's had the same issues. I can live with 1500 rpm at a stop sign or signal. Now that it doesn't sound like a cement mixer. :)

[slemers]

Try a slightly stronger return spring maybe. :)

 

I'll try that when I get a chance, it can't hurt. I may keep an eye out for a used carb, but I suspect any used ones I find will be just as bad as the one I have

[slemers]

The truck is running better but the throttle bushings are shot. You can pull on the area that the throttle cable attachs to and bring down the idle. I put an extra  return spring on it but I still have to kick the throttle to make it idle. I'm contemplating a rebuilt carb from one of the bigger carb shops. Are there any shops that will rebush the throttle body? Otherwise the carb runs fine. I'd rather keep my smog stuff in place.

So far  have replaced the brakes front and rear with cheap RockAuto parts. I have another brake cable coming Wednesday @O'Reillys.

I also mounted up a good set of WinterFire studded snow tires. I'll be looking for a set of wheels/tires in the spring.

Merry Christmas! :)

[Meltor]

DatZenMike typed: 1,500 idle may be the cable is too tight, holding it open.

idle speed screw may simply need to be turned down

It may not idle lower because the idle cut solenoid is inoperative and there is no fuel to the idle circuit. Turn ignition ON/OFF/ON/OFF and listen for a click sound at the back of the carb.

 

Thanks for the reply, The cable is completely loose and not holding it open. The idle speed screw has no effect.

I will cycle the ignition a few times and see if I can hear the solenoid click. When I decelerate , the idle speed usually hangs up at 2000 rpm, when I kick the accelerator pedal the rpm drops to 1000 then increases to 1500.

 

I took a few jpegs of the truck today but can't seem to find my USB cable to download them :( I will have to take a few with my daughters camera.

i have the same problem but when i kick the accelerator it drops down to 1000.

[slemers]

 A 1000 isn't  too bad, but it sucks when it hangs up @2000 as you stop at a light :(   I may go with a rebuilt carb. I'll post here and let you know if it works out ok.

[slemers]

I bought a carb for parts a couple of weeks ago and took the throttle body from it and installed it on my old carb. The engine now idles as low as 500 rpm. It seems to run best @900 or so .

I also picked up a set of Titan rims off of CL. All I need now is a set of tires for the spring. I may lower it with a 2"block but I'm undecided on that at this point.