Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Swapping a 280Z trannie onto my LZ23 Clutch is Exedy...for the Z22/Z24, worked fine before the swap....if anything I had to set up the clutch pedal a little tighter/less slop in linkage .... but. No difference in Z24/280Z trannies other than gearing and trannie mounts...that I can see. I measured the distance from the back of the engine (inspection plate) to the clutch fingers...approx 2.75" Pushed the throw out bearing back....and measured its position from the face of the bell housing...approx 2.75"???? Seems the clearance from the fingers to the throw out bearing (after install) will be close to zero??? I have the recommended longer Z24 collar on the throw out bearing What keeps the bearing away from the fingers..(shorter collar)?...I assume when I hook up the slave it will have less clearance yet Hmmmmmm Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Slave rod should be loose when installed, if it isn't, make it shorter. I have not a clue about the TB collar other than the collar follows the clutch cover. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Slave rod should be loose when installed, if it isn't, make it shorter. I have not a clue about the TB collar other than the collar follows the clutch cover. Yeah...I know about the slave rod....but being that there is such limited clearance, the throw out bearing could migrate forward a bit and ride on the fingers???? 280Z slave rod is adjustable...not the Z24/Z22 though Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 There was a short collar/throw our bearing in the 280Z trannie..... assuming it was the wrong set up :D I swapped all my new Z24 clutch components in Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I always wondered about them too. My old 521 and 510 had an adjustment on the slave push rod so there was always some small slack. Later trannys do not. So maybe some contact and spinning is acceptable? That's a big strong bearing and probably will survive a slight load all the time. Probably till the end f time. Maybe just the weight of the hydraulic fluid in the line above the slave pushing? The diaphragm fingers are stiff and will have pushed the bearing fully back so it may just ride lightly against them? I don't see a problem with this. Totally different if the collar is too long and the bearing is being forced against the fingers, this would accelerate the wear. BTW when I pull up to a stop I shift into neutral and let the clutch out. Hardly ever sit with the clutch peddle down. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Your not alone datzenmike, I am usually in neutral before I get stopped. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I like the old 521 slave cylinder, and fork, that has a spring to retract the throwout bearing. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I always wondered about them too. My old 521 and 510 had an adjustment on the slave push rod so there was always some small slack. Later trannys do not. So maybe some contact and spinning is acceptable? That's a big strong bearing and probably will survive a slight load all the time. Probably till the end f time. Maybe just the weight of the hydraulic fluid in the line above the slave pushing? The diaphragm fingers are stiff and will have pushed the bearing fully back so it may just ride lightly against them? I don't see a problem with this. Totally different if the collar is too long and the bearing is being forced against the fingers, this would accelerate the wear. BTW when I pull up to a stop I shift into neutral and let the clutch out. Hardly ever sit with the clutch peddle down. That's what figured......sort of.... :D I don't even have a short collar...(other than the old one in the 280Z trannie)...all the Z22/24s are long Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 So what do you think Daniel? Maybe the new ones ride slightly against the PP fingers? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 That's what figured......sort of.... :D I don't even have a short collar...(other than the old one in the 280Z trannie)...all the Z22/24s are long Larger PP (taller) needs a shorter collar length. Collar is matched to the PP used. (not tranny) Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I think if I used a short collar...I would have limited clutch disengagement...not enough Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Larger PP (taller) needs a shorter collar length. Collar is matched to the PP used. (not tranny) Yup.....I measured the PP from the 280Z....basically the same as my Exedy Have to have a look...but I assume the 280Z slave rod is longer Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Done.....sort of Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 I like the retracting spring, and the adjustable pushrod. I was taught you should not have the throwout bearing contentiously rotating. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Sometime I must pull the dust boot back and shine a light on this subject. See if it's near or against the fingers. I too was taught that it shouldn't be touching but this was a spring clutch that would need adjustment as the disc wore down? Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 After assembly........I'll pull the boot back and have a gander Should be OK....being that it's all Z24 clutch components....but...one can never assume Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I had a similar issue with the 510 the first clutch go round. The old style throw out bearing isn't meant to ride on the pressure plate. Doing so will fling grease around the bellhousing. I adjusted the length of the rod by grinding, but a retraction spring is a good idea. If the bearing runs at engine rpm, it will fling out and eventually dry up the bearing. SOME bearings are meant to continually ride on the pressure plate, but as far as I know, the L series are not supposed to. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I had a similar issue with the 510 the first clutch go round. The old style throw out bearing isn't meant to ride on the pressure plate. Doing so will fling grease around the bellhousing. I adjusted the length of the rod by grinding, but a retraction spring is a good idea. If the bearing runs at engine rpm, it will fling out and eventually dry up the bearing. SOME bearings are meant to continually ride on the pressure plate, but as far as I know, the L series are not supposed to. Hmmmmmm...well this is an Exedy Stage 1 clutch...with larger bearing Anywho.... I posted this earlier...but Ratsun was somewhat MIA... again and again...so I copied and pasted my reply somewhere else...with intent to re-post later, which is now.. :D ..."Well I'm baffled... In hindsight I should of checked for slop/movement in the fork after I slapped the trannie on the engine. Sooooo....got everything hooked up and go to install the slave cylinder...and the fork is hard up/tight....zero movement. First time I installed the clutch there was no pressure/fluid in the slave.....I then installed the slave and bled the system....soooo...I'm not sure if the fork was tight. Figured I would of noticed...but This time...the slave was already bled, just hanging down... and when I installed it, I then noticed how tight the slave rod was to the fork. Was a bitch without releasing the pressure in the line In other words...I'm not sure if it's the same... compared to the first install.... :blink: Only think I can think of is the pivot stud is compromised or longer"..???.... Side note....I fired up the engine an ago and the clutch feels fine...no noise...pedal engages about 1.5 inches from floor...but...I have other issues now... :unsure: Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Hmmmmmm...well this is an Exedy Stage 1 clutch...with larger bearing Anywho.... I posted this earlier...but Ratsun was somewhat MIA... again and again...so I copied and pasted my reply somewhere else...with intent to re-post later, which is now.. :D ..."Well I'm baffled... In hindsight I should of checked for slop/movement in the fork after I slapped the trannie on the engine. Sooooo....got everything hooked up and go to install the slave cylinder...and the fork is hard up/tight....zero movement. First time I installed the clutch there was no pressure/fluid in the slave.....I then installed the slave and bled the system....soooo...I'm not sure if the fork was tight. Figured I would of noticed...but This time...the slave was already bled, just hanging down... and when I installed it, I then noticed how tight the slave rod was to the fork. Was a bitch without releasing the pressure in the line In other words...I'm not sure if it's the same... compared to the first install.... :blink: Only think I can think of is the pivot stud is compromised or longer"..???.... Side note....I fired up the engine an ago and the clutch feels fine...no noise...pedal engages about 1.5 inches from floor...but...I have other issues now... :unsure: "Other issues now", this doesn't sound good, I hope the engine isn't the issue. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.