aintnobiscuit Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 In order of importance, the things I still need to purchase to finish the motor: - Cometic head gasket - ARP main cap bolts - ACL Race (main and crank) Bearings with oversized oil hole - Tomei Assembly lube - Greddy timing belt - Block bored to 83.5mm - Head pressure test - 3 Angle valve job - Hot tank head / block - New freeze plugs - Polished crank - Blueprinted bottom end (chose bearings based on sizes from blueprinting) - Head gasket - ARP main studs - AMS oil (any recommendations on places to purchase from?) - Valve spring seat... (Going to purchase when I stop by FRSport) Wow, i'm literally done. Just need to wait for parts and asemble. Engine may be done tomorrow but I can't put it together until I receive all those parts :( 2 Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Great Progress... Gitten-er-Done! Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 YES! Parts from above list are ready for pickup! Ali's said the engine will be done tomorrow or Monday at the latest! +1 for Ali's!!!! Now i just need to put it together. Sounds like ErichWasLike will be coming over to hang / help put stuff back together :D Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 OICS!!!! race bearings, +.01 oversized oil holes, greddy timing belt, assembly lube!! Don't worry guys, more oics to come once i swing by my house to grab the other package... and theres still more arriving later! Quote Link to comment
rusty12ver Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Did you pick up a new oil pump? Im not sure if I caught that in your list. I assume yes. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 Yes, new oil pump and new water pump :) And here's the head gasket! Quote Link to comment
rusty12ver Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Dude, I can't wait to see what this does once put together on the dyno! Nice build! I can't wait to see it done! Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Thanks buddy! Here are some more oics!!!! :D!!!! I would have done more, but i didn't pick up the engine until late and wasn't ready to work on it tonight... but the USPS fairy dropped off the last component, the ARP main cap bolts!!! YEAH!!!!!! ARP Main cap bolts!!! Polished crank. Looks like mirrors in person, so stoked! The head after valve job and hot tank. Looks like new! Close up of head/valve job Close up of intake ports. So clean! The block still looks shitty, but its super clean inside. New freeze plugs too. The REALLY cleaned the whole inside out. Beautiful cross hatching. The specs are just lint. It's nothing bad. I'm going to hit it with a paper towel later and re-oil it. Here's the decked block surface. Shiny! Left is the hot tanked head. Right is the head I built. I'm switching all the parts over to this head since it's so nice. Unfortunately I forgot I don't have oil seals for this head... so I have to buy new oil seals before I can finish putting everything together...... now how lame is that :( Exhaust valve Here is a picture of the valvetrain. Titanium retainers, dual valve springs, brand new lifters. Intake valves Put the block on my engine stand, gave it some extra oil, since I won't be finishing tonight and installed the oil squirters Piston and rod assembled! All 4 pistons and rods are done Padron - victory smoke for when I start it up again.Thats how I roll ;) 2 Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Let me be the first to say, you are a motha fuckin animal mang! I am going to rebuild my other SR one of these days and I hope to have as much fun as you! Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Ha ha ha, idk, it's been a very long journey and I'm just happy that I'm getting so close. My girlfriend has been very supportive even though it takes a lot of time out of our week. Im pretty lucky she's so understanding. That being said, I'm trying to finish it as fast as possible without cutting corners do I can hopefully drive it to nismolism, a Nissan/Datsun car shoe coming up December 8th. I don't think I can get the front pulled by then to have the fender fit... :( You guys really help a lot by commenting and being interested, otherwise I would probably be taking longer to do everything, lol. Actually, seeing your guys builds helps a lot too. I can see where I messed up and improve things later. Especially the intercooler, radiator and wiring. I think those are my biggest trouble spots now. Motor should be tits at least :) Thanks for the support! Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Well I sure keep coming back. I havent opened my CA yet, and your thread certainly shows me what to expect. Right now, Im just in planning stage, but cant decided whether or not to do rings and bearings. I want to because well its a good thing. I dont want to because who knows if the engine will work right away in my car, or not work properly. Then my rings might not seat correctly. And I have never had to seat rings on a turbo motor if its any different. But yes, keep going! I want to see it through! Me likey CA18DET!(its why I got one) I do have one question, but not sure if you would know the answer... Im not looking to go all out with this motor in my car.My question, is it possible to keep the bottom mount in a LHD 510? I think I found one post where the guy said the stock T25 was really close to the steering box, and that maybe clocking the motor a degree or 2 would help, but nothing definitive. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Thats hard to say. I did see pictures of someone who had put it in with the bottom mount t25. Because of the crossmember I have, my motor sits differently than if I had a flipped crossmember. I think if you have a flipped crossmember and put a space on the driver's side engine mount you MIGHT be able to make it fit.... With the t28 i had i couldn't get it to fit because of the slightly larger compressor housing. Also, the internal wastegate was hitting the timing cover. IDK if you want the super hot turbo sitting within an inch of the steering box since it's not something you can get another of. From my understanding if your steering box goes, you have to go to rack & pinion if you don't have a donor dime to pull it from. P.S. more oics shortly. I'm doing work until my GF gets home, she went to work for a bit this morning.. she loves overtime. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Installed main bearings, installed and torqued the oil squirters Close up of bearings Bearings inside the caps Assembly paste got put in Lube'd other side ARP main studs are in Installed the crank Installed main caps Installed the crank girdlle, lubed with ARP lube and torqued to proper torque (60ft/lbs in three steps... but I actually just started at 15ft/lbs and added 15 for each step up to 60) Casualty.... husky sucks anyway, i just got it because it came with all these sockets... and you can never have too many damn sockets. Anyway, I'm headed to the SD zoo for a date with my GF.... i'm going to do a LOT more when I get home! Hope you guys are enjoying this as much as I am!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Geeze, makes me want to work so bad on my dime! Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 do it! Theres always something to do... work on your gauges :) Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Good news and bad news friends..... Good news: the nissan gasket kit came with valve oil seals. (YES! Now I can finish putting the head together!) Bad news: My Scion developed super loud bearing noise related to engine rpm, independent of the transmission. Seems to go away with higher rpm (oil pump issue?) So i had to drop it off at the dealer this morning. I'm hoping i don't have to spend even MORE on this fucking POS. I HATE my scion...... LOL I also did some more work last night.. MOAR OICS in like 15 minutes, gonna have a ciggy and drink some coffee before I upload EDIT: Installed oil pump, timing belt gear. Made sure I lubed it so it doesn't rust on again.. the guys at the machine shop were laughing because they thought they weren't going to be able to get this or the crank pulley off Installed timing guide, water pump and dipstick guide (i don't know what else to call that). I cleaned this up after installing, so although it looks dirty, you'll see in newer pictures that it will be sexy clean :) Installed engine mount Other engine mount Did some basic cleaning and lubing. Super stoked this came with valve oil seals. I'm going to put the head together tonight I think Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 do it! Theres always something to do... work on your gauges :) Ya, I do little shit here and there. The big stuff is just going to have to wait for now tho.. lol So the CA18 iron block is not sleeved in any way huh? That's a trip. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Yeah, since it's cast iron they don't sleeve it. I've only heard of 1 person destroying the block and it was because they bored it to like 84mm (pretty big considering bore size) and then extrude honed their water passages or something. The passages were super rusted out, so one day they were driving and started seeing some mist from the exhaust and it smelled like coolant. They opened the block to find that the water passages were so corroded that when they were boosting the cylinder wall had cracked and coolant was leaking into the combustion chamber. From what I've read, 84mm should be the max you bore the CA to. Tomei does like 85mm pistons for it though, LOL. I suppose you could always sleeve the block if you wanted to though for added strength. Hows the car? Did you give her a name? Quote Link to comment
JPE16 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 I just quickly read through your thread, and didn't see it listed anywhere, but what rad are you using? Lovin the progress! keep up the good work! Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 JPE16: Radiator is from ebay. I think CX racing or something like that. I wouldn't recommend it personally, i just needed something to get the car running. I'll probably try and get something like PWR or TSR, not a fan of Koyo... i think they're trash for how much they cost. Ran the same sr20 with a koyo and a pwr and the pwr ran much cooler. Cost/size are the same. My scion needs a water pump... they want $800 to do the work. I'm fucking done with this thing... anybody want it for a couple $k? It's a 2008 scion xd. 70k miles. All service done at dealer. Salvaged title (frame is fine. Teenager had it before me, put 400 miles on it and took a turn too sharp, wrecked two doors, fenders. It got fixed 100% though... still marked as salvaged). Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Yeah, since it's cast iron they don't sleeve it. I've only heard of 1 person destroying the block and it was because they bored it to like 84mm (pretty big considering bore size) and then extrude honed their water passages or something. The passages were super rusted out, so one day they were driving and started seeing some mist from the exhaust and it smelled like coolant. They opened the block to find that the water passages were so corroded that when they were boosting the cylinder wall had cracked and coolant was leaking into the combustion chamber. From what I've read, 84mm should be the max you bore the CA to. Tomei does like 85mm pistons for it though, LOL. I suppose you could always sleeve the block if you wanted to though for added strength. Hows the car? Did you give her a name? No real name as of yet. Just never really called it anything but a piece of shit since I had nothing but problems with it before. Hahaha But those days are over and haven't really thought of a name for it. Geeze, haven't even figured out if it's a boy or girl! lololol It was a bitch and had an attitude before the rebuild but now it will be a Brute, a Violently Fucking Hostile Bully once I am done so what images are conjured up with those descriptions?? hahaha 1 Quote Link to comment
fo0manchu Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 awesome documentation of the build! looking good man. My wife was looking at the xd, sounds like its given you a lot of problems? $800 water pump change! wow, it must be a pain to get to and its only a 2008 and needs a pump change. Quote Link to comment
JPE16 Posted November 5, 2012 Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 JPE16: Radiator is from ebay. I think CX racing or something like that. I wouldn't recommend it personally, i just needed something to get the car running. I'll probably try and get something like PWR or TSR, not a fan of Koyo... i think they're trash for how much they cost. Ran the same sr20 with a koyo and a pwr and the pwr ran much cooler. Cost/size are the same. My scion needs a water pump... they want $800 to do the work. I'm fucking done with this thing... anybody want it for a couple $k? It's a 2008 scion xd. 70k miles. All service done at dealer. Salvaged title (frame is fine. Teenager had it before me, put 400 miles on it and took a turn too sharp, wrecked two doors, fenders. It got fixed 100% though... still marked as salvaged). I'm looking for a mishimoto one for my car. I was more so curious if yours was designed for a certain application or custom sized. I had a Koyo in my WRX, and from my experienced it worked the same as my friend's mishimoto ones and cost...more Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted November 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2012 Ha ha ha, yeah, that's Koyo, LOL. The Scion is FWD so it's hard to get to anything... they have to pull everything to get to the pump. Part is probably $150-200. I fucking hate the Xd. I've spent about $8k in repairs since I bought it with 400 miles on it. I don't drive it hard, i treat it like an economy car. It's never seen triple digits, etc. It's just a piece of fucking junk. I spent a bit on craigslist and found a datsun roadster for $3k.... thinking about snagging that bitch and selling my Scion to try and recoup some of the cost. Anybody have an idea of what to look for as far as trouble spots on a roadster? It's a 67 Roadster SPL 1600... not sure how much that helps, never looked into them before. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.