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b210 ....bike carbs...turbo?


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fyi....summit racing has a nice array of b210 parts. but not as many as rockauto.com

 

can u help me with a tech question?

i want to put a turbo on my 81 datsun b210 coupe, 2000lbs with 53/47 weight distribution, 92" wheelbase

1488cc A15 motor stock reverse flow cooling

76mm bore x 82 mm stroke, 90.78 cid with 85 hp @6500 rpm, 64.78%V.E

i found a pick n pull junkyard turbo, schwitzer 3LM-311115 oil cooled with chausson intercooler from 1989 Mack midliner cs-200 with renault engine 235hp

http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/catalogs/model.php?base=schwitzer&pagina=3LM

can this be used on a gas engine and if so one with only 90 cubic inches?

 

also plan to mount yamaha r6 carbs as like sidedraft or weber dcoe's and run a universal or interupter style fuel pump to keep constant 3psi

 

but with the turbo factored in, i need to run at least 10 psi.

 

seen a youtube video of same datsun running a gt15 turbo @5 psi of boost run 10.71 1/4mi on E-85....stock block and head can hold 10 psi max, but there's a video of a 30 psi A12 making 321 dyno hp.

this guy runs 9's but with a sr20 turbo...i wanna keep my a series

 

 

this is a step by step pdf file for yamaha r1 carbs

http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/files/legacy/TOV64.tech60697.pdf

http://www.boggbros.co.uk/

danst engineering

TPS on the carbs, this pushes the price up to near 100-120 quid a set ie, R1 carbs with tps are expensive as some management systems need the this to work. getting ones with tps will allow you to shift to megajolt down the line if you wanted...

To get dissy to work proper you will need to tap a vac line into each runner and run the hose to a reservoir to even out the pulsing, a fuel filter works good for this,.

When sourcing carbs try and get ones that have adjustable (dynojet) needles, makes tuning easier.

As nige says the mechanical pump with reg will work or just get a bike pump, most bigger bikes all use the same mitsubishi pump.

also a throttle cable and ferrule end to fit the carb spindle shaft wheel too.. easy meat!

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First, get the R1 carbs running good w/o a turbo. It takes quite a bit of work to make them run acceptably on a car.

They will work fine with careful tuning.

 

Then do a draw-through turbo, 5 to 10 psi, no intercooler.

You can make good power with that. Like 40% more than stock.

 

The video is an advanced turbo setup, EFI port injection so you can run intercooler to make big power increases. It's unlikely you could do that with R1 carburetors.

 

A15 runs fine without distributor vacuum advance. So keep it simple. Vacuum advance will improve fuel economy and light-throttle response -- neither of which are necessary in a car, let alone with a turbo.

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Sure you can, they are a carburetor. They don't need an actual hat, just feed them right into the throats using rubber pieces like on the other side. For the R1s specifically you might want to ask some R1 experts what changes might be needed.

 

In the meantime, get your R1s working without a turbo. If you can do that then you are up for the turbo challenge.

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Having done bike carbs on an A-series, I can tell you that packaging will be your biggest issue. Unless you are RHD you'll find that brake booster/master are taking up some valuable real estate. Sure, multi carbs are "exotic and cool". So is a turbo. I agree with ggzilla about the draw though. My advice is bike carbs OR a turbo. I suspect making both fit together and work well is beyond the skill levels of 99.9% of Ratsun members.

 

Just my .02

 

zilla, got a link handy to your buddy's "Kompressed" A-motor you posted a couple years ago?

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theres your whole problem...

 

"i got challenged by a forklift..."

 

we dont care..

 

just carbs and a turbo arent going to make it any faster... itll probably get taken apart and never put back together to run..

 

get your priorities straight, get the car running or dont, and sell it to someone whos isnt going to ruin another datto..

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thanks

 

first hail then rain...piss on my party

 

im getting it more reliable as time goes

 

i use it for night job delivering pizza....8 hours shifts six days a week

 

never ran hot but my valve cover had a leak right in the front over the thermostat and the coolant was looking weird

 

i hosed the engine at the car was and a little water got in the valve cover and had a little milky grey going on...on the oil cap

 

got a 7.00 autozone gasket and put some seafoam in oil to get moisture out....thinned out the oil too

 

so i did a motorflush

 

damn oil pan gasket leaks a little now

 

too lazy to lift up engine and pull pan just yet so i put rtv blue silicone on the bad spot right next to the starter

(always the damn one spot thats hard to reach)

 

other than that (gaskets) i have a bad float on the hitachi carb and a issue with gas tank vent, cuz i cant put more than 3.5 gallons or like 15 bucks with of gas in it at a time

 

i like that tho....got character!

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i want performance without having to resort to dealing with Kameari or yellaterra

 

1000 for a cam

600 for double valve springs

500 for weber manifold

500 for adjustable cam pulley gear thing

1000 for pistons

 

i just would like to not feel so helpless at the stop light ....road rage from civics and scions

 

its peppy

 

hell it i could get it just a tad better than my 100hp 09 aveo with recalled coil packs...i'd be happy

 

i already have the pieces to build on:

 

the 63A dogleg five speed swapped by previous owner

had A12 swapped to A15

working on getting 81 200sx H165 in

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hey tendril....

if you need floor patches and quick fix to a panel check out POR15 catalog

 

they have these mesh pads in various sizes

 

almost like fiberglass mesh....u lay em down on the holes and paint por15 on top.. they harden and viola....not saying replaces steel but no more fred flintstone....can use on quarter panels too

 

see i got your back

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my dogleg 63A in my 81 b210 started a leak until i noticed my trans mount bolts were missing

 

i pissed off a homeless man by my job doing a burnout in front of the dumpster he lives behind and the next day i made a left turn and heard driveshaft hitting tunnel

 

lost may 2 oz of fliud before i noticed...it was pooling on the slave so at first that was what i suspected until i saw

 

the seal on the boot (rear extension assembly) or the expansion plug was leaky and had a pool of gear oil under the striker

 

now i hope to driveshaft doesn't need a balancing. i could make tires chirp in every gear but now the car doesn't hook up the same:

 

instead of a burnout at any grade level or surface from stop, the H145's got wheelhop and maybe burnout on an incline and a little roar in rear axle so maybe a bearing but pinion sounds ok ..no shavings in diff fluid but i was gonna swap in an H165 anyways with discs

 

clutch feels ok but not as crisp...got a borg warner 92002A kit from rockauto for 63A dogleg....need to check rest of bolts cuz he loosened my starter too...gotta check bell housing bolts

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Having done bike carbs on an A-series, I can tell you that packaging will be your biggest issue. Unless you are RHD you'll find that brake booster/master are taking up some valuable real estate. Sure, multi carbs are "exotic and cool". So is a turbo. I agree with ggzilla about the draw though. My advice is bike carbs OR a turbo. I suspect making both fit together and work well is beyond the skill levels of 99.9% of Ratsun members.

 

Just my .02

 

zilla, got a link handy to your buddy's "Kompressed" A-motor you posted a couple years ago?

people are such negative nancys, it really truely is not that hard

 

Spud, looks like your the .1% ! ! :D

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/42212-12-bagged-and-boosted-71-4dr-510/page__st__160

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Do the AMR500. On an A15 driven 2:1 it will do about 5 psi. Use a single 240Z SU-type carburetor.

It will wake up your A15.

 

The 4 motorbike carbs won't make it much quicker unless you keep it above 5,000 RPM.

 

With the AMR it will be quicker no matter what the RPMs. And a stock Datsun 210 H150 rear end will handle the power.

 

Add a 25HP nitrous shot too. For those quick emergency needs.

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Spud, looks like your the .1% ! ! :D

http://community.rat...0/page__st__160

 

Seriously...and im only 18, sure my stuff doesnt always work and isnt the cleanest in the world, but all it takes is motivation and the will power to tear into it.

 

If only .1% could do it.... Id hate tojust watch everyone else even work on there cars....

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^_^ I'm not quite ready to retract my statement yet. Spud's car is a rare exception and it appears to be well sorted. 0.1% is 1 in 1000. With just under 12,000 members, that would imply that there would be 12 finished, properly tuned turbo'd, bike carbed vehicles on the forum. Just saying.

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see this guy

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OxJToO0Mu4&feature=related

 

looks lkike he welded the air cleaner

maybe running turbo like the hot air duct for the a.i.s air induction system?

 

The top of the air cleaner needs to be welded on because at only 3 PSI that 12" wide lid has to contain the pressure of almost 340 pounds! The bent and folded exhaust pipe is laughably restrictive.

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