Rough Idle

[LeviGideon]

This may seem like an obvious solution, but I had a similar problem once, and it turned out that I had gotten the 3rd and 4th wire mixed up on the distributor cap. It would turn over and would sometimes start, and it would be really rough.

[banzai510(hainz)]

blk wht wire goes to the ballast resisitor (ON wire)

the blk/blu wire goes to the+ side coil(Hot START WIRE)

the blk/grn goes to the other side of the ballast resisitor(completes thru the ballast when ON)

for you your loosing 12volts when key goes back to ON. its either not hooked up right or the baalst resistor is open,

 

this is a simple fix. if wired correct ck the connection under the steering wheels. wiggle the connector

[banzai510(hainz)]

put key to ON and then ck with a voltmeter and see if you have 12 volts at the ballast resistor then measure at the +side coil you should see like 6 volts if this is the stock point coil and ballast resistor set up.

 

thats a funky looking distributor mount set up. I just looked at the photo on that.

 

this is a simple fix, maybe somebody local can look at this.

 

 

you been swaping coils and removing or using the ballast resisitor so make sure you use the correct stuff with the set up your going to use.

 

 

a weber carb set up if you try to start the carb should fillup with gas and youll see gas being squited in the main barrel. if NOT then there is no gas. look at the needle valve or float but ck the out put of the fuel pump. Or ck to make sure the intake hose is not cracked right before the inlet nipple on pump.

 

7-12deg should be enought to get started on the timming.

 

soemtimes 510s your get a loose connector at back of key switch. I just wiggle it.

[wagoon]

Damn, Hainz, you must be a 510 genius. Wiggled the wiring around the ignition, switched the wires to the ballast, set the points, and wala!

 

It's timed 12 degrees, now I need to adjust the carb and I have to mess with it for a bit, but it was a relief to get that biach started! It's idle is a little high though:(

 

Now back to the Matchbox, I noticed somewhere on the boards it's a good idea to ground the dizzy along with the C- wire? So having 2 grounds, am I correct.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If running just leave it alone right now.

 

Take some soom good photos if the ignition wires and such

 

going by the first photo I see a MSD Blaster coil and a Ballast that doesnt looked hooked up at all.. However since you already have a Blaster 2 coil and the Match box that set up should work.

 

a matchbox set up is

blk/wht (ON wire) some timespeople hook up the blk/blu(START) wire to this also. and B of match box to the + side coil

 

and C of the matchbox goes to - side coil

 

so 3 wires at the +side coil

1 wire at the - side coil.

ballast not used

 

 

Now back to the Matchbox, I noticed somewhere on the boards it's a good idea to ground the dizzy along with the C- wire? So having 2 grounds, am I correct.

 

WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!WRONG!!!!!!!!!!! the - C wire is what switches on/off like a swtich when the pronges inside line up inside the distributor.

 

if grounded it wont fire.

 

all the mean ground is a wire from the dizzy housing to the cassis of the car/block. I dont think it needed myself. I think most is the module gets corroded on the back side but I could be just dreaming. I have never run a matchbox myself.

[Silky_Johnson]

Alright heres a qwick update: I took out the Matchbox for now and back went was thr points cuz I got no spark. Its still wont start but wants to start with the key still in on the on position; once let go it dies. Whats that all about. Got new plugs they were black as coal. So thats it so far. Waiting for plugs to arrive.

 

I had a similar problem when I was hooking up my Pertronix kit. My wiring wasn't connected right, so I'd turn the key and... nothing. But when I let the key off and gave it gas, it would run (albeit very poorly). I drove the car around the block a couple of times without spark. It didn't have any power, but it made it on what I think was compression alone. Once I even forgot to attach the distributor cap, and I was able to get it around the block that way too. It was a learning process...

[banzai510(hainz)]

Im confused what you have in there right now?

 

Points? refer to post 27 but use a stock point coil

 

Matchbox?refer to post 30 use the Blaster 2 coil, NO ballast

 

 

high idle might be choke or the speed screw adjustment.

 

Maybe the mixture adjustment also and turn the dizzy to say 10 deg.

[wagoon]

_{I'm running points, I had to find out if my L16 was even going to start and hoping I didn't kill the timing chain or the motor itself. Kinda got in desperate mode.}

 

_{Plus, I thought I fried the Matchbox for some reason, it was just running like crap and suddenly stopped, I also ran out of gas. I come to realize I attempted to time it not knowing how to actually time it correctly since I am used to lining up crank shaft pulleys and camshaft to get tdc on my e30.}

 

_{It's a learnign experience for me and I just have to go through the emotions of owning a classic Datsun. I figured with only 51k on a 72' this should still have more life in it. It was sitting in the Bay area in the cold and rain for over 2 years corroding away.}

 

_{Yeah, like I said, I want to throw the Matchbox and call it a daycuz I have work on the next thing.. I'm not a big fan of the points.}

[banzai510(hainz)]

hopefull the matchbox you have comes with the matching pedastal . Hopefully you got it as a unit. Line to TDC as in vid and put it in and assign the plug wires and it better be close to right on at TDC. Look at the prongs.

 

PS alot of matchboxes are worn out also bushing wise.

 

 

what i would do is install it and see if you get spark from the center coil , by pulling the center wire from the dizzy ca and place near chassis. it should have a spark with a snapping sound. Should work

 

But remeber points want a point coil and use the ballst resisitor. If you got it running call it good for now and fix other things.

[wagoon]

hopefull the matchbox you have comes with the matching pedastal . Hopefully you got it as a unit. Line to TDC as in vid and put it in and assign the plug wires and it better be close to right on at TDC. Look at the prongs.

 

PS alot of matchboxes are worn out also bushing wise.

 

 

what i would do is install it and see if you get spark from the center coil , by pulling the center wire from the dizzy ca and place near chassis. it should have a spark with a snapping sound. Should work

 

But remeber points want a point coil and use the ballst resisitor. If you got it running call it good for now and fix other things.

 

Qwick update, points dizzy is running, for some reason the points keep self adjusting or maybe my pts dizzy is so wobbly. It's like once I start it puurrr like a kitten, then after a I restart it, the rev is not as smooth-timing or the points? I find out that the point gap is off and I have to readjust. I know I tightened it, and the gap is right cuz I turn the crank to see it open and close. Is it the Dizzy it self?

 

I'm going to throw back on the Matchbix attempt once more and see how that goes now that it is starting. I'll keep you posted. On the dizzy, do you need to adjust the airgap on the matchbox?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I'm going to throw back on the Matchbix attempt once more and see how that goes now that it is starting. I'll keep you posted. On the dizzy, do you need to adjust the airgap on the matchbox?

 

NO.

[wagoon]

The matchbox finally started and it sounds really good. Now the problem is, it starts perfectly, then it wont, maybe a loose wiring of some sort. Do I need a new cap, and rotor, or could it be wiring somehow. I was just glad it started :thumbup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

I think I covered everything you needed to know.

Correct coil installed?

all connections good?