510 Lower Control Arms...Converted To Adjustable w/Spherical Ends

[denis.drc]

Ran into a binding bushing issue when trying to adjust caster.

Didn't feel like spending $200+ on a kit, soooo....

 

I was able to get LOTS of caster angle using these. (You will still need adjustable tension rods of course..)

 

Once I get some bugs figured out and do a slight redesign (additional thread engagement, etc..), I will be happy to make these for any members who show interest.

I'm not looking to get rich doing this, just want to help out the community and hopefully be somewhat compensated for my time :rolleyes:

 

Initial measurements..

 

Now the fun begins..

 

A few welds..

 

A little paint..

 

Made a few bearing/spherical sleeve adapters..

 

Finished product..

[thisismatt]

May I recommend a tube adapter instead of just a nut for the female end? :sick:

[Sinnful]

I was thinking the same thing. Even tho you tig welded the nut in the LCA, I can see the nut ripping out of the LCA

[Dime Dave]

That is how our adjustable LCA's are made. They have a threaded tube that is welded into the LCA plate to attach the rod end hardware.

 

We have even sold DIY kits to folks wanting to make their own adjustable LCA's from the factory ones.

[denis.drc]

Thanks for the advise guys. I truly appreciate your concern for my safety.

I'm hopeful that 5/8" of "3/4" grade 10" thread engament welded 360* around and on 2 axis, should hold up long enough for me to start my "planned" front suspension conversion.. B) Though this is a first prototype and I am very open to redesign..if I end up staying with this set-up long enough.

[Tristin]

Nice project! If you wanted to start doing these for members, do you have a set you could make first and send to us, then we can swap them out, and send you back our core? I wouldnt be able to have my car down long enough for shipping both ways and the time it actually takes to make them.

[denis.drc]

That is how our adjustable LCA's are made. They have a threaded tube that is welded into the LCA plate to attach the rod end hardware.

 

We have even sold DIY kits to folks wanting to make their own adjustable LCA's from the factory ones.

 

Dave, I like your LCAs. Is that a recent re-design or did I forget what they look like? (Been a while since I've visited your site..)

I love the turnbuckle adjustment in the middle. You make a truly quality product sir!

[denis.drc]

Nice project! If you wanted to start doing these for members, do you have a set you could make first and send to us, then we can swap them out, and send you back our core? I wouldnt be able to have my car down long enough for shipping both ways and the time it actually takes to make them.

 

Thanks for your interest, tristinGrind! Yes, if I get a few requests for these, I will get a couple of extra sets of LCAs for modding to minimize any potential downtime for all your beloved Datsuns.

[Sinnful]

Just curious, please do not take this as dogging you.

 

What is the tensile strength of the heim joint?

 

Is it teflon lined?

 

What material is the spacers made out of?

 

Are the I.D. of the spacers drilled metric?

[Sinnful]

Thanks for the advise guys. I truly appreciate your concern for my safety.

I'm hopeful that 5/8" of "3/4" grade 10" thread engament welded 360* around and on 2 axis, should hold up long enough for me to start my "planned" front suspension conversion.. B) Though this is a first prototype and I am very open to redesign..if I end up staying with this set-up long enough.

 

Im also concerned about the other drivers on the road. As if those broke going down the road what it could do to you and another person on the road.

[denis.drc]

What is the tensile strength of the heim joint? 25,000+ lbs (Chromoly Steel)

 

Is it teflon lined? No

 

What material is the spacers made out of? 6061-T6 (70 series)

 

Are the I.D. of the spacers drilled metric? YES. Absolutely no freeplay.

 

Please rember these are all automotive grade components, not OSH/HomeDepot/etc.. houseware items.

 

After I have some significant miles on these parts, I will make changes as needed.

 

Again I appreciate your concern for me and others, but I have my doubts about a 2000lb car tearing 5/8" of threads out of a 3/4" bore, grade 10 nut, under normal use.

I measured how much an average spherical end engages a threaded tube (once it's adjusted for desired length). I noted about 5/8" - 1". Additionally, most rod ends have approx. 1.75" of thread to start. Consider a 1/2" - 5/8" jam nut taking part of that, plus about 1/2" of exposed thread unused when you achieve your desired arm length, that leaves you with ~3/4" of useable thread to go into whatever threaded component is welded into the control arm, be it a nut or a threaded tube. I'm only 1/8" away from that potential maximum.

 

That said, I can see how under a MAJOR impact a threaded component of any type may fail. But under that kind of force, I feel a control arm failure will be the least of your worries.

 

Lastly consider how many members are using TIE ROD ENDS in place of tension rods. I feel my component is built with much more consideration and strength than many other DYI components..Not to metion how many drivers out there are using eBay brand garbage components made of inferior, who-knows-what quality metal & other components.

[INDY510]

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All I want to know is what kind of wheels are you tucking in your avatar picture???? ....... . .. cause damn ........ B)

[denis.drc]

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All I want to know is what kind of wheels are you tucking in your avatar picture???? ....... . .. cause damn ........ B)

 

Just some plain old XXR 513s

[Uber Deaf One]

Lastly consider how many members are using TIE ROD ENDS in place of tension rods. I feel my component is built with much more consideration and strength than many other DYI components..Not to metion how many drivers out there are using eBay brand garbage components made of inferior, who-knows-what quality metal & other components.

 

Word. It always makes me laugh when forum people start questioning the way people do things like this... I see some SKETCHY stuff on an almost daily basis. The way you did your adjustable LCAs is perfectly fine lol. In fact that's exactly how I would do mine if I had to do it myself. Just to make it easy though, I'm ordering Dave's kit eventually lol

[Duke]

Lastly consider how many members are using TIE ROD ENDS in place of tension rods. I feel my component is built with much more consideration and strength than many other DYI components..Not to metion how many drivers out there are using eBay brand garbage components made of inferior, who-knows-what quality metal & other components.

 

:wacko: I have used tie rod ends for the T/C rod pivot on my car for the past 3 years and have had absolutely zero issues. The idea originally came from the BRE suspension setup, and I have seen it on many other 510 race cars. I considered different options before doing this mod but I found this to be the best for suspension geometry and ease of fabrication.

 

On your LCA's I would recommend stripping the plating off of the nuts before welding and perhaps using a thicker nut (not just the jam nut shown) or even a tube adapter for the female end. Rule of thumb is that the thread engagement of a bolt should be at least 1X the diameter of the bolt for full strength.

[Dime Dave]

The inner tie rod end (rack end) has been used successfully for years on the chassis end of TC rods. In fact most of the early rack ends used by racers were out of an MG Midget. The rack ends that folks use today are from cars that are significantly heavier than the MG and much stronger. FutoFab uses a rack end from a late model Volvo with power steering.

 

As Duke says, using a rack end for the TC rod pivot has a solid history with racers. I like it because it uses less bolted connections and offers a closer to stock pivot location than other TC rods that use bolt-in brackets for a rod end to pivot on. Being closer to the stock pivot location doesn't shorten the arc radius of the TC rod as much. That in itself helps maintain more stabile suspension geometry over the full range of travel.

[troyt]

Lots of ways to do it, we welded on a threaded tube adapter.

 

[newto510]

what is the ID of that misalignment spacer you fabbed? I would like to build my own but i would need to order one of those, i found a few places that make custom ones. thanks

[Gabriel Tyler]

Denis! Nice work. We made a very similar setup for our first Formula D car.

 

Not at all knocking your work and you didn't ask for my opinion, but those T6 aluminum alignment spacers WILL mushroom over time. 12 years ago when we first started making parts, I used aluminum alignment spacers. Not for long. They just can't handle the stress in the long run and get all wobbled out inside and squished from side to side.

 

If you re-make a set in steel or stainless you'll be golden.