Rough Idle

[wagoon]

Alright, I finally got my EI matchbox and 32/36 DGEV in, but now it idles a little rough. When I rev it's not as smooth, kinda feels like when I had the ole points in...sorta. Do I have a vacum leak somewhere? Can my pump be going bad? I tried to adjust the idle screw, I barely can notice a change, and the dizzy is at the max on the advance.

[metalmonkey47]

the dizzy is at the max on the advance.

 

That's a problem. You would be around 10 degrees static advance at idle, set with vac advance unplugged. Too much advance will cause detonation and at a certain extent, rough running.

[wagoon]

set with vac advance unplugged.

 

Where is this located at on the dizzy, the vac there? Adjust the dizzy with no vacum?

[metalmonkey47]

 

 

Where is this located at on the dizzy, the vac there? Adjust the dizzy with no vacum?

 

It's the rubber line that runs to the side of the dizzy from the carb. Any vacuum at idle on the dizzy will cause an odd reading for timing.

[wagoon]

So do adjustments plus timing without the vac line. I noticed my linkage is a little tight, so the spring speed idle screw on the linkage is squished, should I loosen that as well? Do I mess with the mixture?

[Laecaon]

Do 1 thing at a time.

 

Adjust your distributor. With the vacuum line disconnected. Adjusting the distributor is timing the engine.

 

After you get it running well enough, get the motor up to temp. Now adjust the mixture by screwing in, when you start hearing it run worse back up a 1/4 to1/2 turn. Make it sound the best.

 

Then set you idle speed. I have mine set keeping in mind the cold temp. Too high is a waste of gas, too low, and when cold the motor wont run well even with choke. But if you set it cold like when first started, you hot idle will be way too fast... Just keep fiddling with the idle speed, you will get it after a few attempts.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If the speed screww is turnen in say more than 2 turns when it first start engaging then the idle mixture is off or soemthing wrong? idle cut off selinoid? Maybe plugged?

 

also did you make sure when you installed the new distributor that it actuslly was RIGHT ON #1 plug wire and not inbetween say 1&3 plug wire????

The matchbox you got had the matching pedastal right? Why as there were 2 types and the pedastal were different. One is the same as the point type pedastal. the other is slightly off on the tang that holds it down

 

also on back side of dizzy is a 8mm bolt one can loosen the timming plate to get more adv or retard

[wagoon]

I did notice that the pedastal is inverted, meaning the markings are under instead of on top and not visible. It does adv/retard with adjustment of the 8mm bolt.

 

#1 was 180 degrees when I put #1 plug in. I originally placed it right of the rotor and it did not start, then rearranged the wires, #1 became left of the rotor and so on and it started right up. The idle was somewhat normal...sorta.

 

Then in went the weber, rough idle, makes the whole car shake, I think it may be the idle mixture running too rich. Possibly?

[banzai510(hainz)]

 

install of distributor.

 

oil /dizzy spindal will be at 11/28 at TDC

 

 

 

sometimes people put the pedastal on 180 off thus cap seems to be 180deg off.

[banzai510(hainz)]

whats those the timming gun say!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[wagoon]

Alright now it won't start, it turns over, but I can see exhaust smoke coming my crankcase filter. I noticed on the dizzy there was the 8mm nut under, and the 2 10mm, so which one does the timing vs the vacum?

 

I had it running, timed it and noticed it was 7 BTDC, which was to specs. the carb still ran like crap.

 

A little gas was seeping through the flange gasket, very minimal tho, capped off all the smog vacum lines, and the ones on the intake manifold. I might flooded it.

 

 

The 10mm bolts here on the dizzy are what then, if the 8mm hidden one is for adv/rtd?

 

 

[hobbes_the_cat]

If it ran ok before the carb swap then it's probably carb related in my opinion, especially if the timing is right on. Most carb problems are vacuum leaks. Make sure that the area weapping gas it tight, you probably have a vacuum leak there. If you can get it running spray starting fluid or wd40 at every area with a gasket, if the idle goes up you found a leak.

[wagoon]

Could the fuel pump go bad as well? Seems now there is no gas going through. I'll check for leaks once again, I just got to get it started. So the 8mm is for advancing/retarding, so how about the 10mm in the center of the dizzy, is that the vacum adjustment?

 

What material is recommended to use to make gaskets for the carb? Is sealant needed?

[.sunlover]

Could the fuel pump go bad as well? Seems now there is no gas going through. I'll check for leaks once again, I just got to get it started. So the 8mm is for advancing/retarding, so how about the 10mm in the center of the dizzy, is that the vacum adjustment?

 

What material is recommended to use to make gaskets for the carb? Is sealant needed?

 

no sealant! fuel will break down sealant. the 8 and 10 do the same thing (adjust ignition timing). If you can't get enough adjustment when 1 is at the end of it's adjustment, loosen the other and get that extra bit. I try to set the 8 with the 10 in the middle so as the chain wears, I can easily tweak it back into place without reaching blind for a bolt.

[hobbes_the_cat]

Could the fuel pump go bad as well? Seems now there is no gas going through. I'll check for leaks once again, I just got to get it started. So the 8mm is for advancing/retarding, so how about the 10mm in the center of the dizzy, is that the vacum adjustment?

 

What material is recommended to use to make gaskets for the carb? Is sealant needed?

 

Fuel pumps can go bad or dirt can block fuel lines. You didn't run out of gas right? Don't worry about gasket material till you find a leak and try to tighten the area first, sometimes that's all it takes.

[wagoon]

I did run out of gas the 1st time, primed up the line and waited, and had a hard time starting. This time with more added gas, I primed it and was not starting, like no gas is going through or something. I'll change out the hoses at the beginning of the fuel rail to carb, and possibly the fuel filter line.

 

I need to do the timing over since I moved the dizzy, I'll put marks on it this time.

 

 

[wagoon]

Was working on her for a few minutes curious to see if the fuel pump was good, sure enough we are all good. But here is a sound clip of what it sounds like. Is it possible that on the dizzy, after all the adjusting the rotor can be position to a new #1 plug, say going to plug 3, and so on. Should I advance each plug 1 spot? Or just pull out the dizzy and redo it?

http://youtu.be/F1eYc0Am2zQ

[banzai510(hainz)]

MY vid didnt work??????????

 

Its like when you meet a girl in the bar and see says ,Shes kinda seeing soemone? She is or she isnt.

 

same with this. Its on #1 plug wire or it isnt.

 

put on TDC line everything up as suppose to be and where the rorotr locks down . YOU, YOU an only YOU will make that #1 on the dist cap. the go 1 3 4 2 counter clock wise fire order.

 

if thats correct then ck your valve lash.spark plugs.

[wagoon]

The video is dark, nothing to see but hear, so you will have to crank it the volume on your Bose speakers. Valve lash? Wheres that at?

[hobbes_the_cat]

There is a couple how to write ups in "how to" on valve lash and I am pretty sure any Haynes or Chilton manual will show how. If you don't have a manual, STOP, and go get one. Timing and valve lash are very improtant with these motors. I'm not sure, but by the sound on your vid I would say timing is not right, but nobody is going to be able diagnose your problem just by listening to a vid. Datsuns are often a learning experience in basic mechanics, the more you read and understand the basics of how these motors work, the easier it will be to diagnose the problem.

[wagoon]

The sound is while it is being turned over, it's not starting in the vid. I do have a manual and I'll read up on it later after work.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Watch this when you get your manual The WHOLE THING.

 

 

couple datsun guys never done a motor saw this and got their motors going

[wagoon]

Samurai-Hainz, after watching that, it's starts to make sense. Damn, what was I thinking. I'll get back to you on my progress.

 

Here are some of my old books from my 1st dime.

[wagoon]

Alright heres a qwick update: I took out the Matchbox for now and back went was thr points cuz I got no spark. Its still wont start but wants to start with the key still in on the on position; once let go it dies. Whats that all about. Got new plugs they were black as coal. So thats it so far. Waiting for plugs to arrive.

[datzenmike]

 

I had it running, timed it and noticed it was 7 BTDC, which was to specs. the carb still ran like crap.

 

 

 

7 BTDC is NOT to spec. The proper timing advance for any L series is 12 degrees BTDC