Help mushy clutch and trouble getting in gear

[The Dat-side]

This all started yesterday on my way to work. Backed the car out of the garage, and sat in the driveway to warm it up. Went to leave and whenever I'd try to put it into reverse it'd just grind. Eventually got it in and had a little trouble switching gears. Got to work and it sat for 11 hours.

Leaving work. Warmed it up. Went to pull out of the parking spot, took my foot off the brake and it felt like it pulled forward even tho my foot was still on the clutch. I went with it and continued out of the parking lot. Took back rounds and rolled up to a stop sign. Put it in neutral and couldn't get it into first unless I turned the car off put it in first, then started it back up. Shifting the whole way home but still kinda tough to get it in gear. And the clutch was just mush. Driving down the road, in gear, I could push the clutch in over half way with no effort.

 

Did have a chance to look at anything yet but not sure heat to look at beside clutch reservoir. I work the next 3 days but hopefully I'll have a chance to check soon.

 

Any ideas?

TIA

[The Dat-side]

Oh L20b and dogleg in a 71 510

[banzai510(hainz)]

OK this is a basic ck.

You ck the fluid on the resivoir?

If no fluid add fluid and rebleed the system,SIMPLE!!!!!!!!

 

these dont last forever, how about look under the pedal and see if its slighly leaking.

refill and if drain is in a few weeks more like you have a leaky slave cylinder as most of them rust out down there. or the master if leaky under the pedal is wearing and get ready to buy a spare.

 

jap made slaves/master cylinders are the best, but alot of taiwan or Italian one out there now.

[Stupid_fast]

Mine use to do this, clutch always contacting, out of adjustment or low fluid. Adjust the slave cylinder nut...make sure clutch fully disengages.

[LenRobertson]

Pretty much the same thing happened to me with my 200SX/L20b/dogleg. Had clutch one minute, next minute almost nothing. I rebuilt and bled the slave cylinder. It's been good for years now. You might get by awhile with just bleeding, but it will likely happen again. Buying a new slave cylinder may not be much more $$ than a rebuild kit.

 

Len

[datzenmike]

This all started yesterday on my way to work. Backed the car out of the garage, and sat in the driveway to warm it up. Went to leave and whenever I'd try to put it into reverse it'd just grind. Eventually got it in and had a little trouble switching gears. Got to work and it sat for 11 hours.

Leaving work. Warmed it up. Went to pull out of the parking spot, took my foot off the brake and it felt like it pulled forward even tho my foot was still on the clutch. I went with it and continued out of the parking lot. Took back rounds and rolled up to a stop sign. Put it in neutral and couldn't get it into first unless I turned the car off put it in first, then started it back up. Shifting the whole way home but still kinda tough to get it in gear. And the clutch was just mush. Driving down the road, in gear, I could push the clutch in over half way with no effort.

 

Did have a chance to look at anything yet but not sure heat to look at beside clutch reservoir. I work the next 3 days but hopefully I'll have a chance to check soon.

 

Any ideas?

TIA

 

Occam's razor. Simplest thing is usually right. The simplest thing would be the reservoir is low and there is now some air in the hydraulic system. Low fluid means that it leaked out somewhere. Again likely the slave so have a look for wetness down there.

 

What to do?

 

Well you can refill and bleed the air out but with a leak this is just a stop gap fix. If the slave is wet and leaking it will need a rebuild or replacement.

 

Yes the lines or the master could be leaking but less likely.

The dogleg clutch arm doesn't have an adjustment nut on it... unless the 510 arm was used. Again an adjustment is less likely.

[Boaty]

Bad slave.

 

Ask me how I know? I've done a double-digit quantity of replacements on my 510.

 

First pump would be mushy, if you quickly pump (not full depressions) and it suddenly gains a bit of pressure, then if you move the pedal any it starts losing it? Done this more times than I care to admit.

 

I've had some that puke fluid, some that don't. The majority leaked, which is a dead giveaway. But some of them just accumulated air, so that I could continuously bleed it and almost always get air (usually foam). And no, it wasn't a bad master cylinder for 8 years.

[Boaty]

Forgot to mention, in your case... I'd bleed and see if you have air in the system.

If you don't, I'd suggest replacing master & slave cylinders. And even if one portion is still good, rest assured they are new. :)

[The Dat-side]

Thanks guys. I figured it'd be a simple fix but thought I'd hear what you thought. This prob only happened cause I cleaned the garage. I like your idea Boaty, I'd like to slowly replace things with new.

[metalmonkey47]

BLEED BLEED BLEED and go from there. Like everyone above said, start with the easiest. This will save you money/time.

 

If money is no issue, then get yourself a new slave and master.

 

 

 

 

If it comes down to it, do NOT buy your clutch slave from Autozone. The manufacturer uses tiny seals that leak pressure.

Edited February 26, 2012 by metalmonkey47

[The Dat-side]

Thanks Monkey. If I do decide to go ahead and replace it, where do you suggest? Does Nissan still sell them, anyone know?

[metalmonkey47]

Thanks Monkey. If I do decide to go ahead and replace it, where do you suggest? Does Nissan still sell them, anyone know?

 

I'd say if anywhere, go napa. I'll look into our manufacturer so you know who to watch out for.

 

Beck/Arnley worked pretty well when I used them (rock auto)

[b3y0ndd34th]

Did you fix this, what was the issue, my car did this today when I left for work as well :( Seems our datsun's disapprove of our working :P. Anyway I'm going to go bleed my slave and order a new slave from rock auto. I have no idea when the clutch was replaced last, but I'm fully prepared to order a clutch kit too :)

 

I bleed my slave cylinder I have some peddle butt not as much as I would like, I'm going to look into replacing the cylinder soon.

[metalmonkey47]

Did you fix this, what was the issue, my car did this today when I left for work as well :( Seems our datsun's disapprove of our working :P. Anyway I'm going to go bleed my slave and order a new slave from rock auto. I have no idea when the clutch was replaced last, but I'm fully prepared to order a clutch kit too :)

 

I bleed my slave cylinder I have some peddle butt not as much as I would like, I'm going to look into replacing the cylinder soon.

 

^^good steps taken so far. Might as well order a new clutch line as well, should be a VERY cheap one.

[The Dat-side]

Fluid got low. The day before I was thinking I'd check but convinced myself i'd do it later. I just topped it off and bleed it. Going to prob replace the master and slave sooner than later. Prob through napa.

 

Peddle seems about the same as the last two years I've been driving it. This is my first older car so still not sure how these are supposed to feel.

[ratchet]

our cars must all be "sync'd" up and leaking together... (clutchstruating?)

 

what manufacturer is recommended for replacement? I use vatozone for damn near everything since we have one a block from my house :P

and I like the rewards program :thumbup:

[banzai510(hainz)]

Nabco and Tokico Japan. Be a black cast steel iron unit.

If aluminum most like a taiwan ir italy unit.

Use the rubber seal as protects against water as they rust ou from inside then seal gets ruined.

if Taiwan/Italy made maybe get 2 or 3 as I go thru them in 5years.

Brake/clutch Hydralic stuff also.

 

I have seen both inside Beck Arnely boxed slaves.

 

 

[paradoxx]

I had my slave tokico changed last december (after 15years?), because it had her last days. Got a korean aluminum one but I didnt used the seals from that one, instead I bought a Seiken seal kit. I have always trusted Seiken.