Wisk Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Let me start by saying you dont need 1000 lbs rear springs. Thats ridiculous! I am simply saying the car can perform a hell of a lot better with some great suspension. They are not just a good looking but also will out perform just about anything out there. If you go see Tod Kaneko's Datsun 510 that is always on Time Attack you would see what JRZ's can do. I am just a firm believer in results which makes it easier for me to loosen up my wallet. I am not trying to be a smart ass & would appreciate if you werent also. No need for that B.S. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 5, 2012 Report Share Posted June 5, 2012 Yer right. You don't even need aftermarket springs. A 510 with stock springs, carefully adjusted (lowered, etc), can outcorner a VW if driven correctly. Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 it all comes down to driver skill. you can spend 10k on the suspension of a car but if youre a shitty driver, youre stilll a shitty driver Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Let me start by saying you dont need 1000 lbs rear springs. Thats ridiculous! I am simply saying the car can perform a hell of a lot better with some great suspension. They are not just a good looking but also will out perform just about anything out there. If you go see Tod Kaneko's Datsun 510 that is always on Time Attack you would see what JRZ's can do. I am just a firm believer in results which makes it easier for me to loosen up my wallet. I am not trying to be a smart ass & would appreciate if you werent also. No need for that B.S. You are thinking effective rate VS real rate, 1000lb rear spring is like 300lb or something effective rate because of how the stock trailing arm spring mount works! Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted June 10, 2012 Report Share Posted June 10, 2012 Yes the 510 rear control arms are a very sub optimal design. Many racers use up to 1400lb springs in the 510 rear suspension. When lowered a lot the effective rate of the springs drops off very quickly, but effective rate starts around 1/3 of the advertised rate of the spring for a stock ride height. Once you put that strong of a spring in a non caged Datsun, you have to wonder what that is doing to the poor old chassis.... Quote Link to comment
q-tip Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 The 510 chassis are suprisingly stiff, thats part of their good handleing characteristics. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Ratsun gurus say lowering increases the spring rate. So no worries. Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 Once the rear control arms pass horizontal, that is not the case with the spring rate. Maybe a 510 is stiff compared to a z...but that isn't saying much lol Quote Link to comment
Z chopper Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 must resist...must resist... ah hell, driving lessons would fix the calamity Quote Link to comment
shoom Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 and remember coil-overs aren't the be all end-all of handling . I remember reading a magazine article that the author wrote regarding his own vehicle. He had a FD Mazda RX7 and had spent big $ on carbon fenders, ground effects, spoilers 400 + hp turbo rotor etc and getting to the point a big name coilover package. He had tracked the thing , dragged it and thought it was the bees knees. He was invited to participate in a run-what-you-brung motorkhana at a local car show and much to his disdain he was spanked by a toyota AE101 corolla levin and could not get within over 1 second of it's time in a slalom course. When he managed to to catch up with the owner to find out what he was running (expecting to hear of some mega dollar competition suspension setup), he was dismayed to find that it was only running a decent Japanese shock , spring and swaybay combo (no coilovers) and to add further fuel to the fire , he managed to score a ride in the car and found it was nice and smooth to drive even over bumps, not at all bone jarring shake your teeth out like his mazda had become and something he could easily drive every day which he was no longer doing with the mazda. So the end game is you don't have to spend a fortune on suspension if the setup is balanced, and coilovers aren't always the instant cure-all solution people on certain newschool JDM forums especially lol like to make out. I suggest reading or borrowing books like : competition car suspension , how to make your car HANDLE etc. and set your castor , camber and toe-in too, it's almost free to do and you'll be amazed at the difference! you can do it with string lines and chalk, theres too many methods to list actually. Here's a couple of links to get you going : http://www.ozclubbies.com.au/index.php?/topic/4971-diy-toe-in-camber-and-castor/ (and if you have a trawl thru the forums on this site I'm sure you'll be able to set up your suspension any way you like it Warning : Locost forums may send car enthusiast after simple suspension info off track and actually corrupt mind into building one!) and http://www.joesracing.com/ (though you can do it on the cheap with your own contraptions, his stuff is pretty nice and simple to use , though on the spendy side!) hope some of this is of assistance to you! Quote Link to comment
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