Just Joel Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 So I'm relocating the battery in my 510 wagon using this method... I'm having trouble finding a 60a fuse holder for the 8g line running to the factory fuse panel and am wondering if I can use a 12g fusible link (like stock) to protect this line instead? I think it will look more factory under the hood and so long as I can properly protect the line I would like to go this route. Also, does the typical ford solenoid have specific poles or can I run the power in on either side? Also, which of the two terminals should I use for the switch wire? There are no markings on my solenoid and both corresponding terminals look identical... Looks like this... And is there a top and bottom for this solenoid as far as mounting position is concerned? Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Stop by an audio supply place ... (or cruise interwebs for products).... many times there is high amp fuses in variety selection ... they are built for in-line purpose ... Don't be using 12-gauge wire products substituted for 8-gauge wire products ... that's a no no. Look at their stock for fuses/junction boxes/etc... some of them have gauge adapters to re-route (audio). Circuit breaker systems could be used in place of fuses ... ;) Ford solenoid isn't going to care which way its mounted ... just how easy you want to get to the connections :D .... the way the solenoid is pictured is the way the solenoids are mounted on all the fords i have worked on.... battery positive fed on main right terminal ... far left main lug feeds starter .... secondary far right used for excite wire .... ^^^ of course that's all in the diagram .... :P .... :D Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Also remember to secure the battery ... in the event of a car rolling ... or getting hit on that side A plastic battery box ... in case the acid leaks ... and a metal frame around the rest in case of above ^^^ :) Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Stop by an audio supply place ... (or cruise interwebs for products).... many times there is high amp fuses in variety selection ... they are built for in-line purpose ... Don't be using 12-gauge wire products substituted for 8-gauge wire products ... that's a no no. Look at their stock for fuses/junction boxes/etc... some of them have gauge adapters to re-route (audio). Circuit breaker systems could be used in place of fuses ... ;) Ford solenoid isn't going to care which way its mounted ... just how easy you want to get to the connections :D .... the way the solenoid is pictured is the way the solenoids are mounted on all the fords i have worked on.... battery positive fed on main right terminal ... far left main lug feeds starter .... secondary far right used for excite wire .... ^^^ of course that's all in the diagram .... :P .... :D This is fusible link I'm talking about... Its supposed to be two gage sizes smaller than the wire it protects. I've found lots of fuse options, just not any I like the quality our the looks of. That and I'd like to keep things as nostalgic as possible under the hood... Does it matter what side the power comes in on for the solenoid? Its more covenant if I can bring it in on the left. Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted January 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Bump... Anyone? Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 Too make it a simple solution for your worries ... just turn the solenoid upside down and ground it ... :) ... ( originally secondary terminal stamped "s" goes to starter excite wire ... i don't see why it couldn't be reversed on main positive lugs ..... its all "+" hookup ... you can test with multimeters or when a fuse is connected.) ... in short you should be able to, just use corresponding lugs and good to go.... just test and be careful first :) Where are the pictures of the fusible link that is suppose to be two sizes smaller ? I am interested :huh: I can understand wishing to make things oem looking ;) ... but remember our datsuns are prone to electrical gremlins, so a suttle mild fuse upgrade.option might work best for you. Just the path i would consider. I also am not a fan of really blingy looking electronic things or fuses in the engine bay ... or car ;) Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 I don't run a solanoid in my car and if you are running a non sealed battery you should have a seald battery box. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Odysee 1200 sealed battery ;) Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Too make it a simple solution for your worries ... just turn the solenoid upside down and ground it ... :) ... ( originally secondary terminal stamped "s" goes to starter excite wire ... i don't see why it couldn't be reversed on main positive lugs ..... its all "+" hookup ... you can test with multimeters or when a fuse is connected.) ... in short you should be able to, just use corresponding lugs and good to go.... just test and be careful first :) Where are the pictures of the fusible link that is suppose to be two sizes smaller ? I am interested :huh: I can understand wishing to make things oem looking ;) ... but remember our datsuns are prone to electrical gremlins, so a suttle mild fuse upgrade.option might work best for you. Just the path i would consider. I also am not a fan of really blingy looking electronic things or fuses in the engine bay ... or car ;) Cool... I'll figure on running the solenoid as I have it and test it once its energized. Here's what wiki has on fusible link... http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusible_link 510 use them for the line running power to the coil and the line from the fuse panel to the starter/battery lug. From what I've read, it looks like link is perfect for this application but I wanted to hear from an expert before I make a decision. Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
Ant-dat Posted January 24, 2012 Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 when i did my 810, i used 2 trip switches and some light gauge welding wire. I connected all the wires inside the car to the first trip switch. And the battery lead coming from the trunk to trip switch. This allowed me to do away with the fusable links etc you can just see it below the hinge Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted January 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2012 Well after reading a lot this evening, I've decided to do away with the fusible link and use this... http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/productline/overview/127 Maxi fuses are a slow burn like fusible link but are more predictable and with modern convenience. ;) That and this holder is made by a quality company I've used before and its not to hard to look at either. Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 Don't do it! Run a negative cable all the way forward and bolt securely to the engine. It will save you headaches in years to come. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 Well after reading a lot this evening, I've decided to do away with the fusible link and use this... http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/productline/overview/127 Maxi fuses are a slow burn like fusible link but are more predictable and with modern convenience. ;) That and this holder is made by a quality company I've used before and its not to hard to look at either. Thanks Joel Nice choice on the maxi fuse block :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted January 25, 2012 Report Share Posted January 25, 2012 Don't do it! Run a negative cable all the way forward and bolt securely to the engine. It will save you headaches in years to come. X2 Quote Link to comment
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