aintnobiscuit Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Thanks for the input, I actually trust people on Ratsun versus other forums. SR20DETDatsun510: What oil are you running for break in? I'm going to do some searches when I get to work but I'm just curious since you've obviously done a lot of research. The only thing I had planed was to use conventional oil and break it in on the dyno. What did/are you going to do. I can't remember if you've driven it yet. We should have a meet at some point somewhere central to both of us, like the Port of LA. Maybe we can get a bunch of Ratsun guys out there. It's pretty sweet, super industrial and would make for some good pictures. Any other opinions/input definitely welcome Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 BTW, heres an update pic with all the swag i'm installing once I get the motor apart and sent to the machine shop. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 this thing is gunna be bad to the bone when your done man, cant wait. Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 The Nissan Box Un-doubtedly the gasket set.... right? lol Also, weird looking oil pump... Well, compared with the SR20 Pump. Good stuff man! I LOVE pics with all kinds of new parts all strewn around!! Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Eagle_Adam: I sure as hell hope so! I don't think it will be keeping up with SR20DETdatsun510's car, but i'm sure we could have a good run. LOL! SR20DETdatsun510: Yep, it's got the gaskets for everything in the engine. Yeah, the oil pump a little unusual looking. What engine management are you running? I don't recall seeing that in your thread, although i could have missed it. I'm going to take about 9,000,000 pictures since I found the charger for my DSLR this morning. I've been taking pics with my cell so they aren't that great of quality. I'll take a ton of pictures of the block stripped and each part going back on so you can see how all this ridiculous fits together. Might as well paint everything since it will be out too. I guess I get that opportunity to clean the engine bay too. YAY! I need to source up an oil cooler at some point. FRSport has a Setrab oil cooler which not only looks bad ass but is functional. Probably do some sort of inline install (relocate the oil filter at the same time). Anybody have experience with Setrab or an oil cooler that they thought was nice? This is the oil cooler I'm looking at Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 sooo............ where are these pics you promised, cuz i wanna see Meow Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Pics of pulling everything apart? If thats what you mean, then I can't right now because I'm at work, which is about 20 miles away from where I live :( I'll at least start pulling stuff apart tonight. Talked to the machine shop and these are the prices I got: Head Pressure test: free 3 angle valve job: $200 Hot tank: $28 Block / Crank Hot tank $40 Bore to 83.5mm $60 Inspect all clearances: free polishing/etc: depends... but will be extra I asked if they are able to flow bench there, he said no. I wanted to see if I could get port/polish done there but if they can't do flow then theres no point. Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 I am using the Apexi PFC L-jetro. I want D-jetro but with the sensors and the rewire of my custom harness would run me $1500. Not ready for that. SO I will rum my Z32 MAF for now. Been thinking of doing it like Tophers SR and run the MAF and BOV in swapped positions. (MAF on cold side) but have not decided yet. Another thing Mazworx told me and included in their break in instructions was to wait on the relocated oil filters and oil coolers till after breaking in the motor. I guess their reasoning is that you want oil pressure to build up as rapidly as it can to reduce metal on metal contact as much as possible. I guess with all the routing it builds up much slower. Plus you want the block to heat up like it is supposed to at first for proper heat cycling, seating and such. Then after proper break-in, install them. Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 23, 2012 Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 pics of everything, cus im a pic whore :D Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2012 Yeah, that makes sense. I don't think i'll need it until I'm actually driving the car hard anyway. I'm sure you don't want all the metal filings to get stuck in your oil cooler and lines either. That would just piss you off having to try and clean those out. I'll get pics up as soon as I'm doing something LOL Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2012 Has anyone done the Z speedo drive assembly into a newer trans to make the stock tach/speedo work? I'm curious how difficult it was to do. From what I understand you just go grab a couple different ratio speedo assemblies and then pop them into the trans, connect the cable and see how off your speedo is. For clarity's sake, here is a link to what i'm talking about doing http://community.ratsun.net/topic/10901-280zx-speed-sensor/ Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Stuff I did this morning, gotta head to work so this is short List of things I need to do before I can take engine to machine shop... wrote this out on my break so I have a checklist :D Labeling and removing PCV stuff and sensors partially removed sensors FOUND THE BATTERY FOR MY DSLR! Borrowing a tripod from a friend after tonight so pictures will be uniform from now on Labeled and removed sensors. Labeled and removed injector wiring Removed the coil pack cover thingy Coil pack harness removed Removed the wiring from the engine... Next steps: drain coolant, depressurize fuel lines. Remove fuel lines and all cooling system. Drop intake/exhaust manifold/turbo stuff... then remove/disassemble the head/bottom end and head to the machine shop! YEAH! Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted October 25, 2012 Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Good Starting Progress. (Which reminds me, I need to make another list) lol Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2012 Yeah man, lists are the way to go. I like to make them when i'm not near the engine so i have to visualize every step. Then i look at the engine and make sure i'm not missing anything. Probably leaving work early after we push some stuff to production so I can finish this. I'm hoping to be able to drop everything at the machine shop tomorrow AM before work because i'm heading to San Francisco this weekend. Never been and my girlfriend's friend is having a birthday party. Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Hi guys! big update from last night! I got this done in 3 hours. I couldn't stay up any later :( bummers! Removed all the wiring in the back, and pushed to the side Removed downpipe bolts Goodbye oil feed/return lines Removed intake and clocked compressor housing so i can take it out Turbo is FREEEEEEEEEEEE Bye bye turbo face / boost piping Goodbye cooling system, intercooler, piping Better picture of naked engine Removed CAS, wiring, all that stuff No more timing cover... wheeeeeeeee!!!! Removed rocker covers, cam gears, timing belt Removed cams and cam towers This is just a prettier picture IMO GTFO of here alternator and bracket! Jacked car up to get to intake manifold bolts, you can see just how bad the rear seal is leaking here... it's basically pissing on the floor. All the other stuff is just water. It's not oil or anything... the floor is much cleaner than it looks in this picture. OW FUCK! Hose clamp got me. The old style low pressure ones that you have to squeeze with pliers... they have sharp edges :/ Intake manifold? What intake manifold :) Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 I know compression was about 15psi lower on cylinder 1. I looked at the head bolt and it was corroded/caked with coolant shit and rust... I wonder if the head gasket had a tiiiiiiiny leak in this area. Cylinder 4 had some coking/carbon build up that smelled terrible on this bolt. Holy carbon build up batman! Exhaust ports are disgusting! Close up of exhaust ports. Please excuse the poor lighting, it was 12:30am and i didn't know where my spotlight was Tried to get a good picture of the intake ports/valves on this one with flash... made it difficult to see. The one on the right is the one fuel goes down all the time. Shiny! The other side is the one blocked by the butterfly under low throttle. Filthy! Intake ports Head al Carbon. New at del taco! I can't wait to see this after the valve job and hot tank :) And here are the pistons/head gasket. Looks ok for the most part. So much build up from running insanely rich. This is why you don't buy an Apex'i AFC or similar product. They don't work all that well. This is why you get a haltech or real EMS. 550cc injectors :) Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Man Handling that motor! Great Progress! Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 gotta love when you get the bug to make progress by leaps and bounds!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Hahaha, thanks guys. I didn't want to sleep, I really wanted to finish but I know my day would suffer because of it and I have to drive far today after work. Anyway, hope to have some awesome updates for you soon :) Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Do you guys use gloves when you work on your car? Normally I wear those blue nitrile ones, but I like the feeling of my hands actually holding the parts and my progress is usually slower with them on for some reason.... Do you guys have the same experience? Do you use those mechanix gloves? Quote Link to comment
SR20DETdatsun510 Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 I use gloves but then I notice after a while, I end up taking them off anyways... And the rubber ones always rip and make my hands sweat... lol Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Do you guys use gloves when you work on your car? \ always, the black nitril gloves are the shit Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Interesting. i guess i'm not the only one, LOL. i always rip the gloves too Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted October 26, 2012 Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 i dont buy the cheap ones tho, i get mine from baxters and they are $15+ per box - i rarely rip them Quote Link to comment
aintnobiscuit Posted October 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2012 Hmmm.... perhaps i should look into that. I always get the blue ones from AutoZone. They're like $5 a box and tear after 15 minutes or anything requiring the use of your fingers. LOL Quote Link to comment
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