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The Queen Bee


SlottedMagz

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Get er done is what you tell your dog hahahaha :rofl:

 

I Always use Anti-seize .. just a dab on threads ! = http://www.westmarin...CFQWCQgodyEMA-w

 

it happens !

My backup L24 had a head-bolt break below the block sealing surface :lol: ...

I've seen 3 other head bolts just snap when un-torqueing the head for dis-assembly from 2 of 3 spare engines of mine ..

front and rear manifold studs snap off often..

thermostat bolts break/seize..

 

did it break off clean with the gasket surface ? or a nubble sticking out ?

 

Dat Lurka don't you live in a rust-belt state ? lol

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:blink: <_<

 

I almost got a 67' Mercedes from Asheville till he sent me more pics. The carpet was the only thing between your feet and the road.

And back in '10 I was looking at someones car trying to get the A/C to take freon and they asked me to check the tie rod ends because it was clicking when they turned. I got under the car, an 06' pontiac from New York, and it was FUBAR. I told them to sell it before the frame broke in half.

Salt's bad yo.

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I painted mine on with blue :thumbup:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And I'm taking it off tomorrow!

 

 

 

 

 

About sealing dry gaskets.... Once upon a time I picked up this sweet ass cadillac for 1/4 the scrap value. Someone used an entire tube of blue rtv when the put a new "dry" timing cover gasket on the 429. Water was half oil, oil half water, and everything was frozen solid! :poop:

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There are three rules to working on Datsuns.

 

1.) Never over-tighten a bolt.

2.) Never use an impact wrench on anything.

3.) Always use anti-seize.

4.) Always use anti-seize.

5.) Always use anti-seize.

6.) Always use anti-seize.

.... you get the point.

 

And when you reassemble make sure you clean all your bolts up. If they are chewed, the threads are rusty, warped, get new ones. Nissan sells almost all the bolts for an L-engine, still. Nuts and washers just get at a hardware store. Make sure you get metric - they are different. M6, M8 and M10 are prolly the only ones you'd need to get. M6 = 10mm, M8 = 12mm, and M10 = 14mm in the Datto world. Aftermarket fasteners are going to end up being 10mm, 13mm, and 17mm. The shoulder lengths are important as well. I would always prefer new OEM bolts just because they are pretty and correct.

 

Oh and don't forget to clean out the holes too. With everything clean, use your anti-seize, and never worry about it again. This is when you also chase or repair all your threads!

 

Oh and about the valve cover... they can be a pain in the assholes. And yes those casting edges are SHARP... I actually sand paper all the rough edges to cut off the razor blade effect and de-burr. Just for the very reason that I don't want to get cut again, it sucks. FWIW, I always just use a razor blade to get the gasket off.

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About sealing dry gaskets.... Once upon a time I picked up this sweet ass cadillac for 1/4 the scrap value. Someone used an entire tube of blue rtv when the put a new "dry" timing cover gasket on the 429. Water was half oil, oil half water, and everything was frozen solid! :poop:

 

It's a red neck chevy guy thing.... They glue everything on.

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