j72 Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 after lowering my 620 i end up with the following issue; rear; 3 inch blocks front; torsion bar problem; passenger side looks lower that driver side.. should i remove front rubber stoppers? should i replace torsion bar bolts? what do i have to do to make it look even? any help friends!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 (edited) Take out the rear blocks. Those things ruin leafs. Go find a 4x4 720 and use the rear leafs out of that. They're good for about 2 inches of drop. Make some shackles and you'll have a more legit rear suspension. I THINK you can use longer bolts for the torsion bar. Not 100%. Make sure you re-index your control arms by the way, or you'll trash the bushings. Also, don't remove the bump stops. Just trim them a bit. Also for the rear you can get a pair of air shocks from Autozone for $70 that will give you the ability to adjust your rear ride height to match the front without turning a bolt. Just add air! Edited January 16, 2012 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Tighten the pass. side torsion bar up a little, drive a little, repeat till level. Quote Link to comment
j72 Posted January 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 Take out the rear blocks. Those things ruin leafs. Go find a 4x4 720 and use the rear leafs out of that. They're good for about 2 inches of drop. Make some shackles and you'll have a more legit rear suspension. I THINK you can use longer bolts for the torsion bar. Not 100%. Make sure you re-index your control arms by the way, or you'll trash the bushings. Also, don't remove the bump stops. Just trim them a bit. Also for the rear you can get a pair of air shocks from Autozone for $70 that will give you the ability to adjust your rear ride height to match the front without turning a bolt. Just add air! thanks thanks for all the help, however,what you mean with "re-index control arms'..... Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 thanks thanks for all the help, however,what you mean with "re-index control arms'..... Loosen the drive and passenger control arms at ride height, and re-torque. This will prevent over extending them since they were torqued with the original ride height in mind. It's just a matter of loosening them and re-torquing them which allows them to adjust to the new ride height. Bushings only have so much travel and by lowering the truck they go out of their "range" thus shortening their life. Re-indexing them allows for the new ride height while keeping the bushings within "range". Quoted directly from Nico Club. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted January 16, 2012 Report Share Posted January 16, 2012 NEVER Remove Bumpstops You Shouldn't Need To Change Any Bolts For The Torsion Bars Not A Good Idea To Use Lowering Blocks/Shims If You're Going To Lower It... Do It Right A Mild 2"-3"/Functional/Cheap Drop Is Simple The Front, Adjust To Desired Height, Adjust Camber, And KYB Shocks... You're Done The Rear 4x4 Leafs, Load-Ajusting Shocks... Done If You Want A 5" Drop... That's Different.... No Matter What You Have To Keep The Suspension Or Else It's Not Safe And You'll Look Like A Dumbass Front... Section Shock Towers 2", Run Pinto KYB's, And Energy Short Bumpstops (NEVER Remove Bumpstops) Adjust Height And Camber Exhaust.... Redo It Over X-Member Rear... "C"-Notch Frame, Load-Adjusting Shocks, Section Shock Mounts 2", 4x4 Springs, Adjust Pinion Angle Quote Link to comment
j72 Posted January 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 NEVER Remove Bumpstops You Shouldn't Need To Change Any Bolts For The Torsion Bars Not A Good Idea To Use Lowering Blocks/Shims If You're Going To Lower It... Do It Right A Mild 2"-3"/Functional/Cheap Drop Is Simple The Front, Adjust To Desired Height, Adjust Camber, And KYB Shocks... You're Done The Rear 4x4 Leafs, Load-Ajusting Shocks... Done If You Want A 5" Drop... That's Different.... No Matter What You Have To Keep The Suspension Or Else It's Not Safe And You'll Look Like A Dumbass Front... Section Shock Towers 2", Run Pinto KYB's, And Energy Short Bumpstops (NEVER Remove Bumpstops) Adjust Height And Camber Exhaust.... Redo It Over X-Member Rear... "C"-Notch Frame, Load-Adjusting Shocks, Section Shock Mounts 2", 4x4 Springs, Adjust Pinion Angle i like the first option...my question is,what kind/make truck 4x4 leafs we are talking about...any 4x4? Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 i like the first option...my question is,what kind/make truck 4x4 leafs we are talking about...any 4x4? 720 4x4 the bodystyle after your truck Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted January 17, 2012 Report Share Posted January 17, 2012 Loosen the drive and passenger control arms at ride height, and re-torque. Quoted directly from Nico Club. That's NOT re-indexing thats re-torquing them,re-indexing is moving the torsion mount up 1 "Click" to get the factory ride with lowering THIS IS RE-INDEXING http://www.bleachgarage.com/620tech_spn.html Quote Link to comment
620Soldier Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 720 4x4 the bodystyle after your truck So I would guess that you would want the 720 springs as close yo your own year? Much priceyer than some whooptie drop blocks, but I think I would rather do this in the long run. Quote Link to comment
Gary Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 ive removed bumpstops front and rear, also fitted kyb shocks front and rear. over uneven roads it feels a little like im running chopped springs but normal driving is fine, bit uncomfortable but ive had a lot worse i reindexed torsion bars and wound it out as low as i could (i think about a 5" drop). to do this you need to pull each of the retaining arms for the torsion bars out a little, turn them and put them back in so theyve moved one or two notches over. the torsion bar is splined so its easier to get them rotated the same. then tighten using the bolts like normal to preload them enough to do their job i also pulled one leaf out of each pack and had the rest flattened/de arched (2") and ive made 2" steel blocks and got some longer u bolts. i hauled 500kg in the back like this and diff didnt hit frame, nor did my springs explode like some said they would. handled it just fine 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 I use 3 inch block in back no proplem. Belltech 6202 with 2deg rake perfect fit. front if uneven adjust the torsion bar in out till its right bolt unscrewin out goes LOWER Tighte goes back UP SIMPLE!!!!!!!!!!! Noting wrong with BLOCKs. 4x4s use them. i wouldndt go more than 3 inch . 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Tighten the pass. side torsion bar up a little, drive a little, repeat till level. front if uneven adjust the torsion bar in out till its right bolt unscrewin out goes LOWER Tighte goes back UP SIMPLE!!!!!!!!!!! THIS!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment
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