engine swap help needed

[j72]

i really want to swap my engine for something stronger, im running stock engine on my 73- 620...

what would be an easy swap for this model? something that dont requirer cutting..or different transmission, im just new to all this.. but im willing to do the work and get some headaches.......all i need its more power on my truck. THANKS.

[Skib]

built up L20B

 

looks like its time to hit the books and do your research.

[Eagle_Adam]

i wouldnt do an engine swap if this is your first endeavor into a datto - find a peanut head and a weber carb and go from there

[albyneau]

i really want to swap my engine for something stronger, im running stock engine on my 73- 620...

what would be an easy swap for this model? something that dont requirer cutting..or different transmission, im just new to all this.. but im willing to do the work and get some headaches.......all i need its more power on my truck. THANKS.

 

Welcome aboard!

 

We need more infoto what your end result is besides "more power", lest you'll get vague answers like above. Nothing wrong with those answers, mind you~ in fact they're both right! Gotta keep it running? Go with Adam's idea. Straight bolt-in~ follow Skib's advice.

 

My 2 cents? Depends on your desired outcome. Are you just looking to get down the road a little easier/quicker, or do you use this like a truck? The easiest cheapest motor swap would be the L20B~ a direct bolt-in affair. The most bang for your buck regarding a bolt-in adventure (and the term is used loosely here) is the poorly regarded and misunderstood Z24. It would require some additional mods~ intake & exhaust hookups, oilpan~ that kinda stuff. I apologize in advance if your thread turns into a debate on this matter~ KA supporters will likely retaliate en masse. Back on subject.... The KA is a great engine~ it makes about 10hp/10ftlbs more power than the Z24~ largely due to a superior head design. But the KA has to spin nearly twice the rpm (4400) to beat out the Z's numbers (2400)~ who's peak torque is at a real-world operating rpm of 2400. Just in case you're not familiar with the term, Volumetric Efficiency (VE) is the point at which all the engine's breathing parts (cam, head, induction) come together and "cooperate" at their best. Peak torque occurs at peak VE, and where you'll be in the sweet spot for power and economy. The Z is nearly identical to the L block, save the head; the KA would be a swap adventure, and is not bolt in.

 

Another possibility is putting a Z24 crank into an L20B to get that monster stroke~ nearly 4". This is highly involved engine build, and I won't put all the details here, but once the motor's finished you'd have the ultimate L-series sleeper motor~ and it'd be a direct bolt-in (need some different clutch parts tho). Imagine having a 2.4L stroker motor that looks like the stocker...:D If you're not mechanically inclined avoid this one, or farm out the engine build to your machine shop or other competant engine builder.

 

Dig for more info~ and make an informed decision.

 

Off to work~

Scott

[wayno]

i really want to swap my engine for something stronger, im running stock engine on my 73- 620...

what would be an easy swap for this model? something that dont requirer cutting..or different transmission, im just new to all this.. but im willing to do the work and get some headaches.......all i need its more power on my truck. THANKS.

 

The best upgrade without a lot of hassle is the L20b, best upgrade I ever had made to that date, I made a few more modifacations, like a SU package and a W53 head with bigger valves with some intake porting, but that engine served me well for over 10 years.

I would have been fine with the stock L20b, stock head, and a weber, as it has way more power than a L16. Welcome to Ratsun

[wayno]

Welcome aboard!

 

We need more infoto what your end result is besides "more power", lest you'll get vague answers like above. Nothing wrong with those answers, mind you~ in fact they're both right! Gotta keep it running? Go with Adam's idea. Straight bolt-in~ follow Skib's advice.

 

My 2 cents? Depends on your desired outcome. Are you just looking to get down the road a little easier/quicker, or do you use this like a truck? The easiest cheapest motor swap would be the L20B~ a direct bolt-in affair. The most bang for your buck regarding a bolt-in adventure (and the term is used loosely here) is the poorly regarded and misunderstood Z24. It would require some additional mods~ intake & exhaust hookups, oilpan~ that kinda stuff. I apologize in advance if your thread turns into a debate on this matter~ KA supporters will likely retaliate en masse. Back on subject.... The KA is a great engine~ it makes about 10hp/10ftlbs more power than the Z24~ largely due to a superior head design. But the KA has to spin nearly twice the rpm (4400) to beat out the Z's numbers (2400)~ who's peak torque is at a real-world operating rpm of 2400. Just in case you're not familiar with the term, Volumetric Efficiency (VE) is the point at which all the engine's breathing parts (cam, head, induction) come together and "cooperate" at their best. Peak torque occurs at peak VE, and where you'll be in the sweet spot for power and economy. The Z is nearly identical to the L block, save the head; the KA would be a swap adventure, and is not bolt in.

 

Another possibility is putting a Z24 crank into an L20B to get that monster stroke~ nearly 4". This is highly involved engine build, and I won't put all the details here, but once the motor's finished you'd have the ultimate L-series sleeper motor~ and it'd be a direct bolt-in (need some different clutch parts tho). Imagine having a 2.4L stroker motor that looks like the stocker...:D If you're not mechanically inclined avoid this one, or farm out the engine build to your machine shop or other competant engine builder.

 

Dig for more info~ and make an informed decision.

 

Off to work~

Scott

 

 

I wish I had known about this "2.4L" before I built my LZ23, I have searched this and found nothing, it couldn't even find your referance to it.

This interests me a lot, what about a Z22 block with a Z24 crank, what rods, what pistons(bored out)? This will have way more torque than I have now, which is what I want, I rarely go over 4000rpms. You have a shortcut/link to something I can read? Thankyou

[EricJB]

Hey Wayno, Stuck in the snow today? In the engine section there is a sticky called Jason Gray info. Also google Ben PIla 2.4 build. The Z24 crank isn't a drop in deal. the counterweights have to be turned down to clear the block, and piston skirts on BDC The formula as far as I know is Z22 block/ Z24 crank/ Z22 or l20 rods/ Z24 pistons slightly milled. I will be doing one of these soon, but I want to use 1mm over forged KA24 pistons milled to clear just the quench pad and try spraying it a bit. That would be a 2443cc. Dont know if it all adds up yet, I might be talking out my ass. But it keeps my mind occupied during my mind numbing work. Stay warm.

[datzenmike]

i really want to swap my engine for something stronger, im running stock engine on my 73- 620...

what would be an easy swap for this model? something that dont requirer cutting..or different transmission, im just new to all this.. but im willing to do the work and get some headaches.......all i need its more power on my truck. THANKS.

 

Replacing the head, carb and intake will give a few hp but won't beat an L20B swap. There is no replacement for displacement, was true in the 60s and is still true today. The L20B drops right in and is just the older brother of the L16 and outwardly looks identical. The L20B has 12.5% more displacement and longer stroke so it will far out torque the L16 at all speeds.

[wayno]

Hey Wayno, Stuck in the snow today? In the engine section there is a sticky called Jason Gray info. Also google Ben PIla 2.4 build. The Z24 crank isn't a drop in deal. the counterweights have to be turned down to clear the block, and piston skirts on BDC The formula as far as I know is Z22 block/ Z24 crank/ Z22 or l20 rods/ Z24 pistons slightly milled. I will be doing one of these soon, but I want to use 1mm over forged KA24 pistons milled to clear just the quench pad and try spraying it a bit. That would be a 2443cc. Dont know if it all adds up yet, I might be talking out my ass. But it keeps my mind occupied during my mind numbing work. Stay warm.

 

 

We did not get the snow you received, a couple inches at the most in the middle of the night, no big deal, most of the drivers that have not a clue how to drive in snow were asleep, which is good. If it gets bad, I just chain up all 4 tires and go where I need to go.

I actually went to the Jason Gray sticky first, but only got so far before coming to the conclusion that I don't speak french, I got further this time, and I am thinking it might be easier to just use a Z24 block/crank and find a chain, and fabricate a upper timing cover piece, or just get over my fear of the newer better engines, and there wiring issues.

[docbainey]

i really want to swap my engine for something stronger, im running stock engine on my 73- 620...

what would be an easy swap for this model? something that dont requirer cutting..or different transmission, im just new to all this.. but im willing to do the work and get some headaches.......all i need its more power on my truck. THANKS.

 

The cheapest, easiest thing would be to drop in a L20. If you're not happy with that, then you can have headaches, think VG30.

[Jeffy]

Hey there! I'm going to do the same thing! I've got a 73 620 with an L16 and a 78 200sz parts car with a complete L20b and dead auto trans. Can I bolt the 620 4 speed tranny up to the L20B? I'm guessing I'll need a new flywheel, pressure plate and T/O bearing? Sounds like everything else is the same?

 

Thanks!

[datzenmike]

You will need a 6 bolt (mounting as the L16 is 5 bolt) flywheel. Try for one from an L20B car as this will fit a 200mm clutch/pressure plate an you can use the same one that is on the L16. If all you can find are 225mm flywheels, you will need to buy or find a matching 225mm clutch assembly and release bearing collar. The collar on the L16 won't work as it's matched to the 200nn clutch.

[lil89ram50]

i wouldnt do an engine swap if this is your first endeavor into a datto - find a peanut head and a weber carb and go from there

 

i wouldnt do this if you are new to datsuns.

 

it would be easier and cheaper for you to put in an l20b. A good, known running motor. These motors are so easy to remove/replace. It is much harder and time consuming to replace the head alone. More expensive too. You should be able to find a good l20b for under 300 bux.

 

A good closed chamber head, weber, and intake are going to cost about, if not more than that.

Then you have to buy gaskets to install.

You will more than likely drop the timing chain and pop the tensioner.

While your fixing that, might as well put new chain and guides in it too. Now, when your all said and done, after struggling for 2 days, you will have more money droped into the stock motor and still have less power than swapping to a stock l20b.

 

good luck man, and have fun with your datto!

[tr8er]

The L series swap is not rocket science. This was my first engine swap. Me and my wife did the swap with no help other than the Internet. And that was before Ratsun. You've got Ratsun behind ya, so no worries. Follow the advice all written up already, and you should be able to do this solo. Just make sure you have a second car so you can go the the store to buy that odd sized wrench or screw extractor you need. And careful with those exhaust manifold bolts!