dp320's Project Status

[dp320]

Some delay, hunting season started for one.  The other thing holding me up is that I had to rebuild my fuse block.  Voltage checked fine but it turns out not voltage under load.  The bridge piece on the B side was too corroded, what a pain to remove, they are screws that have the top end crushed like a rivet.  Had to take a crappy Dremmel end bit in a drill press and mill the tops off.  This would be a job for a small end mill bit.  Now the headlights and tail lights operate but still more ringing out to do.

 

Also waiting on run channel rubber.

 

Anyone know of the source for the outside rubber strip seals on the roll-up window, and the inside felt pieces?  I have the old inside felts but not the clips.  I think I know what I need and have a source for the inside but any tips would be good.

[wayno]

Some delay, hunting season started for one.  The other thing holding me up is that I had to rebuild my fuse block.  Voltage checked fine but it turns out not voltage under load.  The bridge piece on the B side was too corroded, what a pain to remove, they are screws that have the top end crushed like a rivet.  Had to take a crappy Dremmel end bit in a drill press and mill the tops off.  This would be a job for a small end mill bit.  Now the headlights and tail lights operate but still more ringing out to do.

 

Also waiting on run channel rubber.

 

Anyone know of the source for the outside rubber strip seals on the roll-up window, and the inside felt pieces?  I have the old inside felts but not the clips.  I think I know what I need and have a source for the inside but any tips would be good.

 

I used roadster channel felt for the roll up door windows, it's the best option, everything else is a lot of work to install, but it is spendy, and you need two orders, because it takes all of a roadster order to do one 320 door.

If you go to the link below, in post #20, I have several part numbers of seals and channel felts from others that have been threw this already.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/38481-waynos-1963-l320-project/

[thomascain]

And here's a shot of the rebuilt carburetor.  The vac advance goes in at the base just to the right of the brass-looking slotted screw head where you can see a hole, I believe. 

 

Where did you get a rebuild kit? I am looking now.

[Conner]

I sent mine off to Chicago carburetor.  They did a nice job and it looks like new.  It was like $205, maybe plus shipping.  Though they sent it to a place on the west coast called J & J Carburetors who they said handles their more "exotic" rebuilds, if you want to try that company directly. 

[dp320]

Where did you get a rebuild kit? I am looking now.

 

Same place Connor did--Chicago Carb and they have you send it to a place in CA.

[wayno]

It would not surprise me if it wasn't that place that burrito lives close to, he told me that they rebuilt old stuff that no one else worked on, it's just north of Orange, CA.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I noticed a custom radiator cap in one of the pics. Is this because you couldn't find a stock cap? The stock cap has a long reach and you can get them at the auto parts store (NAPA), but it's not for a Datsun. I think the one I got was for a Corvair.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I keep waiting for someone to catch the Corvair bit, but I guess no one ...

[merlin]

 you mean the radiator cap for the air cooled engine?

  i have corvair rims for my 510.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You win the prize!

 

Corvair rims are 7" wide right?

[merlin]

 nope   i think these are 6   but i managed to get the 510 dog dishes on... look stock/appropriate.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

 nope   i think these are 6   but i managed to get the 510 dog dishes on... look stock/appropriate.

Cool.

[dp320]

Struggling with the brake lines, I think I have only one leaking flare fitting left.  What a pain that's been.  Just need functioning brakes for a test drive.

 

I purchased some window run channel from an ebay seller in Thailand.  $15 for a pair that are each 69" long.  Seems to be perfectly adequate stuff, went in just fine and the window is a tight fit.  It's the outside horizontal rubber that I still don't seem to find.  Not sure if that's been covered in a post, if it has I haven't seen it.

 

Figured out how to replace the heater valves.  It's really simple, just get about 18" of I think 3/8" rod and hammer them out from the back.  A 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD o-ring works just fine.  Of all the stupid Dremel tools I have, I actually had a little wire brush that fit just right into the inside of the valve to clean that up.  I'd tested my heater blower motor months ago and it seemed fine.  Now that it's installed it of course doesn't work.  So I'll have to remove the whole box again.

 

Got my moose, but elk season starts this weekend.

[BajaScout]

Nice build. Your starter looks different than the one on my 65. Is that stock or a substitution?

[dp320]

Nice build. Your starter looks different than the one on my 65. Is that stock or a substitution?

 

I presume it is, but who knows.  I have another one with an intricately bolted together square shaped solenoid.

[dp320]

The rumors appear to be true, that a 1990's Volvo S80 door seal will work for a Datsun 320.  I was informed a 1998 model would work. All I could find this past weekend was a 1994, which I went ahead and purchased anyway for $20 for all 4 seals.

 

The rear ones are the main ones you'll use.  You'll then need another 20" from just one of the front seals for each door.

 

 

 

 

Re-squeezed the metal insert that spans the seam together all along first.  Place the molded corner in the top rear corner to begin.

 

 

 

I did find out an unfortunate thing when I put the passenger door on.  The door isn't fitting.  I don't know if I heat shrank the frame somehow, it doesn't seem likely, or if it always was a poor fit.  I'm going to try some heavy hammering to move the hinges.

[twiztedintentions]

I've had my doors off and on a few times doing paint/body work, it literally took hours to get them aligned perfect and was much easier with 2 people, always seemed I would need a 1/8" adjustment and it would move a 1/4" lol.. The way they adjust is kinda weird, are u sure one of the "slide adjustment plates" isn't froze up or stuck inside the door or inside the jam part of the cab? Mine were stuck at one point and had to free them for proper adjustment.. Good luck!!

[dp320]

^{Hey Twizted,}

 

^{I'll have to take some photos but it's not the slide plates.  I didn't pay attention to how it was before, the door maybe wasn't right before I started.  I'm going to try to hammer in on the area where the plates are on both the door and the frame.  I need about 1/8" to get ANY clearance on the bottom latch end corner of the door.  A simple shift of the plates wouldn't do that.  I'm contemplating cutting the lower hinge and re-welding it at a different angle to take out some slack there too.}

 

^{I've scratched up some paint.  Worst case I'll have to trim the slight margin down and bend in a new edge. That would suck immensely.} 

[twiztedintentions]

Yikes!!! We'll either way good luck and be sure to post pics....many pics, love the way this truck is turning out!! Great work

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The rumors appear to be true, that a 1990's Volvo S80 door seal will work for a Datsun 320.  I was informed a 1998 model would work. All I could find this past weekend was a 1994, which I went ahead and purchased anyway for $20 for all 4 seals.

 

The rear ones are the main ones you'll use.  You'll then need another 20" from just one of the front seals for each door.

 

 

 

 

Re-squeezed the metal insert that spans the seam together all along first.  Place the molded corner in the top rear corner to begin.

 

 

 

I did find out an unfortunate thing when I put the passenger door on.  The door isn't fitting.  I don't know if I heat shrank the frame somehow, it doesn't seem likely, or if it always was a poor fit.  I'm going to try some heavy hammering to move the hinges.

Any good upholstery shop should have a bunch of samples to look at. I found Chevy truck door seals work just fine.

[dp320]

Any good upholstery shop should have a bunch of samples to look at. I found Chevy truck door seals work just fine.

 

I should post a picture of my local upholstery shop. :w00t:   The guy does good work but he is terribly disorganized.  If he has samples in his pile I'm not sure he'd ever find them.

 

But yeah, just like the run channel stuff, the door seals aren't really that special.

 

I am looking for what to use for the outside roll-up window seals.  Saw some discussion, wasn't clear what.

[dp320]

Well, that hurt. :crying:   The only easy fix I could come up with involved two sizes of hammers.  Large one to bang in the lower hinge, that gave me almost 1/8".  Small one to bend the edge over a little more.  So now I have some re-painting to do. 

 

Remaining tasks:

 

Repaint door fix

Install windshield

Purchase neoprene fabric to make heater box to vent tube.

Purchase and install window vent hoses

Drain differential and add teflon tap to drain plug to stop slow leak

Install exhaust properly, maybe have a shop do it

Install dome light and door switch, keep forgetting about this.

Get lexan for tray

Find roll up window outer seal

Figure out where to put outside mirror

 

Probably more stuff that I haven't thought of. 

[twiztedintentions]

I actually bought a pair of the window outer seals that u need off of eBay, let me see if I can track down where it came from... What have u done for the inside "fuzzy" seal that is on the piece of metal that screws to the door at the base of the window??

[dp320]

I actually bought a pair of the window outer seals that u need off of eBay, let me see if I can track down where it came from... What have u done for the inside "fuzzy" seal that is on the piece of metal that screws to the door at the base of the window??

 

Shoot, at one point I found some of that but then decided my old stuff was good enough.  I'll see if I can find that info again.

[dp320]

View through the rear window:

 

 

View of inside of door:

 

View of Engine:

 

Front right view:

 

Insured, got my WA collector plate today.  The upholstery guy just called too and said my visors were done.  The list of stuff is getting small.