521 EI conversion and no start (HELP!!)

[haze]

i feel like a sucker asking but i am at my wits end and none of my regular fellas are able to poke thru this bitch with me. its been a little over a year since i began this project and i am finally at the cusp of driving the damn car

 

the engine tranny and clutch are all fresh rebuilds, professionally

 

i have have a weber 32/36 that i reused on the rebuild that worked fine when i took the engine out with none of the adjusters touched

 

i have a match box dizzy installed, matchbox facing towards the rad to save it from the heat off the manifold though i may have to flip it due to potential rad inlet hose issues.

 

i set the engine both BTDC 7 degrees and TDC

 

i eyeball centered the cap to the rotor making sure i had plenty of room either way to twist the dizzy

 

i have a 1979 620 brand new ignition coil in this thing

 

positive from the old ballast running straight into positive on the new coil

 

i wired the match box B to positive and C to negative and even properly grounded the thing to the body of the truck

 

i shocked the shit out of my self a dozen times making sure i am catching spark all the way to the plug

 

every time i turn the engine no matter where i position the dizzy the best i can get is a puff of flame or gas from the carb

 

i know this is probably bone head shit for some of you guys but i am not a mechanic just mildly handy and i am feeling like beating this bitch with a sledge hammer until she understands just how i feel

 

seriously, WTF am i doing wrong?

[datsunaholic]

Usually when it backfires that badly the timing is WAY off. Possibly the cam timing. Could be trying to fire with the intake valves open. Do a compression test to ensure you actually HAVE compression. Or you have the plug wires all mixed up.

[Laecaon]

Did you set it to TDC Exhaust or Compression stroke?

 

I bet you need to flip your wires, 1 with 4 and 2 with 3. Common problem, as you dont know if your engine is TDC without seeing the cam lobes.

[haze]

Did you set it to TDC Exhaust or Compression stroke?

 

I bet you need to flip your wires, 1 with 4 and 2 with 3. Common problem, as you dont know if your engine is TDC without seeing the cam lobes.

 

haha this is where i sound like a total retard because i dont know what you mean ... i set the thing via the rotor in accordance with with the timing marks so that at TDC my rotor is in the #1 position...when i plugged the dizzy in my engine was TDC so where the rotor fell was my number one, and yes i did set the wires 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise

[haze]

but thank you laecaon about flipping the wires i will probably just flip the dizzy being that i am having a hell of a time getting my vacuum advance line and radiator hose to share real estate, not to mention i am not getting full motion in my dizzy. i just hope the manifold doesnt fry my electronics that match box is over a hundred bucks new

[dattoboy70]

....best i can get is a puff of flame or gas from the carb

 

i was getting the same thing after a rebuilt engine but my dizzy was at 180 degrees out

[bananahamuck]

Put it at top dead center onn the compression stroke..It will only has compression every OTHER rotation.. stick finger or tube into open plug hole to make positive ,,when it starts hissing ,,bring it to 0 and pull distributor out and pedistal out..... is the shaft at 11:28 ..take a picture for us to see so we can help instead of guess at every possibility.

[Laecaon]

Flipping the dizzy won't do it. You must flip the wires.

 

 

 

The spark plug only fires every other revolution. You probably set the timing on the rotation where the spark does not occur. So what you are seeing as the rotor pointing at wire 1, is actually pointing at wire 4.

[wayno]

OK, you did not get it at the correct TDC, so now you have to start over, this is how I would do it.

Pull the valve cover off after you think you have it at TDC, are the #1 cylinder cam lobes pointed at 10am and 2pm?

If not then you need to turn the crank one complete turn, it needs to be at TDC with the cam lobes pointed at 10am and 2pm, then pull the distributor cap, where is the rotor pointed?

If you are standing on the drivers side, looking into the engine compartment with the dist. cap removed, the rotor should be pointing at about 4pm, sorta towards the driver side upper control arm, and that would be the position of #1 plug wire, 1-3-4-2 counter clockwise.

[haze]

hot fucking damn!!!!! the bitch started!!!sounds like shit and i cant fit the upper rad hose on anymore but it actually started!!!!! so now for phase 2 and i do mean immediately tell me fellas has anyone actually screwed up a machbox by facing it towards the manifold and where do i find info on that oil pump trick i dont feel like spending the rest of this perfectly awesome evening doing research when i could be unrolling some more lights and busting my knuckles open....my neighbors are going to think i am a tweaker!!!!

[haze]

thank thank you thank you laecaon. it was the wires i just had to switch 1 and 4, 3 and 2.... i am soooo having your man babies

[banzai510(hainz)]

IN post 4 you said you had it correct and it should have started.

 

As for the Matchbox near the manifold. Its a best case situation what you want. If neaer the manifold or toward the rad hose. Juwst depends which Matcbox u have as there were 2 of them. yes 2 of them and soem have different mounts wgich are about 20 degs off and people have 1 type and put on the other and they dont really work as you can not gt the timming in.

 

Oil pump trick? what like fill it with oil before your suppose to start it(Burn up motor!!!!!!) or move the dizzy one tooth.?????? Both are EZ.

 

[haze]

well ya'll thank you soo f-ing much for helping my get this beast started, drove around the block this afternoon first time in a year and a half!!! pulled the oil pump and did my damnedest to get the dizzy to line up proper to no avail because my rad hose just kept getting in the way of my vacuum advance so i flipped the thing around and now my matchbox is about 2 or so inches from the header. any advice on shielding this thing or wrapping the header? when my SPAL 16 inch pusher kicks on i do get a considerable amount of air around her i am just a little worried being that everyone recommends mounting the matchbox near the rad. has anybody ever actually melted one of these things? she is just a little L16 4 speed truck but i am hoping to do some summer road tripping with her.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I have seen them run both ways.

I never have run a matchbox myself. I use a Pertronix conversion. I like the vac adv out in the open.

Make sure you use a EI coil.

[haze]

well then hopefully my shit is good enough my electric engineer buddy told me as long as i am at least an inch off the header ill be fine (his job is to stress test stuff until it breaks) i m guessing i should prolly head down to the local pick and pull and find myself a spare (just in case)