dakotahchore Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 1 Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 2 Quote Link to comment
DatMo Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 that is a nice fucking touch. this cars a champ. keep it up! Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted October 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 So I'll give a summary of what the whole deal is here. Spun a rod bearing. Everything is brand new. OEM rods and pistons, 20 over. Block decked, honed, magnafluxed. Crank ground and polished. .10 over Clevite 77 bearings. ARP head studs and Cometic metal head gasket. New valve stem seals on a hot tanked and resurfaced head. All timing equipment is new, all gaskets are new, Cleaned up the intake manifold. Everything has been painted and cleaned meticulously. Full engine bay shave, painted it at home. Fixed all the rust in the front half of the car. Etc, etc. Pictures are better than words! that is a nice fucking touch. this cars a champ. keep it up! Thanks man! 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 1, 2013 Report Share Posted October 1, 2013 that gold POPS! love it 1 Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2013 Small update... I got laid off for a while so the car went on hold while I waited for another paycheck. I've been back to work, so I am trying to finish up the rebuild and get her rolling again. Basically I was having idle issues where it wouldn't rev past 2500, there was a few problems in my custom wiring harness (Don't shoot me, I'm still new to this!)Deep's Garage fixed the harness but said there was a racket behind the timing cover; towed the car home and pulled it apart and found that the idler bolt had been stripped and backed itself out. I'm waiting for my helicoil kit to show up at my parts store so I can fix this and hopefully drive my baby again. As she sits 30 minutes ago: 1 Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted December 24, 2013 Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 bummer, Redeye had this issue too... Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2013 Total pain in the ass! I've lost a lot of motivation not being able to drive her and all; but there's only so many things that I'll have to replace before she works again :D 2 Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 I finally got her running again properly after the full engine rebuild. 6 tow truck rides, 3 engine wiring harnesses, 2 ECUs, 2 engine blocks, and immeasurable headaches and busted knuckles later. Got some small stuff to finish up still, but she lives! 2 Quote Link to comment
15om Posted December 29, 2013 Report Share Posted December 29, 2013 congrats! looks great. Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 So I got my KA wired up and all that and it runs really rough/low idle off throttle. I can rev it up nicely. Seems like the timing is off but I checked multiple times, rotor was lined up to plug 1 at TDC. Mechanical timing was done correctly. When I unplug the MAF to force safe mode it idles really smooth although kind of high. If I fully retard distributor, it doesn't want to run at all. Advancing it all the way helps keep it running but barely. Cracking the throttle body is idles a lot better but still seems off time/maybe misfiring. IACV was taken out and cleaned, coolant temp and sender are new, wiring harness is unmodified besides fuel pump wiring and ecu power wire and pulled from a working s13. Tried 2 known working MAFs and ECUs, no change. No error codes. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Where is your iacv getting its air from? Before it after the mas? Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Where is your iacv getting its air from? Before it after the mas? After the MAF, before the throttle body. There's a tube coming off my intake that was working perfectly fine for IACV before. Unplugging all the shit in the back of the engine for IACV has no effect on the idle. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Did you test the iacv to see if it was functioning? I know you cleaned it. Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Did you test the iacv to see if it was functioning? I know you cleaned it. How can I do that? This seems reasonable, considering unplugging it has no effect. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 http://forums.nicoclub.com/iacv-aac-cleaning-and-testing-tutorial-t251133.html Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Stupid double posting slow network Quote Link to comment
frisco510 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 did you unplug the tps when setting the timing? Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 did you unplug the tps when setting the timing? Not really sure what to do with TPS. It's set good I think, because it wasnt adjusted and worked fine pre rebuild. Unplugging it only results in heavy throttle delay. I never touched it when trying to adjust idle. Quote Link to comment
DottiBlue Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 He's talking about when you set the timing/ idle. If you have you chiltons, it goes through the steps. Idle at this rpm with tps disconnected. Then set timing. Then reconnect. If it's connected when you set the timing it will be wrong. Advanced or retarted. Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 He's talking about when you set the timing/ idle. If you have you chiltons, it goes through the steps. Idle at this rpm with tps disconnected. Then set timing. Then reconnect. If it's connected when you set the timing it will be wrong. Advanced or retarted. I see... so restab the dist at TDC and rotor at number 1 again? What about the IACV? Quote Link to comment
frisco510 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 the links should help http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/240sx-distributor-timing.html http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/adjusting-the-timing-240sx.html Quote Link to comment
dakotahchore Posted December 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 the links should help http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/240sx-distributor-timing.html http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/adjusting-the-timing-240sx.html Thanks, but I don't think that's my problem. Even restabbing dist at TDC and all that and starting it with TPS unplugged results in a horrible idle. It dies half the time from stalling out. Quote Link to comment
frisco510 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 and your sure doth chains are set right? was ANYTHING changed to your set up after rebuild Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.