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lowering problem


Dawa

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hows it goin gents. got around to installing 3" drop blocks on my 73 620 today.

i was expecting to lose ground clearance but not as much as i ended up losing.

i only have 3.5" of clearance between the metal tab that the rear shocks go into. and only 3" from the u bolts and shocks bolts.

(this photo is not mine, but i am using it as an example to illustrate my problem)

205362_10151076010488755_851362897_n.jpg

is this not uncommon with those who use 3" blocks?

i know that going with a larger wheel/tire combo that i can gain some clearance, and i bought 2" blocks at the same time i bought the 3s just incase 3 was too much.

 

but again im just curious if this is common, and/or what is done to overcome this seeing as how i know guys go much lower than a 3" rear drop

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Torque the u-bolts to spec, then cut excess flush to the leaf-spring seat and you'll be fine. I had to do this to mine, I'm running 3" blocks with 2 springs (main & bottom). As for the shock stud, I left that un-cut. I've had no problems.

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YOu must have pulled soem leafs out.

 

pulling leafs wont make the ubolts get any closer since the axle sits on top of the main leaf. all it will do is make the truck lower t o pull leafs. its bhasic geomerty. your ubolts were 6 inches away b4. now you moved the axle 3 inches up and the ubolts are 3 inches away... simple

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Only way to truly fix this and get more clearance is to remove the blocks or get shorter ones, and have the leafs re-arched so they are flatter. Removing leaves is wrong. It reduces the spring rate which allows the truck to travel further on bumps... not the best thing on a lowered vehicle now is it??? If anything, you want stifer rate to prevent bottomiing out.

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Torque the u-bolts to spec, then cut excess flush to the leaf-spring seat and you'll be fine. I had to do this to mine, I'm running 3" blocks with 2 springs (main & bottom). As for the shock stud, I left that un-cut. I've had no problems.

torqued to spec. im a weapons mechanic and torque reqs are big to me. but its a whole other experience torquing those damn u bolt nuts while youre on your back and only have 3" of room for the wrench and deep well socket.

and cutting the bolts was my intention, glad to hear thats what others have done.

 

YOu must have pulled soem leafs out.

 

Only way to truly fix this and get more clearance is to remove the blocks or get shorter ones, and have the leafs re-arched so they are flatter. Removing leaves is wrong. It reduces the spring rate which allows the truck to travel further on bumps... not the best thing on a lowered vehicle now is it??? If anything, you want stifer rate to prevent bottomiing out.

 

banzai, mike i actually read a lot of posts by you guys before i lowered the truck. i didnt remove any leaves based on your and others information. didnt consider re arching, ill have to read up on that.

 

i regretted to hear that the answer is to go less low, i was hoping there was some secret i didnt know. ill probably swap in the 2" blocks.

 

thanks for all your input guys.

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Dawa...I hear ya on torqueing those u-bolts when you're under there on your back...not fun! Mike, I completely agree with you...removing leaves is wrong and re-arching is the best way to go, period. In my case, I knew I would be going to a four link and bags so, I didn't want to invest in the re-arching when I knew it would be temporary. Also, CA has a law that states: nothing below the bottom of the rim, and with the spring pack intact and my 14" wheels, I was in violation. So I did remove 3 springs to be in compliance...Nevertheless, still wrong and I don't advocate doing it, it's just what I did for the time being. I am running 185/60/14 tires & rims. Jersey

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Idk how bad it is but I did it and it's pretty stiff and rids ok. I took out the bigger leaf and put it on top and used C clamps to smash it flat and threw the bOlt back in. And added a 2" block. Running 195/50/14r stock bumps about 1" away. I'd post a pic but my iPhone can't do it an I dnt have a computer right now. Ill try to get one. Id say it lowered it 4" about from stock. ??

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Moving a spring above the main leaf basically removes it from the system. Well unless it's clamped onto the main leaf. If it rides stiffer perhaps it's lowered so far you're riding on the rubber bump stops??? If so your tires are now your suspension.

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How was the pinion angle? I lowered my 710 with 2" blocks but at the same time I put in a long 5 speed. The car hummed at speed. I measured the tranny to driveshaft angle and the driveshaft to diff angle and they were different. I slipped a washer under the backs of the 2" blocks and... bingo!!! Drives quiet again.

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reading about the whole angle thing made me apprehensive about going with 3" blocks. i havent had the chance to measure it. after i dropped it i took it for a test drive

but the car broke down. fuel related. i have to drop the tank and derust it and inspect the pick up unit. replaced the fuel filter when i first got it.. only put a few hundred

miles on it and its alright filling up with rust particles. replacing the filter and pump as well.

 

the 3" drop with my current tires/wheel and leaf combo just does not provide enough ground clearance. im gonna swap the 3s out for 2s instead.

 

how does one measure the pinion angle, anyways? ive yet to research it.

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In reply to the pinion angle, I used the BellTech 6200 Lowering Block kit. This kit can be purchased with whatever size blocks you want, but the blocks are slightly angled to keep the pinion angle close to original.

 

A link for reference from Vic Hubbard on eBay so you can see the blocks... http://www.ebay.com/itm/220098908175

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^ i had read about the angled blocks and considered it, but some had made it seem like 3" blocks dont always throw the angle out of wack. thank you for weighing in, however.

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