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dp320

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I just got a replicated parking brake cable. I'd looked over some pulled from other trucks by NW Datsun Enthiusasts members but they were in about as bad condition as mine. After searching I found that Madison Power Supply would replicate one i sent in. Steve was very helpful.

 

Here's what I had returned:

 

brakecablereplicated.jpg

 

 

It won't need greasing anymore due to modern materials of construction but the zirks are still there as part of the fitting that clips to the frame. It's now installed on my truck.

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I just got a replicated parking brake cable. I'd looked over some pulled from other trucks by NW Datsun Enthiusasts members but they were in about as bad condition as mine. After searching I found that Madison Power Supply would replicate one i sent in. Steve was very helpful.

 

Here's what I had returned:

 

brakecablereplicated.jpg

 

 

It won't need greasing anymore due to modern materials of construction but the zirks are still there as part of the fitting that clips to the frame. It's now installed on my truck.

 

 

How much?

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  • 1 month later...

The replicated parking brake cable installed:

 

brakecableinstalled.jpg

 

The replacement rear brake hose (the part number I'll have to add later, it was the one mentioned in another thread). It uses a clip instead of a nut to retain it to the frame. I think I'll have to re-do this passenger side line, I missed a clip.

 

brakelinesrear.jpg

 

I'm embarassed to show my welding, I've hardly done any before. On the passenger side (right) the whole pan was nearly rusted out. I attempted to repair it but ended up just putting in a new sheet. I began with mig welding which was just too rough and too prone to burn through.

 

floorpanright.jpg

 

This drivers side has six patch pieces, not counting the two for the body bolts.

 

floorpanleft.jpg

 

The battery tray area.

 

batterytraym.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I began to deal with the rust on the rockers.  I knew there were many places I'd need to repair.  I took a twisted wire wheel to the passenger side (driver's side shown below) and got a surprise.  Simply running the wire wheel opened up a swiss cheese of small holes, mostly on the bottom and extending up about an inch from the outside edge. 

 

rockerbeforecut.jpg

 

 

After wire wheel and drilling out spot welds.

 

rockerbeforespotweldsdr.jpg

 

Cutting off the bulk of the rusted area.

 

rockeraftercut.jpg

 

Removed.

 

rockerafterremoval.jpg

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Replacing metal on a rusted stiffener.

 

bracerepairweld.jpg

 

I welded both the top and bottom of the floor pan patches, here is a before photo.

 

floorpanleftbeforbottom.jpg

 

Before photo of one of the body bolt areas, they all had to be essentially re-made.  Mine now have two layers of material above and below at least decently welded in.

 

bodymountrepair.jpg

 

I'll get some after photos eventually.

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I replaced the oil seals this past weekend. 

 

I used:

 

 

2 Wheel Seal
rear Inner, 2 Per Veh;oil Seals(baf); Years:1966-1966
BECK/ARNLEY 052-1575 $ 4.46

 

ordered from www.clickonautoparts.com/ since that was convenient.  They're listed as being for a 520.

 

This is an easy job made easier by the right tools, but easy even without.  Remove the hydraulic brake lines (which for me right now was very easy since I'm just putting the tubing back in).  You'll have to remove all your brake stuff, so you can pull off the emergency brake cable.

 

Unbolt the four bolts that hold the hub-axle on.  Pull the axle assembly out.

 

Here's where the right tools help.  I began trying to pull the seal out with various tools like a screw driver, a crowbar, etc.  Ended up using a cold chisel very carefully and yeah it came out and didn't score the inside where the seal seats.  But that sucked massively. 

 

Press the new seal into place.  I didn't happen to have the right thing around the shop to do this, got it in part way with a large socket.

 

At this point I went down to the O-Reily's (my nearby Autozone didn't have the items) and purchased an axle seal puller for $12.  I also rented a seal seating toolkit for $65, which was fully refunded when returned.

 

What a difference!  The minature pick-like seal puller worked great!  Tapped in both seals.  Returned the rented tool.

 

Repacked the bearings and that was it.  Thanks Dave and Jack for advising me to do this now.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I decided to go with asphalt-based undercoating instead of rubberized.  My reasoning (maybe wrong) was that asphalt-based would be more forgiving to application and to recoating.  I decided also against getting set up with the schutz applicator and to just use aerosol.  I wanted to be able to prepare an area and get it coated immediated.

 

I've tried both the Permatex ($4.99/can) and the 3M product #0881 ($8.99/can).  The 3M product is vastly superior.  The Permatex product ends up being like wax and scrapes off easily.  It also re-emulsifies when raindrops stand on it for just a while.  The 3M product cures and is very scratch resistant.  I expect the Permatex to get washed off the first time I drive the truck in the rain.  That will be OK, I'll deal with it permanently then.

 

Almost ready to get some body filler going.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Some photos of body work in progress.

 

I've been cleaning with a braided wire wheel. Dirty work, hard on the arms and shoulders.  Wear a dust mask for sure.

 

Inside of driver's side fender:

 

bodyworkfenderdriversin.jpg

 

Hood with putty on all the little chips:

 

bodyworkhoodwithputty.jpg

 

Passenger side fender, which I think I'll remove again and paint separately:

 

bodyworkfrontpassenger.jpg

 

Inside front:

 

bodyworkinterior.jpg

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Couple of notes: I decided not to do a whole lot to that part in front behind the fender, that has the large holes.  To do it properly would have required drilling out the spot welds and working it separately.  There was a replacement one up for sale on ebay but I decided this truck wasn't really worth going that route.  I wonder if anyone ended up buying it?

 

I didn't get a close up of the areas along the rockers or in the rear bottom corners.  For the rockers, to clean that up, I scribed a plastic putty knife into the shape of the rocker edge, bondo'ed it up good, then ran the knife along a good edge.  Sort of like repairing crown molding.  The bondo's maximum thickness was about 1/8", and only that thick in a very few places.

 

The rear corners had some rusted out areas.  I found that welding new metal over the top was easiest for me to accomplish.  This meant some bondo sculpting in the corners, again really not that thick, just enough to account for thicker metal and some welding lumps.  Some of the lumps are still visible but I'm not a pro, so as the Franklin saying has it, that "speckled axe is best."

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  • 1 month later...

Nice.  What color is that? 

 

I did my best to match my wheel powder coat to original but without getting a custom powder mixed.  It wasn't quite Pagoda Red (PPG 79913).  So I then matched the paint to the wheels by eye and came up with Hawaiian Red (PPG 72358).  Less yellow and more blue in it.  "How about a nice Hawaiian punch?"  (If you remember the ad.)

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I'm going to have to wait a few days and sand and repaint my fenders.  I'm having second thoughts about leaving some of the dents alone, the bright gloss of new paint changes how things look.  There are some imperfections in the paint, a couple of 1/16" spots where there must have been something oily.

 

rightfenderfaceon1.jpg

 

 

This photo, where the reflected light bends, shows one of the dents.  Like the fender was hit with the edge of something.  Maybe I'll just stay with my original plan and just leave those alone.  There's no perfecting these panels I don't think.  I'll still need to deal with some paint imperfections and repaint for that reason.

 

rightfenderrearprofile1.jpg

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