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Conner

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About Conner

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 06/27/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore
  • Cars
    2009 G37s 1968 2000 Roadster (project) 1964 L320 (project)

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  1. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    This is the British starter, seems to fit a lot of models from MGAs to Sprites from a range of years. I'm not saying I know this will fit, but it may. It definitely looks different than the one that came with my truck. https://mossmotors.com/starter-new-replacement-1?assoc=33716
  2. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Oh boy. I'm not wedded to keeping this truck positive ground. Just thought it would be easier to get it running as-is without changing too much, and I would like to keep the generator if possible. Can I just reverse the wires and switch to negative ground? There's no radio in the truck. Will the generator work with a negative ground set-up? Alternatively some of the British vendors (like Moss) sell starters that I have heard will work and I assume they are positive ground, and they also sell the external solenoid that looks similar to the stock on on the 320. That's another possibility. Steve--it is a 64 L320 and is a column shift. And yes, I'm the one who pulled together the engine bay grommets. Thanks for your help.
  3. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    I'm thinking my starter may have been replaced with a later, perhaps J13, starter with the integrated solenoid before I got the truck. The starter is a Mitsubishi MCA03-0 starter and has part 23300-B5010 cast into it near the nose. Also, when I removed and replaced the battery cable the nut required a 13 mm socket--another clue that this is from a later truck.
  4. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    I don't have anything that looks like that in my engine bay. I guess it's missing. When I got the truck the negative battery cable went directly to the starter and the positive to the engine block. The only other wire from the battery splits off the negative and runs over to the voltage regulator--it is the yellow wire connecting to the top left of the voltage regulator in the first picture in Post #21 above. Progress! I pulled the starter and removed all the connections and re-connected the wires and re-installed it. I also cleaned up the ground cable going from the underside of the starter to the frame. Now I have no trouble connecting the battery. No more sparks. However, I still don't have any power to anything in the truck with the battery installed. When I turn the key I get nothing, and no lights in the cab or headlights work.
  5. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Here are some pics of what I've got, wiring-wise. Unfortunately some of the harness and individual wires have overspray on them, so it isn't the clearest what is going where. I also noticed that a bunch of the wires that go to the front headlights are just wrapped up and tucked in behind the grill and don't connect to anything, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the headlights are working.
  6. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks everyone for your input on this. It's been very helpful. I finally got day on the the weekend that wasn't arctic conditions yesterday to try some of Wayne's suggestions. Generator was still disconnected, still had the sparks when trying to connect the battery cables to the battery. So I disconnected the battery cable from the starter. Bingo! No sparking when trying to connect the battery. I re-connected the generator and still good--no sparks when connecting battery cables to the battery. However, with the battery connected I got nothing. Headlights don't work, tail lights don't light when pushing the brake pedal, turn singles, horn--nothing. Any help would be appreciated. How to best chase down why the electrical system isn't working with the battery attached (and without the starter)? Also, any ideas on what is the starter's problem? It was rebuilt. Thanks again!
  7. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    No I just removed the bolts and wires connecting the starter and gen to the truck and then when I reinstalled them I did my best to return them to the way they were (took lots of pics before disassembly). But I will say that the condition of the truck when I got it was unknown and probably not stock, since it was a partial restoration that was many years old from the 90s. I don't know if the rebuilder may have reversed polarity either intentionally or otherwise. That's another variable. Thanks.
  8. Conner

    Engine build 66 411 with a J13

    Doesn't the SSS have the R16 (roadster) engine? Does the intake manifold from that engine swap over to a J13?
  9. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks for taking the time to post all those pictures, Wayne. They are very helpful. Looks like I'm going to need to spend some quality time with my wiring diagram tracing wires to figure this out. Just FYI my starter has a ground cable to the frame. It is located about 180 degrees opposite where the battery cable bolts to the starter--on the underside. You can kind of see it from this picture, which was taken from underneath the truck looking up and back toward the starter (you can see the oil pan in the foreground). The ground cable is mounted to the shiny bolt and snakes up and to the left to the frame.
  10. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    More information. Starter is grounded to the frame. With the generator still disconnected I swapped the battery around and tried to connect it negative-ground style, and still the same sparks from the battery.
  11. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks everyone. I got some time today to try to diagnose this problem. It looks like my generator is hooked up the same as yours, Wayne. The top-most connection is the red/white striped wire. The bottom-left is a white/black striped wire. The bottom-right is actually two black wires. Also coming out of the harness there is a yellow wire you can see resting on the generator above. Where should that connect? So I disconnected all three generator wires and made sure they weren't touching anything. Then I tried to connect the battery. No luck. Same popping and sparking. Question: the black wire grounds to engine block at the generator mount. Is that it or is there then a ground cable that connects the engine somewhere to the frame? If so, where should I look for that to make sure it is intact? Any suggestions? Thanks.
  12. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks to both of you for the advice. I will check the generator wiring and try disconnecting that and the starter to see what I get and report back. I do have a wiring diagram. Thanks.
  13. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Background: When I got my 64 320 it hadn't run in many years and the battery was dead. The battery cables were hooked up thus: Red cable--->Negative terminal on the battery--->Starter Black cable--->Positive terminal--->Engine block My impression this was a positive ground set-up. Last weekend I put a new battery in the truck because I'm finally ready to try to start it up. Starter and generator have been rebuilt and re-installed (carburetor also). I connected the red battery cable, which is connected to the starter again, back to the negative terminal. When I tried to connect the black cable, which is again connected to the engine block behind the generator mounting bracket, I couldn't attach the black cable to the battery without some small sparks, hissing, and popping, almost like a dirty weld without the bright arc. I disconnected the battery pretty quickly, afraid I was going to fry something. I should say I'm much more confident on the mechanical than the electrical aspects of these old trucks. Also I'm suspicious of the truck's wiring because it has definitely been spliced in a few places. Anybody have any idea what my problem could be? Thanks.
  14. Conner

    Anyone want to buy new 320 vent window rubbers?

    That version is 80, yes. They have another one which I believe is 94. When I poured some air cleaner to carburetor gaskets I used the 80 and the additive to lower the durometer to around 60, which seemed about right for those.
  15. Conner

    Anyone want to buy new 320 vent window rubbers?

    I have made simple parts out of Devcon Flexane. http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?family=Flexane%C2%AE%2080%20Liquid There is an additive you can use to lower the durometer to suit your application. http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?family=Flex-Add%E2%84%A2
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