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Who can i.d. this diesel 4 cylinder engine?


dhp123166

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New u-joints on the rear drive shaft and new center support bearings.

 

I'm glad Nissan had the foresight to equip the driveshaft w/ rebuildable u-joints.

 

The old ones were very loose and the support bearing was missing almost all the rubber insulation.

 

Wow I was wondering where all the torque was going even if it is a diesel!

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  • 4 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

FUEL ISSUE;

 

Okay, I'm ignorant. I had no idea that diesel fuel and water contamination was such a large issue.

 

The other day my truck would not start. Then it finally did and ran fine.

 

I was driving down the street and ascertained it may have been clogged filters. Sure enough last filter change was 13,000 miles prior. Changed the filters. The upper springs had jelly around them. Hmm, never seen that.

 

Then the next day it would not start period. Had it towed to my mechanic and he said he emptied out a cup or so of water from the upper filter (so that's what that draincock on the bottom section was for). He also suggested starting fluid (ether). Went out and bought some. Changed the starter as I ground the old one up through overcranking.

 

Got it home and cold starting is an issue. It will not start cold without starter fluid. Check for water indicates nothing. 

 

Did I screw the injection pump up? Most jelly is gone as I manually cleaned it and purchased chemical additives made for the issue. Suggestions?

 

Also, I was told that one can run transmission oil through the fuel system to clean up things, is this true?

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These have glow plugs?  Extended cranking may have made them overheat and burn out.  I would think that if the IP was damaged, it wouldn't run at all.  That or you have an air leak on the low pressure side and are sucking air until it fires up, which pulls enough suction to get the fuel moving.

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I would suggest you get your fuel from somewhere else, if you have water in it, then either you have had flooding in your area, or the good state of California is your problem, with there warped view of how things work, maybe you can get your fuel from another state.

The only time I have ever heard of water in the fuel was on hiway 101 in Oregon, everything was flooded one spring(couple feet under water), and the fuel tanks of the gas stations got contaminated with water, that was the only time I have heard of it.

 

You have a VE type injection pump, so I don't know much about them, but there are a couple things you should not do, one is to crank the engine over for more than a half a minute at a time, the starter gets to hot and burns up.

Ether(starting fluid) is bad, don't use it if you can help it.

When you first try to start your engine, have someone check to make sure you do actually have voltage to the glow plugs, if they don't get hot, it's really hard to get the engine started, if it's cold enough, it will not start at all.

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Another way that gets water in the tanks is if the return lines or tank vent lines (and I'm assuming diesels have them) get cracked, then water ingress from running through puddles and such happens.  But any time you see water, best to drain the tank.  If it's in the filters, it's in the tank.

 

When I was in the Navy we had to regularly strip water from the tanks in the boats.  They even had built in stripping valves or pumps for the purpose.  On those, though, the flush-deck tank caps always leaked, so we always had water in there.  That water will do horrid things to an injection pump.

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Various sources sell inline Diesel fuel filter/water separators.  They come in 4 basic varieties.

1- in line ilter with glass bowl only.  Get off your butt and look periodically, remove the glass bowl and dump the water accumulated in the bottom and whatever fuel floats on top.  PITA.

2- In line filter with glass bowl and a dump valve on the bottom.  Periodically get off your butt, look, open the valve and dump the water.

3- An improvement on number 2.  It has a set of electrodes set at a predetermined [by the vendor, sorry] which lights a warning lamp when the water reaches the predetermined level.  Get off your butt and open the drain valve.

4- the lazy owner's special.  Like number 3 but with an electrically activated dump valve.  Sit on your butt!  The water detector and automated dump valve will take care of the problem for you.

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MY NEW FRONT BUMPER BAR;

 

 

IMG_7512_zps4805270a.jpgIMG_7511_zpsc005d3f1.jpg

 

 

Stumbled upon this, this past Saturday. I have been looking for one of these for a little while.

 

I let another style bumper bar  with the hoops surrounding the headlights slip through my fingers  a coupla months ago.

 

I accidentally ruined a Becker Grand Prix Analog AM/FM/SW radio (Google how much they go for) while trying to remove it from a 70 Mercedes 280C.

 

I was too dejected to pull the bumper bar, someone else grabbed it and I have been looking for one ever since.

 

I think this looks badass...

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  • 2 weeks later...

FOUND SOME 4 X 4 FLARES (and a Pacesetter Exhaust Tip).

 

 

 

 

 

  IMG_7621_zpsf028114e.jpgIMG_7620_zpsa05fd5a9.jpg

 

 

What's great is even though they are 30 years old, they still installed and fit great.

 

I don't think they look too rice either.

 

Luckily the front tires are stock width but smaller in diameter than stock so there is zero rubbing when turning.

 

WIN!

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  • 2 weeks later...

NEW FUEL FILTER BRASS FITTINGS;

 

The top photo shows the new manly brass fittings I  installed on my second fuel filter.

 

The bottom photo shows what the fittings on my second filter were; hinky little nylon pieces which were probably close to failure due to the shaking of the diesel engine.

 

They were a definite weak point.

 

I changed the fuel lines as well because they have probably not been changed in forever!

 

 

 

IMG_7885_zpscd0b4e39.jpgIMG_7884_zpsd18b4923.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

BREAKING CAR AND TRUCK REPAIR RULE #1 ( IF IT AIN'T BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT)

 

Been a long time since I heeded this one!

 

Changing those plastic fittings to metal was something I should not have done.

 

Long story short, many removals of that plastic secondary filter and replacement with spares (which, why  P.O. kept because they were more broken than the one on the vehicle, I cannot tell you)!

 

Many cups of diesel fuel spilled, many stupid mistakes taking shortcuts, many issues created, much cussing on my part.

 

Those plastic secondary filters I had are at least 20 years old and the company which made them was bought out twenty years ago.

 

Finally said f*** this I  want a piece of new 21st century technology and not from a salvage yard.

 

Thanks you NAPA auto parts!

 

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

IMG_8009_zps6b1bc9a2.jpg

 

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I bought from one of them guys down there, his ebay name is micas_y_mas,

DSCN0771.jpg

they are not show quality, but are decent.

I paid $29.95 to get them to my door, and they came fairly fast for being shipped just after thanksgiving.

This guy.....

Careful doing business with him, and if you do; make sure the fit is right before you try to mount them.

I'm not the only one to have a bad experience with him

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This guy.....

Careful doing business with him, and if you do; make sure the fit is right before you try to mount them.

I'm not the only one to have a bad experience with him

 

To be fair I got a good item at a good price but I guess I was lucky...

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  • 3 years later...

Someone in 2012 wanted to make 1 Nissan out of 3, or 4, and stuff a diesel in it. I did the same thing, and it works well. So I am curious as to how he made out. Satisfy my curiosity, email me at jimfromazbc@gmail.com might be able to help anyone else with Nissan P/Us.

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Someone in 2012 wanted to make 1 Nissan out of 3, or 4, and stuff a diesel in it. I did the same thing, and it works well. So I am curious as to how he made out. Satisfy my curiosity, email me at jimfromazbc@gmail.com might be able to help anyone else with Nissan P/Us.

Satisfy our curiosity and start a new thread about the truck you built.

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