Olivia - 69 2 door 510 sedan - fully built CA18DET

[aintnobiscuit]

No shit? Thats awesome. I work at the end of newport blvd and pch LOL. I go through costa mesa (and used to live there) forever. Do you have a build thread?

[fo0manchu]

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/22822-4-linked-wagon/

have'nt updated it in a bit though nor have I been working on it that much due to work.

[aintnobiscuit]

Just purchased:

new OEM oil pump

ARP head studs

new OEM water pump

complete rebuild kit (just for gaskets)

 

I'll be purchasing a lot of other parts over the next couple weeks. Mostly engine components. I plan on rebuilding with all forged internals and a blueprinted block, valve job, etc... might take me a little bit to put it all together.

 

Anyway, stay tuned. I'll take pictures as things arrive.

[rusty12ver]

Sweet! Do u plan on using after market rods or shot peen the stockers?

[aintnobiscuit]

Aftermarket rods.

 

Theres an Australian company (http://www.spoolimports.com/) that makes some pretty damn good stuff for the CA18. People have a lot of success with their stuff in AU and since the AU motto is "bigger turbo, need more torque" i think this is the way to go.

 

:)

[rusty12ver]

I like that ca stroker kit, real nice.

[aintnobiscuit]

Me too, i was going to get that but its $3000 plus $500 in shipping (if I remember right). IDK, I still haven't ruled it out, it just depends on how long I can let this cash sit in my pocket before I start buying things. I just got back from Costa Rica so I have to pay for that trip before I can purchase too much more.

 

I really just want to get everything pretty (hot tanked) and everything sealed, inspected, ready to roll so I can take it to the damn dyno, LOL!

 

Maybe I'll try and clean up the car a bit while I'm waiting for things..... I also need to get that driver's side fender area pulled out too. I'm sure that will be like $800 :/

[erichwaslike]

you need to hury up and get this thing done and start putting that exhaust to good use!!!!!! and start showcasing it too lol

[aintnobiscuit]

LOL! i don't know about showcasing it, but driving it yeah. It's a 40fter... looks good from 40ft away! ha ha ha!

 

I went to Costa Rica for my birthday, so I spent all my car money... thats why it took me a couple weeks to buy more parts and update the thread. I'm talking to Spool Imports and FRSport to see if they can get the internals I want. Also, pictures of stuff tonight!

 

w00t!

[aintnobiscuit]

Talked to FRSport.

 

They'll do a similar package with the following:

 

CP pistons 83.5mm 8.5:1 compression

Pauter rods

ACL bearings

 

for about the same price except no wait and no shipping..... i'm excited :)

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Dang, what size are the stock pistons?

Sr20 stockies are 86mm and I put 89mm pistons in... :w00t:

 

What about the crank? Going to get a forged one?

Or maybe just get your current one polished, knife edged and wpc treated...

Also make sure you prep the block good too.

I had oil troughs machined into the crank journals on my block and 5 hole bearings installed for better oiling.

I realize this is a CA18 but I am sure there are similar products and mods for them...

[aintnobiscuit]

stock bore x stroke is 83mm x 83.6mm so it will end up being squared (like the SR) but still smaller displacement.

 

I'm dropping the block off at the best place i know of in my area to get tanked, all the passages cleaned, bored, honed, blueprinted. As far as the crank, it just depends on what it looks like. I don't think this engine was beat on at all. It looks great inside (no scores or discoloring on anything i've seen so far). If i have a reason to put another crank in there, i will, but from what i understand the crank can take some insane abuse (7-800hp). Mobne's car is a good example of what these little motors are capable of (

). In that video he's pushin 2.3 bar of boost, but he has other videos at 2.5 bar (36 psi). I can't find his build thread right now but I think it's a stock crank if I recall.

 

I'm probably just going to talk to the guy (Ali) and see what he suggests. I believe he does all the high HP motors in signall hill.

 

Thanks for the heads up, I'll look into some different things like what you suggested, it's just that most people don't do ca18s to high HP anymore because the SR and RB are so readily available and everyone wants like 800hp.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Our little cars don't need that much power. I only built mine so much so that it is bullet proof.

If the crank can hold 400hp, go for using it. I would.

Just freshen it up, have it balanced, knife edged, polished and treated..... Good to go!

 

As far as the bearings, I am not sure how big the CA18 bearings are but I was able to use GTiR 5 hole bearings with the calico coating.

I have read of people just machining the holes bearings. That's kind of crazy tho.

 

Just research it all 20 times and pop on it just once!

[aintnobiscuit]

well said!

 

ha ha ha, yeah, thats my plan too... otherwise I would have pulled the motor back out and just replaced the rear main seal already. I'd rather it be bulletproof than have large numbers and keep taking it apart all the time. For example, I am not going to purchase bearings until the crank is polished and bottom end blueprinted so I know the exact size bearings to purchase.

 

BTW, your build is still fucking awesome :D

 

i'll catch up one day after I pull the front fender area out and do a complete sandblast of the car amongst other things, LOL!

[aintnobiscuit]

Sitting by my phone, patiently waiting for my contact at FRSport to get to work so I can buy pistons, connecting rods and an oil cooler......

 

I'm not very patient :/

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Sitting by my phone, patiently waiting for my contact at FRSport to get to work so I can buy pistons, connecting rods and an oil cooler......

 

I'm not very patient :/

I feel you man.

I am one inpatient Muther F'er sometimes! It takes so much cognitive control to keep me sane when I am waiting for shit to happen.

Just keep in mind that it will take 75% longer than you first anticipate and you will fare well mentally... LOL

I thought my build would take 4-5 months. It is now looking like almost a year... Fuuuuuuuu

[aintnobiscuit]

hahahahahaha! Yeah, same here.... i started july of 2010 (on the engine). Now it is October of 2012.

 

Granted I can only really count working on the car since I got it (which was October 1, 2011).

 

But, at least there is light at the end of the tunnel and it appears i may be able to drive it by the time winter gets here.... although now I have to wire the windshield wipers... which I have not done yet....

 

I know what you mean about the whole realizing you are being impatient and making sure your actions are appropriate to other people. I tend to get grumpy and stubborn when things don't go as planned. Its taken a LOT of will power to stop working on this for a short time to take vacations and things to keep my GF happy. I REALLY wanted to spend that money on my car. LOL.

 

But I'm glad i went on vacation. I needed the time away and so did she.

 

Hows your car going? I'm going to hop on over and check updates in a sec.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

It's good to take a break and go on Vacation (not that I would know what that is) because Experiences are for a life time, material objects come and go.

I mean hopefully I have my dime for a long time but knowing me, I will move onto something better when I get bored.... lol

[aintnobiscuit]

ha ha ha... oh man. I did that with one that I had that I really loved. I let someone buy it and he let it get impounded. he told me about a month later. I went down to get it but it was gone... they had crushed it. I just about killed him.

 

NEW STUFF!! I have more stuff at home, I'll add more pics later.

 

They threw in a t-shirt for checking in on yelp.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Yay, welcome to the "Forged Internals Club" !!!

I would not have gotten Royal Purple tho.

I have read many places that is it bad on Turbo Seals.

My brothers Greddy Turbo took a shit and Greddy directly blames Royal Purple for it.

They say they have seen it many times.

Do some research and you will easily find topics on this...

 

Also, all of my research says not to use synthetic oils during break in.

I am using Amsoil Break-in Oil and then plan to use Mobil1 Synth AFTER break-in.

 

I mean do your own research to confim all of this as this is my first engine build but I conferred with Mazworx and

other people that have built many high performance motors and this is what they have conveyed to me....

 

Just trying to help....

 

I too have some fluids that I cant use cause I bought them before I finished my research... But you can resell it to

some NA guys. It works for them...

[aintnobiscuit]

Thanks! Glad to be here!

 

Aww man... in the world of motorcycles Royal Purple is the best and I used to ride sport bikes, so I just kind of figured the same rules apply.

 

I wasn't planning on using this for break-in, but i was going to run it after... I'll probably give it to my buddy who has a bmw.. he's NA and treats his car well. I believe you on the Royal Purple though.. i've read plenty of stuff saying one way or the other but never read anything about turbo cars using it. I did read an entire thread on oils over at zilvia though and everyone seemed to be running AMS, Motul or Castrol. I've always run castrol in my cars in the past. I wanted Motul but they didn't have the weight I wanted. LOL. Theres that patience thing we keep talking about.

 

Well, at least I wont do this with the actual build process. SMH... haven't built a motor in a long time... I guess i'm just getting old and impatient or something.

[SR20DETdatsun510]

Ya, I have read soooo many different opinions about oil. It is beyond convoluted. Most people don't even know what the numbers mean.

They think if the numbers are higher, it's thicker... Not that simple.

We are in warm California so a bit thicker viscosities when cold and hot are a bit better for Summer cars like mine.

Not sure what is best for daily drivers...

But like I said (my disclaimer) this is my first time, so do your own research... hahaha

 

Anyone else want to chime in on this subject?

[aintnobiscuit]

Yeah, i started reading quite a bit (i read fast). I have plenty of time before I actually get to the point of putting any oil back in the motor so no biggie.

 

I do appreciate your thoughts on the matter though.

 

I did a lot of research when synthetics first came out. Same with spark plugs.. but a lot has changed since then. I had an 88 Starion at the time and it was

 

A) picky as hell about everything

B) TBI

 

Spark plugs and oil made a hell of a difference. It would only run right with NGKs. The temp gauge would only with with mitsu coolant temp sensor from the dealership. I went through 5 from the same store before I read something at starquestclub about it. Nobody knows why. The resistance that comes out is the same on a voltmeter and everything.

 

Anyway, end of my off topic rant.

[aintnobiscuit]

I can't find anything about Royal Purple eating turbos, but a bunch of independent studies say that it doesn't protect very well against wear and breaks down faster than AMS and Mobil 1.

 

Thats enough to tell me to stay the F away.

[fo0manchu]

from my memory, amsoil is one of the true 100% synthetics. Most oil labels that say "100% synthetic" are no longer so. If you want to know the best oil, there are labs you can send your old oil to and they will analyze it. I believe there are some people that have already done this already if you google it. I've used mobil1, castrol, and amsoil synthetics. Amsoil is more expensive, but after 15,000 miles in a Montero I once had, the oil still looked like it just came out of the bottle. I can't say the same for the other 2. However, if you keep an eye on your oil and change it regularly it doesn't matter too much. My brother's engine builder for his subi(which is going to be dyno'd somewhere around 350 to the wheels) recommends using regular castrol and just keeping an eye on the oil.