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I have a 1967 1600 with an L18 swap. My son took it upon himself to remove the cylinder head without setting the first cylinder to TDC, and without blocking the timing chain, so it now will not clear the cam (I was thinking if we got it back on just the way it came off it would be ok, maybe still a possibility).

 

So now I need to remove the front cover to get the timing chain hooked up again. I have been watching this video series:

 

but he starts from the beginning with the entire engine in TDC on no 1 hole. Does anyone have any resources for someone looking to reassemble an engine without being in TDC? Not sure how to proceed from here. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

No manual. 42 links from the indent on the lower sprocket, then I need to rotate the cam so the no 2 mark meets that link (42 up from the indent), putting the head in TDC. Am I interpreting that correctly?

 

 

yup thats it,and on the rear of the cam gear there is a v notch,and on the thrust plate the is a (- ) the V should be centered to the (-)

 

 

Edit*

only thing I could find in a quick search.

0900c1528004f28a.jpg

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I set my block to TDC by having the key of the crank point at 12 o'clock on the block (make sure piston 1 is at the top). This is with the cover off. Set the front 2 lobes of the cam to 10&2. Place head on block. Attach chain, making sure to either follow gold links or the number of links. Add the tensioner. To get the cover back onto the motor now, you will need to slightly drop the front of the oil pan, or risk damaging the gaskets. It is wise to add a dab of RTV in the corners of the timing cover where it meets the block and oilpan/head

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You have got to get the engine to TDC. I am not sure if you can turn the crankshaft fully through 360 degrees without turning the camshaft, I think that if a valve is fully open, it is possible a piston may hit the valve, and bend the valve stem.

 

let me define "straight up" for the camshaft and crankshaft keys for the next part of this information. Ignore the fact that the L-engine is tilted when in the vehicle. "Straight up" has the crankshaft key exactly in line with center of the camshaft, and if you continue this line beyond the center of the canshaft, the line will go through the center of the dowel pin in the camshaft. both the crankshaft key up, and camshaft dowel up. Number 1 TDC, firing stroke.

 

The crankshaft key points straight up at TDC. TDC for #1, and #4 occur together, it is not until the camshaft, and cam chain are installed that #1 TDC becomes #1 TDC.

 

With the camshaft in the head, #1 TDC happens when the dowel on the front of the camshaft is straight up.

 

with both crankshaft, and camshaft in the engine at #1 TDC, the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket have 42 links on the timing chain between them.

 

With the engine at TDC #1, you should be able to look through the camshaft sprocket, and see the slot in the camshaft thrust plate line up with the notch on the back of the camshaft sprocket.

 

Before putting the front cover on the engine, after putting the timing chain on, with the spark plugs out of the engine, try to turn the engine by hand two complete revolutions, to make sure the engine does not bind up. It the camshaft is in wrong, the engine may stop near TDC, and near BDC if the engine stops, do not force it past the point it binds up. Find out why it stopped.

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Put the tensioner back together and put a zip tie on it. That way you aren't fighting it while trying to line things up. Once it's together, cut the zip tie and pull it out.

 

TDC #1 is the same crankshaft position as TDC#4. Make sure your at TDC#1 by pulling the dist cap and making sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire. At this point the cam lobe's for #1 should be close to 10:00 and 2:00.

 

GENTLY rotate the motor by hand. Dont hit the key to see if you did it right. Good luck.

 

 

P.S. man you guys type fast.

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You are all so wonderful, this is all so very helpful. If I can manage to get the front cover off without killing myself, I think I may have a shot at getting this done without paying through the nose. Any additional info or phtos will be appreciated, but I believe I may have enough to complete.

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Guest 510kamikazifreak

You are all so wonderful, this is all so very helpful. If I can manage to get the front cover off without killing myself, I think I may have a shot at getting this done without paying through the nose. Any additional info or phtos will be appreciated, but I believe I may have enough to complete.

 

 

When pulling the t-cover drop the oil pump first,there is a 10mm bolt that some people tend to not see,thus ending up cracking the t-cover.

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I guess I could have made the vedio EZer to understand

 

 

put head on at TDC.

To do this when it might not be at TDc youll have to move the cam. this will be hard since it not on a engine block as the valave springs are giivng resisitance. What I would do is put the motor block so piston are half way down. Put head on block and put 2 head bolts to hold it and turn the cam with a wrench or However you want. Done Take head off

 

Put block to TDC. You can gently put the timming cover back on to find the TDC mark on crank and front cover.

 

If you dont have the brite links on chain put the chain on tight as you can then rotate counter clock wise on crank then turn clock wise to Zero on crank . If cam mark line up to that V notch its timmed

 

if you have a new chain is pretty much self evident on how to line it up.

 

If you have a stock L20 the factory put it at 2 on sprocket.

If you have a l16/18 you can put to #1 or 2 if you like.

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