Zeke- Aus- Li Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 love the colour. coming along nicely Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted May 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Borrowed the neighbor's hoist: Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 The crew that helped me lift the cab onto the frame: Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Left fender on: Both fenders on: Some red clash: 1 Quote Link to comment
twiztedintentions Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 The engine really looks good! I've been undecided on how I want to paint the block and all the bolt ons on mine. I don't wanna get carried away with too many colors but didn't want to run all one color either. Yours is broken up just about perfect, this truck is coming along very nice! This is Motivation for me! Thanks! :) Quote Link to comment
mrbigtanker Posted May 21, 2013 Report Share Posted May 21, 2013 All i can say is F%^$#in awesome,I love red.Very nice truck. Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2013 I ended up using Monstaliner in the bed. There are less expensive tintable options but for certain colors just adding your basecoat paint really isn't sufficient tint. Front. There's an outside chance I'll get the gas hooked up and be able to hotwire the engine this weekend. Quote Link to comment
thomascain Posted August 19, 2013 Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 How much did sandblasting and coating the frame cost? Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted August 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2013 How much did sandblasting and coating the frame cost? I paid $500 for the frame and four wheels. Wheels I definitely like powder coated. I think the Por15 would have been adequate for the frame. I wish I had a sandblaster, even a cabinet one. Lots of the time was spent using a wire wheel both bench and angle grinder. It made a huge difference in attitude having a clean and smooth-feeling frame to start bolting stuff back to. Probably worth it just for that. Quote Link to comment
thomascain Posted August 20, 2013 Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 That $500 was just to powdercoat? What did the sandblasting cost? Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted August 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2013 That was sandblasting, plus frame coated black, and wheels coated red. All at the same place, done in three days. Quote Link to comment
thomascain Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 That was sandblasting, plus frame coated black, and wheels coated red. All at the same place, done in three days. Holy cow. That is cheap. I was quoted $300 for just the wheels. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Beautiful truck. Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Got spark intermittently yesterday after I jumped the ignition wire and cranked it to see when the points contacted. I just used the old battery and old plugs. The battery was at about 50% charge, the plugs look OK. I didn't check any of the gaps yet but I expect they are all correct. Was so intermittent I couldn't really tell what the contact angle was. Oil leak from the oil filter area, hope that's just something to tighten. I'm stumped by where on the carburetor to run the vacuum advance to. Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 I don't know if this is very clear, but here is a pic of where mine connected. The wrench is on the vac advance fitting on the carb. Here is another shot where you can see the hard line coming in to the carburetor. Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 And here's a shot of the rebuilt carburetor. The vac advance goes in at the base just to the right of the brass-looking slotted screw head where you can see a hole, I believe. Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 Conner, the pictures aren't showing, at least for me. Around the base, nearest engine side, front, rear, outboard side of engine? Maybe I can find it. I looked with a mirror, figured it would be at the narrowest part for Venturi, have to admit though without my reading glasses on. I got the gaps set and the dist. locked down at 10° BTC while at home for lunch. Gave it a couple of cranks with the ignition on, didn't get it started yet. Maybe some starter fluid later on. What's the kickback or handle pop-out like when they turn over? Gentle or harsh? Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted August 22, 2013 Report Share Posted August 22, 2013 The line comes in on the head side, just at the base of the carburetor, a bit off center to the right. Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted August 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2013 I was concerned that if I didn't hand crank start that I might put a lot of time on the starter. I finally decided hand cranking wasn't getting me anything and just touched the starter wire to the hot wire. Amazingly it started immediately. I let it run for a few seconds then shut it down because I hadn't added water yet. I added some water and it started pouring out of the engine. Took me a while but I found a small hole near the oil pressure switch I'd somehow overlooked. A couple of quick calls to senior club members and I find out there's a block petcock valve missing. I don't recall seeing one with my engine (which wasn't in the truck when I purchased it). I rummage through my household plumbing junk and find an air hose quick disconnect fitting that seems to thread in. I make yet another of my daily trips down to the local McLendon's hardware store for a 1/4" NPT brass plug. It seems to thread in with no feeling like it's the wrong thread pattern. Hopefully not another old British pipe thread. Water holds and again with a quick touch of the starter wire it fires up. Loud, no exhaust hooked up yet. And still oil leaking out of the filter. I have a complete second filter so I'll have to take that apart and try to figure out what is causing the leak. My re-chromed gauge bezels should be ready today, so I can start the dash work finally. Individually the chrome cost is manageable, but it adds up quickly. I'm only doing the gauges and the tailights for now. Next would be the visor brackets. I have two extra pairs of the 3-hole visors I'm finally ready to sell. I'm pretty slow at this and single-threaded linear, even if I had the time to do multiple tasks I don't have the space. It's more of a mental issue really; since I don't know what I'm doing I can only focus on one thing at a time. Next up will be putting the doors back together, installing the seat, and finishing up stuff like headliner, door upholstery, the heater, windshield, Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Another engine photo, probably not much new other than I finally decided to paint my air filter housing in two colors: And a tailgate shot: 1 Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 I went to a local model shop and purchased several paint colors: a fluorescent orange to repaint the needles since the paint was flaked off, a gray for the midrange temperature, a blue for the low temperature and a phosphorescent white to try to touch up the lettering. Also, several fine brushes, a magnifying visor, and a can of matte finish to seal it up. Here is the instrument panel pre-installation: After installation: A close-up of the speedometer: Quote Link to comment
dp320 Posted September 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 I've also been working on the tailights and doors. I think it took three months for the tailights to be done at the plater. They were concerned about the deep pitting in the pot metal and weren't sure how to proceed. I had to intervene and say that I wasn't concerned about plating that wouldn't be visible deep inside the bezel. I believe the quality was excellent. More fun time at the wire wheel cleaning up the housings. White paint inside and black paint outside. Aluminum duct tape to prevent light bleed instead of the rusty metal tabs that didn't really fit in the replacement lenses. The old rubber ends are pretty shot so I am shrink-tubing them in place. The pigtails were cut long ago in the splice nightmare of the previous owner so I'll extend them and shrink-tube them also. A lot of the door fastener bolts broke on removal and I had to drill and tap several before painting. It's been quite a puzzle figuring out which fasteners go where, especially with several broken ones missing. Quote Link to comment
twiztedintentions Posted September 6, 2013 Report Share Posted September 6, 2013 Wow those gauges look great!! The lettering on mine are faded and worn... Wanna do another set?? Lol Quote Link to comment
Greiggy Posted September 8, 2013 Report Share Posted September 8, 2013 looking at this build... wow ... stunned amazing choice in colour and your attention to detail is second to none ! congrats ! Quote Link to comment
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