B210 front end lowering

[RedBanner]

S30, 240-60-80z front springs are a direct swap into a b210, if 210 springs are the same lenght itll work for you too

[datzenmike]

What is inside your struts right now,... the factory valving or is there already a replacement cartridge in there?

 

If you have the factory valving you can simply empty them out and refill with thicker hydraulic oil. Thicker oil is harder to push through the valves and will firm up the damping.

 

Cutting one coil will increase the spring rate... which is desirable on a lowered vehicle as you will have, and need, less suspension travel on a lowered car. For about $10 a side you can make your ride height adjustable similar to coil overs.

[datsunfreak]

O/K, soo I have driven my 210 a few miles now,, and I notice alot of body roll.

 

Stock soft springs and a wimpy front sway bar will do that. ;)

 

So,, does front camber change if its lowered by cutting coils?

 

Any time the control arm moves, camber changes. Adding "bumpsteer" spacers under the strut will lessen the camber change from lowering. But the camber change in a 2-3" lowering isn't drastic, and barely even noticeable. Nothing like on a mini-truck. ;)

 

Would 2" be ok for the stock replacement kyb struts?

 

Likely not. It's going to bottom out on big bumps. You really need to shorten your struts, or swap in shorter struts (like 280ZX struts).

[datsunfreak]

O/K, soo I have driven my 210 a few miles now

 

Also, not to be picky, but don't ever call it a 210. It's a B210, and here in the US the 210 is a completely different car. When asking questions, selling/buying parts, or anything else that is model specific, you'll either get the wrong parts or wrong answers if you say 210 when you have a B210.

[datzenmike]

 

Any time the control arm moves, camber changes. Adding "bumpsteer" spacers under the strut will lessen the camber change from lowering. But the camber change in a 2-3" lowering isn't drastic, and barely even noticeable. Nothing like on a mini-truck. ;)

 

 

I think what you mean is bump steer spacers will counteract 'bump steer' not camber. For that, either a camber plate must be added to the top of the strut tower or the LCA must be lengthened or shortened.

[datsunfreak]

I think what you mean is bump steer spacers will counteract 'bump steer' not camber.

 

No, I meant camber. ;)

 

But yes, they are designed to fix bumpsteer, and usually do that quite well. :thumbup:

 

 

Any time you change the angle of the lower control arm you (mildly) effect camber, track width, bumpsteer, caster, toe, etc.

[datzenmike]

Yup, I should have thought about it more. I was thinking the angle of the strut tilts inward at the top as the body lowers.... and it does, but this is a triangle made up or strut tube, body and LCA. Changing the ride height changes everything. This is fascinating stuff that I never really got into when driving my 620. It's only since getting my 710 and putting Maxima struts on it that this had an application.

[ofg]

Im talking about a 210. 79 model,, the in between year. I think currently it has stock struts, but I do also have a pair of kyb replacement cartridges that came with the car. Its got to get lowered sometime anyway, because soon it gets some flares, and wider meats.

[datzenmike]

You can dismantle them, cut the bottom spring support off, grind the old weld down smooth, trim 1/2 or 1 coil to stiffen the rate, replace the fluid with 20W motorcycle hydraulic front fork oil and assemble. Now the spring can settle lower on the spring mount. To hold the spring mount on the strut tube and make it adjustable use split collars. I did my Maxima struts this way for less than $50.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/24412-my-76-710-goon/page__st__60

[datsunfreak]

Im talking about a 210. 79 model,, the in between year.

 

Sorry, didn't notice you were hijacking someone else's thread. Thought you were the OP. :lol:

[ofg]

Whoa! There's at least 1 on every forum and looks like I found him! I figured my questions and comments were pertinent. But hey now I'm a hijacker! I'm outta this one. Thanks for the enlightenment!

[datsunfreak]

Whoa! There's at least 1 on every forum and looks like I found him!

 

The one that gets butthurt way too easy? Yes, you found him many years ago... :rofl:

 

 

I figured my questions and comments were pertinent.

 

Questions about your 210 in someone else's thread about their B210? Sure, that seems relevant...

 

 

And you'll also notice that I answered each and every one of your questions before having a tiny bit of fun with you, so before you paint me with that "flamethrower" brush...

[bosifus]

You can dismantle them, cut the bottom spring support off, grind the old weld down smooth, trim 1/2 or 1 coil to stiffen the rate, replace the fluid with 20W motorcycle hydraulic front fork oil and assemble. Now the spring can settle lower on the spring mount. To hold the spring mount on the strut tube and make it adjustable use split collars. I did my Maxima struts this way for less than $50.

 

http://community.rat...on/page__st__60

 

Where did you pick up the split collars? Are there any particular brands that are best or I should stay away from? Im a total newb here so I hope these aren't stupid questions.

[RedBanner]

Here come the choo choo chuga chuga chuga chuga open wide

[bosifus]

Thanks!

[ggzilla]

A better sway bar will do far more than different shocks/strut inserts (unless of course your shocks are shot now). The lowering will help too with the body roll.

 

Z-car front springs won't fit, although a lot of guys use 280ZX rear springs cut down. 210 uses 100m diameter springs, while Z-car front uses 150mm dia. springs.

 

The stock 210 springs are linear, so cutting them won't increase the spring rate like it would do on non-linear springs.

 

Camber will change for the better when you lower the car. Stock setting is positive camber. What you want for cornering is negative camber.

[bosifus]

The shocks and struts are in really bad shape in mine. I was considering the camero shocks for the rear and looking to see if I can fix the struts and increase the dampening with some heavier oil as well as lower the front with the collars. The big concern I have is if I should cut the springs at all (didn't know they weren't progressive rate. Thanks.) and if I do how much to achieve a better balance with the front end without bottoming the car out or making the ride harsh.

 

I am planning to put a set of 15's under it after I get the rest sorted out and that should help improve the handling with a better profile tire. The stock size is on there now and they are pizza cutters.

 

The sway bar is a good idea. I was looking at mine and the bushings are shot. Is there a swap that will fit or a source for aftermarket bar? I should start another thread Im hijacking the hell out of this one.

[king bee66]

i know alot of guys cut the springs on 210s, i personally would never as i tend to bottom out even at the stock hieght.

[Kramer1981]

Ok, because I have built race car chassis before, although never with struts, I will share some hints. Cutting springs is crude as hell. Move the spring cups down on the strut. Collars or welding, either way. My suggestion is use the collars to set the ride height, make a mark on the strut tube, and SLOWLY weld the cup back on. Heat is bad here. Thicker oil in the struts is a better way to increase dampening. If you deem necessary, get new performance cartridges OR if you are brave alter the valving by either decreasing the number and/or size of the holes. Not exactly recommeded for amateurs.

 

You can buy adjustable sway bars for roundy round race cars, never tried to adapt one to a car as small as a datsun, so IDK.

 

A trick I learned with one of my MoPars to corner better was simple. As those cars have adjustable torsion spring front suspensions, I played with ride height alot. The higher I went the more the body roll, BECAUSE i was touching down on the big rubber bumpstops earlier when it was lower.

 

I lowered the bumpstops on my Dodge and I had good ride height and pretty good handling even with no sway bar and a 900 pound engiine/trans combo. I used microcellulose urethane bumpstops from chassistech which are progressive. No harsh ride. I set them about 3/16ths above the lower control arm at ride height. Decent ride and good cornering, and remember this car weighed 4000 pounds. Ditto on the rear bumpstops, maybe give them a little more clearance if you have alot of frequent passengers or carry lots of tools and spare parts.

 

HOWEVER, if you have a spool/posi/lincoln locker, almost as soon as you hit the bumpstop, the rearend tries to come around if you have poor rear traction, IE wet, tires too skinny, too light in the rear, whatever.

 

Another cool MoPar trick is the pinion snubber, same benefits as slapper bars but hidden beneath the car so nobody sees it. IF there is enough interest I will install one on my car and provide photos. That means ten people asking not one or two.

 

BTW I dont care much about the highjacking, if people are getting their questions answered and everyone is reasonable about it.

 

If your front struts are freaking terrible, I guess it would be possible to buy a trailer leaf spring from tractor supply and cutting the main leaf in two and using it in a quarter elliptical fashion to stiffen the suspension. cut end of spring bolted to frame and eye end of spring bolted to a welded DOUBLE SHEAR mount on the lower control arm. DOUBLE SHEAR meaning both sides of spring eye supported.

 

Single shear means supported on one side, which would require chromoly or some other fancyass raw material most of us cannot afford.

 

Any questions?

[80datson]

Pics of that mopar?

[bosifus]

Thanks for the pointers I really appreciate it. I'll give the collars a try and forgo cutting the springs altogether. I wonder how much I can get away with lowering using the stock cartridges. A few inches maybe or is that overly optimistic?

[80datson]

If you go more then 2 ½ inches. It will be likely that you will bottom

Out on big bumbs

[ggzilla]

See Lowering the spring perch. With stock 210 struts, I recommend max 2" lowering. But with these collars it is easy to try different heights.

 

[Kisor]

There is no problem with cutting springs. Use a cut off wheel or saw, just don't get them hot like with a torch.

 

I started lowering mine on the stock struts and only got a couple inches it started bottoming on the strut. I did a S13 240SX front strut swap as they are probably 8" shorter than the original B210 struts. It's not for everyone as I've seen on here no one else has done one.

 

For the rear I believe its shocks for a '92 Camaro, I have my short leaf flipped to the top. The Camaro shocks are 18" extended versus 21" for the stockers. You need to remove the collar from the bottom mount and push it into the Camaro rubber, its tight but works fine once in there. I used some silicon spray lube to assist.

 

My car rides better than it did on the O.E. stuff and is 4-5" lower in the front from where it started. It would look lower on some 15" wheels but these are all I have to work with at the moment.

 

[bosifus]

That looks great man. Just right IMO.