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Dizzy= Remote ignitor to matchbox


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So I may be over/under thinking this and if it's a stupid ass question, excuse my derpishness....

(In my defense, i haven't really slept in days...)

 

 

I pulled off my remote ignitor dizzy to install my matchbox dizzy today, and I noticed that the ign rotor on the matchbox is pointing completely opposite from the remote ignitor dizzy.

 

And I know that the shaft has an offset pin so you can't put it on backwards... so er uhhh...what in the fuck do I do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh also, WTB dizzy timing adjustment thingy for a matchbox dizzy. Cuz the one on the remote ignitor dizzy is WAY the fuck different. Totally different ball game.

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Matt

 

I have no ... experience with these matchbox's

 

Just 280zx e12-80 matchbox's

 

Do you have the correct distributor-base by chance ? (Some people pull the zx distributor at a wrecking yard ... and leave the base behind ... when they go to install/time it ... not even close)

 

Pics dude ;)

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I got the pedestal, but I'm just gonna make my own timing plate out of Aluminum ;)

 

I don't think those are going to be an issue. Correct/incorrect pedestal should be irrelevant to rotor position right?

 

 

With the remote ignitor dizzy, the brass on the rotor is pointing towards the steering column, and the matchbox the rotor is pointing 180 degrees opposite. Literally exactly opposite. :geek:

 

Call me crazy, but shouldn't the rotor position be EXACTLY the same regardless what dizzy is being used and what pedestal is on the timing cover? Those are only relevant when setting ign timing right?

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Set TDC, drop the oil pump and move the spindle to a new position where the rotor is pointing to any plug wire on the cap above it. Any one. Now move the #1 plug wire to this terminal and move the other three (3,4,2) counter clockwise around from the #1.

 

Get a small pair of vice-grips or a small clamp to hold the distributor in position once you set timing. Then find the correct base.

 

.

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With the remote ignitor dizzy, the brass on the rotor is pointing towards the steering column, and the matchbox the rotor is pointing 180 degrees opposite. Literally exactly opposite. :geek:

 

Call me crazy, but shouldn't the rotor position be EXACTLY the same regardless what dizzy is being used and what pedestal is on the timing cover? Those are only relevant when setting ign timing right?

 

Not all Lseries rotors point the same direction even though the rotor/spindle is at 11:28.

 

If it is exactly 180 out simply move the plug wires half way round.

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You'll find out ...

 

 

 

 

 

The rotor position depends on the pedestal. And you can't flip the wires, because you can't get the rotor teeth to line up.

Best to get the correct pedestal. Alternatively you can re-index the distributor drive, but that's doing it the wrong way -- and the hard way. Guys often end up mofidying the timing plate and the re-index because they are impatient.

 

Get the right pedestal and it bolts right in, per the book.

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On my dizzy the rotor position depends on the spindle that drives it. You can drop it, turn to a new position and install... the dizzy shaft has to turn to this new position in order to seat into it. As long as the new rotor position is under a terminal... this becomes the new #1. Just arrange the wires 1342 around the new position.

 

 

Ah I see the problem here. ggzilla you're thinking A series right? with a drive gear on the dizzy shaft? Well the L series doesn't have this.

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Yea, um no.

 

I have done a few dizzy swaps. Right pedestal means nothing. I have always had to reclock the dizzy drive. Try going from points to a matchbox on a L16.

 

hainz makes mention of it in his video I do believe.

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Naw, on the A-series you can do whatever. Which won't work on the L-series because it is indexed to the oil pump.

 

If it is exactly 180 degrees out, just swap the wires. Or, unbolt the pedestal and bolt it back on 180 degrees off. But you'll probably find it is not exactly 180 degrees, more like 165 and you can't get enough adjustment travel to rotate the housing to line up the rotor/stator teeth.

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Umm, no

 

There are two points distributors for L16, and the matchbox distributor. Each take a different pedestal. And there are two different timing plates. Get the right combo and it bolts up without re-clocking.

 

TIP: when you buy a distributor, get the matching pedestal *and* timing plate.

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Most cases people will put the vac adv in the same spot as the old dizzy and then notice the rotor is pointing pretty much the oppsite direction. should be close to a wire with in say 10degs.

All you need to do is swap #4 wire and make it #1 and then go 1 3 4 2 CCW fire order.

 

Now there where 2 types of Matchbox dizzys. That used 2 different types of pedastals. 1 pedastal is the same as the early Remote EI type and Matchbox then the other matchbox used a different pedastal. which is like 15-30 deg off lets say. its enough to start but goes out of time when it advances.

 

I dont think this is your prople. unless you jotice its inbetween wires.

 

PS these is a 8mm polt under the dizzy to move the timming plate adv or retard. I notice I have to reset this also after doing a change like this to recenter the plate to get full movement of the dizzy.

 

ON my vid on one motor(that was on the gorund) I notice putting th same dizzy the rotor pointed th oppisite direction. I didnt put that moto together I bet the builder was just turning the spindal till it came out in the 11.28 position. Instead of using the indexes on the pump and the dot on spindal.

 

I seen a guy drop a oil pump cause he was 180deg out. I said why didnt you just move the plug wires? Then he thought I was being a Dick!!!!!!! But we all learn. I was just lucky 1st time out

 

 

when it comes to timming I look at it as a clock. hand. You either can move the arm to get to the spot you want or move the whole number face or combo off to get the timming to where you want it. and the reference is always Zero TDC or really close to say 10BTDC buts its enought to keep the dizzy loose and turn it till it fires off. Simple enough but nissan made changes to dizzys and pedastals and timming plates and over the years parts get mismatched and this happens.

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Alright guys, I got it now :thumbup:

 

Well for the most part....

 

 

 

 

So I have it swapped and 180'd the wires to match the new rotor position. Got the dizzy on, wired, and I have NO spark checked from the ign coil.

 

I have it wired identical to the old remote ignitor that I just took off. In fact, i used a matchbox module on the remote ignitor dizzy last.

 

B on module to Coil +

Ign 12V to Coil +

C on module to Coil -

 

 

Gonna try running an extra ground wire and see if that helps.

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