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Conner

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About Conner

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Baltimore
  • Cars
    2009 G37s 1968 2000 Roadster (project) 1964 L320 (project)

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  1. Conner

    New 320 owner, 62?

    Your image looks good. There is some aliasing around the white boxes but it's hard to tell if that's because of the resolution of your jpg or just artifacts on your actual scan. Here's what I've got. It was drawn on a CAD program using my measurements from the VIN tag from my truck. Then I filled in the black in Photoshop. What I was suggesting was in Photoshop merge your scan of the cleaned up text onto this, which is a clean start on the bare badge.
  2. Conner

    New 320 owner, 62?

    Great idea, I will definitely buy one if they turn out. I have actually worked on this a bit and have drawn the tag on a CAD program, with dimensionally accurate and crisp black areas/clear voids for the text and stampings. If you'd like I'd be happy to share that with you and you can layer on the white text from your file. That may eliminate having to clean up the blocks for the stampings perfectly on Photoshop since you'd be starting with a clean edge. Also, the "L" should be stamped on the tag, not part of the blank. Finally, I have a vendor I used to manufacture the the Datsun 1200 valve cover badges I had made. If you're interested I can give you my contact there. They do really good work with space-age technology. Send me an email or PM for details if that's of interest.
  3. Conner

    Anyone want to buy new 320 vent window rubbers?

    I would definitely buy a set at that price. I would make sure they know that these are not a simple extrusion that is uniform, it changes shape significantly along the length. What do they need to provide a formal quote/contract for the work? Assuming they need one, do you (or someone else on here) have a good set to provide to them?
  4. Conner

    Datsun 1965 L320

    I think I saw that old Datsun truck (I think it was from the 1940s or 50s) for sale on CL in the Northern Virginia area several months ago. And yes the original asking price was around $25k. There was a walk-around youtube video but I can't find it right now.
  5. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    This is the British starter, seems to fit a lot of models from MGAs to Sprites from a range of years. I'm not saying I know this will fit, but it may. It definitely looks different than the one that came with my truck. https://mossmotors.com/starter-new-replacement-1?assoc=33716
  6. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Oh boy. I'm not wedded to keeping this truck positive ground. Just thought it would be easier to get it running as-is without changing too much, and I would like to keep the generator if possible. Can I just reverse the wires and switch to negative ground? There's no radio in the truck. Will the generator work with a negative ground set-up? Alternatively some of the British vendors (like Moss) sell starters that I have heard will work and I assume they are positive ground, and they also sell the external solenoid that looks similar to the stock on on the 320. That's another possibility. Steve--it is a 64 L320 and is a column shift. And yes, I'm the one who pulled together the engine bay grommets. Thanks for your help.
  7. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    I'm thinking my starter may have been replaced with a later, perhaps J13, starter with the integrated solenoid before I got the truck. The starter is a Mitsubishi MCA03-0 starter and has part 23300-B5010 cast into it near the nose. Also, when I removed and replaced the battery cable the nut required a 13 mm socket--another clue that this is from a later truck.
  8. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    I don't have anything that looks like that in my engine bay. I guess it's missing. When I got the truck the negative battery cable went directly to the starter and the positive to the engine block. The only other wire from the battery splits off the negative and runs over to the voltage regulator--it is the yellow wire connecting to the top left of the voltage regulator in the first picture in Post #21 above. Progress! I pulled the starter and removed all the connections and re-connected the wires and re-installed it. I also cleaned up the ground cable going from the underside of the starter to the frame. Now I have no trouble connecting the battery. No more sparks. However, I still don't have any power to anything in the truck with the battery installed. When I turn the key I get nothing, and no lights in the cab or headlights work.
  9. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Here are some pics of what I've got, wiring-wise. Unfortunately some of the harness and individual wires have overspray on them, so it isn't the clearest what is going where. I also noticed that a bunch of the wires that go to the front headlights are just wrapped up and tucked in behind the grill and don't connect to anything, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the headlights are working.
  10. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks everyone for your input on this. It's been very helpful. I finally got day on the the weekend that wasn't arctic conditions yesterday to try some of Wayne's suggestions. Generator was still disconnected, still had the sparks when trying to connect the battery cables to the battery. So I disconnected the battery cable from the starter. Bingo! No sparking when trying to connect the battery. I re-connected the generator and still good--no sparks when connecting battery cables to the battery. However, with the battery connected I got nothing. Headlights don't work, tail lights don't light when pushing the brake pedal, turn singles, horn--nothing. Any help would be appreciated. How to best chase down why the electrical system isn't working with the battery attached (and without the starter)? Also, any ideas on what is the starter's problem? It was rebuilt. Thanks again!
  11. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    No I just removed the bolts and wires connecting the starter and gen to the truck and then when I reinstalled them I did my best to return them to the way they were (took lots of pics before disassembly). But I will say that the condition of the truck when I got it was unknown and probably not stock, since it was a partial restoration that was many years old from the 90s. I don't know if the rebuilder may have reversed polarity either intentionally or otherwise. That's another variable. Thanks.
  12. Conner

    Engine build 66 411 with a J13

    Doesn't the SSS have the R16 (roadster) engine? Does the intake manifold from that engine swap over to a J13?
  13. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks for taking the time to post all those pictures, Wayne. They are very helpful. Looks like I'm going to need to spend some quality time with my wiring diagram tracing wires to figure this out. Just FYI my starter has a ground cable to the frame. It is located about 180 degrees opposite where the battery cable bolts to the starter--on the underside. You can kind of see it from this picture, which was taken from underneath the truck looking up and back toward the starter (you can see the oil pan in the foreground). The ground cable is mounted to the shiny bolt and snakes up and to the left to the frame.
  14. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    More information. Starter is grounded to the frame. With the generator still disconnected I swapped the battery around and tried to connect it negative-ground style, and still the same sparks from the battery.
  15. Conner

    Snap, Crackle, Pop

    Thanks everyone. I got some time today to try to diagnose this problem. It looks like my generator is hooked up the same as yours, Wayne. The top-most connection is the red/white striped wire. The bottom-left is a white/black striped wire. The bottom-right is actually two black wires. Also coming out of the harness there is a yellow wire you can see resting on the generator above. Where should that connect? So I disconnected all three generator wires and made sure they weren't touching anything. Then I tried to connect the battery. No luck. Same popping and sparking. Question: the black wire grounds to engine block at the generator mount. Is that it or is there then a ground cable that connects the engine somewhere to the frame? If so, where should I look for that to make sure it is intact? Any suggestions? Thanks.
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