Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

29 OK

About cobra269

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/17/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Redding, CA.
  • Cars
    84 Chevy Silverado CC/Dually, 75 Datsun 620, 2000 Ford Taurus, 86 Chevrolet Cavalier
  • Interests
    Too much to list, but definately my 620
  • Occupation
    CEO FreeCycle Recycling

Recent Profile Visitors

4,112 profile views
  1. I like that! LOL...
  2. I don't typically pull a loaded trailer with a loaded truck up hills for very long for enjoyment. LOL. And I never go above cab height when loaded, so I don't really get much extra wind drag. If I have a Refrigerator standing upright in the bed of the truck, with other appliances and the trailer, then I really notice a difference, but downshifting into 4th takes care of it. But as a daily, with no load and no trailer, no problem... And my fuel mileage? WHOOPPIE!!!! When I had the 4.37's, from Redding to Stockton, it cost me $60 one-way (Loaded). That same trip (Loaded) with the 3.70, $30. And that compensating for the difference in price of fuel. But I got one question? How do I keep people from asking me if I want to sell the truck? I get one person a week on average! Hahaa!
  3. Don't get me wrong, I love these 3.70's with the current tires, but when I go back to my rim huggers, I'll essentially be creeping up to theoretically a 3.88. So With my tire huggers and a 3.55, I should be close to what I have now, when it comes to RPM vs MPH vs HP... Right now, truck alone, I can cruise up a 12% grade in 5th and still gain speed (Slowly). With trailer hooked and loaded, I can pull that same grade in 3rd easily and still gain speed, but 4th has no chance. Unloaded trailer, I can maintain speed in 4th on the same grade. And I have to correct/clarify myself from earlier. The 1.25 tons is with the weight of the trailer included.
  4. So those LED Headlights are working now? Pics appreciated!!!
  5. After 7 years away from this topic, I am still running the 3.70 rear gears with the 5 speed. Only difference is, I am running 185/60-R15's now... If I had to do it over again, which may be someday soon, I would go with the 3.55's in the rear with my old tires pictured in my profile... With current setup, my speedo is 2 mph faster than my GPS at 55 mph currently. I pull a 600 pound unloaded trailer with ease (Stopping is a different story) and with the trailer and truck both loaded, I have only minimal issues with speed... I can still do 65 mph easy with 1.25 tons added via loaded material with the combination of truck and trailer. So, when it comes down to it, my only issues are hampered by load! No! I would not pull 1.25 extra tons with my prior tires! LOL... FYI: 2,000 in trailer and 500 lbs in truck... Look for me sometime soon, driving south down I-5, heading to Stockton, with an extended Datsun Truck Bed Trailer, loaded with crates of power supplies, laptops, cable boxes, computer motherboards, etc... Most likely in the Fall!
  6. "so "plug and play" is false advertising" The lights linked in my Original Post are "Plug and Play" for the 620 and most vehicles (Standard Wiring), other than what is described in the post about mounting... As for the rest of your comment, thumbs up!
  7. cobra269

    LED Headlights

    Be Advised: Not all LED Headlights are direct drop ins... Mine plugged right in and worked with no wiring modifications, but if you buy a different brand, you may have to eject the ground and low-beam wires from the molex on your harness and reverse them. You might have to switch the wiring even more than that, it just depends on the standards of the headlight where it is manufactured! If you buy from the links I provided in this post, you should not have any issues other than what has already been described.
  8. My 75 620 is Positive Switched. So my harness passes 2 positives and a Static (Unswitched) Ground to the harness (Not Modified) where it plugs into the headlight. And if there is a wire hanging from the headlight itself, that is for the Halo (Angel Eyes as some call them) and it is positive to operate. I followed the link to where he purchased his headlights and they have the Halo Function, so there is 4 points of contact, 1 ground and 3 positives, 2 of the positives for High-Low-Beam function via the standard pin connection, 1 for the Halo.
  9. Load Resistors are only needed for Turn Signals, unless you have an LED Flasher Unit...
  10. I haven't read through all of the replies yet, but the ones I purchased were Plug & Play. Plugged them in and they worked as normal. However, I bought a set from the same seller a few weeks back (7" for a Chevy C10) and they didn't work right out of the box. The Ground Lug and one of the Hot Wires had to be reversed in order to work. I'm not familiar with how to remove the female connectors from the headlight molex, maybe someone else is, but all that needs to be done, is a simple wire flip. I didn't document the details for the Chevy, because it really wasn't a relevant issue I would think I would need to reflect back on. Sorry.
  11. Actually, after getting a chance to get it on the freeway, the Speedometer from the 79 was reading way low, compared to the stock 75 Speedo. 35 mph on speedo, 55 on GPS... Removed the Cluster, two screws to remove one speedo and put the old one back in, works 100% perfect now! And I'm 100%sure of it now... Since I was pressed for time, couldn't get a picture of the 2 wires, but they run to a Lever type Switch that is mounted inside the Speedometer, activated by the existing gears. The 79 Speedo did not have such a thing! Any idea what the hell that switch could be for? The switch appears to activate ground since one wire actually attaches to the physical body of the speedo. Ahh well, be back as soon as I can figure out how to attach pics again.
  12. UPDATE: My 75 appears to have the Regulator external to the gauges, and 4 separate wires, 2 to the regulator, then one from the regulator to the cluster ground. The other 2 wires I am not sure yet, haven't dug that deep into the old cluster. After swapping the Cluster from a 79 into the 75, direct drop in via the molex, minus the regulator wires and two other unknown wires, all is working perfect again. Now, it's time to rebuild the old cluster and make it nice once again... I'll get a picture up soon of the rear of my old cluster and the regulator.... Then try to figure out where those other two wires go inside the old cluster.
  13. I actually had an entire cluster from a 79, I just swapped them out. But thank you!
  14. I'll check that out too. Thanks!
  15. Ah! Thanks for pointing that out. Hopefully this other cluster I grabbed and LED'd will work until I can fix the other for a backup.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.