There it is! my Wagon!

[Eric]

I just got myself a wagon, a 610 180B, i've been looking for a wagon for ages, but i couldnt find one anywere in Europe but a few weeks ago i found one in the UK.

So i got on the ferry from France to the UK, and picked it up!

 

Car was delivered to the ferryport in the Uk

 

Drove it on the ferry back to France

 

Put it on the flatbed i rented and drove it back to the Netherlands

 

One lady owner since new, had been standing still since 1992, few rusty bits on it but ill fix that.

Interior is like new!

 

 

 

Went for Dutch registration today at 7 in the morning and went home on a flatbed..

 

 

Broke the waterpump/alternator belt on my way to the registration office.

So i fixed that as soon as i could because i had to be at the registration office before 12.

 

After a nervewrecking few hours i finally got my registration!

Now i just have to wait for the paperworks and i can drive it legally.

 

First thing i have to do is fix the rust above the windscreen, and after that it needs low, lots of it.

Rear will be easy, lowering blocks will do the trick.

How about the front? I have loads of s13 parts and 240/260Z parts.

 

Can i use any of that? Or will i need 280zx struts and weld on coilover stuff?

[MicroMachinery]

You don't need 280zx struts for coilovers(though ZX's do improve braking).. you can use stock suspension for that. Also, you don't even need coilovers to lower the front. You can grind the weld off of the spring perch, and slide it up and down on the strut tube(off the car, of course), and re-weld it back on wherever you want. That still gives you the stock ride with more low.

 

Pics of the interior!

[Eric]

so the 280zx stuff is for the bigger brakes only?

[MicroMachinery]

Generally, yes. It also decreases the track width on the front by approximately 3/4"(not sure how much exactly in mm), which for some, isn't necessarily a desirable side effect.

[Eric]

Well, not a lot going on over here since  the wagon is fine, always starts, drives and stops when i want it.

 

Took the windscreen out last week to remove all the rust that is growing around it, bit of a timeconsuming job since it dont want to ruin the roof and i have never welded on roofs before.. it a bit more delicate than doing sills or floorboards..

 

 

 

 

Most of the 'straight' bits are done, now to fix the corners, still have to find a good way to reproduce it. After that i need to find the clips that hold the chrome trims because all of them are corroded and not reuseable.

[Datsun DCX]

i like those tail lights with the amber on top. Are those available there in Europe? I'd like to get a set shipped to the US. Let me know.

[Bentaxlebob]

 Nice welding job. You are doing it the right way. Congratulations.

[Eric]

The taillights are very hard to find. both of mine were cracked when i got the car so i had to find replacements to get it registered. Ended up buying a set in japan, they have the amber top as wel.

[datzenmike]

Love your goon. Even has the correct wheel covers!!! The windshield does have a tendency to rot around the glass. My 710 sedan needed to we welded up too.  One owner... I like that. Is it standard or auto? Looks very nice.

 

 

You can make the 610 struts adjustable for ride height but are limited by their over all length. Too low and you risk bottoming them out. ZX struts are just under 2" shorter than the 610/710 struts which is good but best of all are the monster calipers and vented rotors. You can use them if you remove the zx spring and lower spring seat from the strut and use your 610 spring and seat. The spring seat can easily be removed by using a hacksaw and slicing around the strut tube just above the weld or use an angle grinder.

 

 

 

 

Grind away the weld seam.

 

 

Now your 610 spring seats will be able to slide up or down past this point and be adjustable. I use adjustable split collars to hold the spring seat in place rather than welding which is permanent.

 

 

 

Split collar tightened onto my Maxima strut tube, (almost identical to the 280zx strut) 710 spring mount on top f that then the 710 spring.

 

Finished product.

 

 

 

As mentioned, lowering is limited by the strut tube length. The strut tubes can be shortened and shorter shocks or inserts used inside but this in much more involved with welding and such. If all you need are a few inches this is much easier. If lowering, it's advisable to shorten the spring to increase the spring rate. This will firm up the ride as well and a stiffer spring will reduce suspension travel on bumps. Likely the 610 stock springs (if they are anything like my 710 wagon) as a bit soft for comfort and could use some stiffness to improve the ride and handling.

 

Maxima (zx similar) and 710 (610 similar struts.

 

I cut the 710 spring down to the same height as the Maxima. Slightly over one coil. This increased the spring rate from 100 to 150 pounds per inch. Some 510s go above 200 pounds but I like the ride where I am. Remember when shortening you can't put it back so start with one coil and 1/4 coils after that.

 

 

 

The strut damper fluid can also be replaced with something thicker to firm up the action. The stock fluid is thin and watery so I replaced mine with 20W motorcycle fork oil.

 

 

 

 

Split collars were about $25 CDN and the fork oil was $17 CDN. Cutting wheel for my angle grinder about $3 so under $50. The struts I got from an '84 Maxima wagon for free. For $50 and some work I have the front lower, firmer and the ride height adjustable if I want to, but usually once you have it where you want it, what good are expensive coil overs? they are just along for the ride.

 

 

With 215/60R15s

[Eric]

Hi Datzenmike, my wagon is a manual, still 4 speed. Must change that to 5 speed. I have a S110 5 speed dogleg waiting to get in and a set of 14'' SSR MK2 to replace the steelies with the oem hubcabs.

 

As for the suspension, using just the adjustable rings to support the springseats isnt allowed over here, so i have to reweld the spring seats back on. Also cutting springs is a no go. I have to do an MOT every year so all modifiactions have to be MOT proof.

I have S110, 260Z and S12 front suspension parts as spares so i am pretty sure i can fix something with my angle grinder and a welder that is a bit lower than stock but still acceptable for MOT. 

Like to keep the original suspension untouched in case i ever want to sell the car..

[datzenmike]

Well the split collars can be used to set your ride height and then weld once you are satisfied with it. As for springs being cut how will they know? Either way, good looking goon. Almost all of ours got that terrible side molding strip put on. I think the dealers did that. It makes them look like station wagons instead of goons. What do you call them? Estate cars? or something.

[Eric]

They are mostly called stationwagon, i cal it wagon, but thats only since i discovered ratsun a few years ago.

[RedBanner]

i call it long sex, as opposed to hot sex, or pure sex, of course you drop it on ssr's i suppose that would be long hot sex.

[hosestop@msn.com]

Hey Eric is that an Estate wagon ? ,I heard thats what they call them in UK ,keep the emblems or if you need US ones get a hold of me I can look around , also still interested in all those mtrs ,what is cost in your country ? they are going up here, and I did hear they are running out ,demand is high due to 240sx nuts hear in states.

[Eric]

well as far as i know only 5 of them are left in the UK, now with mine taken to the Netherlands there should be only 4 left in the UK.

But i just found a left hand drive one in the Netherlands so i guess i will have a rhd and a lhd one soon :)