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pl620 lowering issues

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after lowering my 620 i end up with the following issue;

rear; 3 inch blocks

front; torsion bar

problem; passenger side looks lower that driver side..

 

should i remove front rubber stoppers?

should i replace torsion bar bolts?

 

what do i have to do to make it look even?

 

any help friends!!!!

 

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Take out the rear blocks. Those things ruin leafs. Go find a 4x4 720 and use the rear leafs out of that. They're good for about 2 inches of drop. Make some shackles and you'll have a more legit rear suspension.

 

 

 

I THINK you can use longer bolts for the torsion bar. Not 100%. Make sure you re-index your control arms by the way, or you'll trash the bushings.

 

Also, don't remove the bump stops. Just trim them a bit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also for the rear you can get a pair of air shocks from Autozone for $70 that will give you the ability to adjust your rear ride height to match the front without turning a bolt. Just add air!

Edited by metalmonkey47

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Take out the rear blocks. Those things ruin leafs. Go find a 4x4 720 and use the rear leafs out of that. They're good for about 2 inches of drop. Make some shackles and you'll have a more legit rear suspension.

 

 

 

I THINK you can use longer bolts for the torsion bar. Not 100%. Make sure you re-index your control arms by the way, or you'll trash the bushings.

 

Also, don't remove the bump stops. Just trim them a bit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also for the rear you can get a pair of air shocks from Autozone for $70 that will give you the ability to adjust your rear ride height to match the front without turning a bolt. Just add air!

 

thanks

 

 

thanks for all the help, however,what you mean with "re-index control arms'.....

 

 

 

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thanks

 

 

thanks for all the help, however,what you mean with "re-index control arms'.....

 

 

 

 

Loosen the drive and passenger control arms at ride height, and re-torque.

 

This will prevent over extending them since they were torqued with the original ride height in mind. It's just a matter of loosening them and re-torquing them which allows them to adjust to the new ride height. Bushings only have so much travel and by lowering the truck they go out of their "range" thus shortening their life. Re-indexing them allows for the new ride height while keeping the bushings within "range".

 

Quoted directly from Nico Club.

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NEVER Remove Bumpstops

You Shouldn't Need To Change Any Bolts For The Torsion Bars

Not A Good Idea To Use Lowering Blocks/Shims

If You're Going To Lower It... Do It Right

 

 

A Mild 2"-3"/Functional/Cheap Drop Is Simple

 

 

The Front, Adjust To Desired Height, Adjust Camber, And KYB Shocks... You're Done

 

The Rear 4x4 Leafs, Load-Ajusting Shocks... Done

 

 

If You Want A 5" Drop... That's Different.... No Matter What You Have To Keep The Suspension

Or Else It's Not Safe And You'll Look Like A Dumbass

 

 

Front... Section Shock Towers 2", Run Pinto KYB's, And Energy Short Bumpstops (NEVER Remove Bumpstops)

Adjust Height And Camber

 

Exhaust.... Redo It Over X-Member

 

Rear... "C"-Notch Frame, Load-Adjusting Shocks, Section Shock Mounts 2", 4x4 Springs, Adjust Pinion Angle

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NEVER Remove Bumpstops

You Shouldn't Need To Change Any Bolts For The Torsion Bars

Not A Good Idea To Use Lowering Blocks/Shims

If You're Going To Lower It... Do It Right

 

 

A Mild 2"-3"/Functional/Cheap Drop Is Simple

 

 

The Front, Adjust To Desired Height, Adjust Camber, And KYB Shocks... You're Done

 

The Rear 4x4 Leafs, Load-Ajusting Shocks... Done

 

 

If You Want A 5" Drop... That's Different.... No Matter What You Have To Keep The Suspension

Or Else It's Not Safe And You'll Look Like A Dumbass

 

 

Front... Section Shock Towers 2", Run Pinto KYB's, And Energy Short Bumpstops (NEVER Remove Bumpstops)

Adjust Height And Camber

 

Exhaust.... Redo It Over X-Member

 

Rear... "C"-Notch Frame, Load-Adjusting Shocks, Section Shock Mounts 2", 4x4 Springs, Adjust Pinion Angle

 

i like the first option...my question is,what kind/make truck 4x4 leafs we are talking about...any 4x4?

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Guest kamakazi620

i like the first option...my question is,what kind/make truck 4x4 leafs we are talking about...any 4x4?

720 4x4 the bodystyle after your truck

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720 4x4 the bodystyle after your truck

So I would guess that you would want the 720 springs as close yo your own year?

Much priceyer than some whooptie drop blocks, but I think I would rather do this in the long run.

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ive removed bumpstops front and rear, also fitted kyb shocks front and rear. over uneven roads it feels a little like im running chopped springs but normal driving is fine, bit uncomfortable but ive had a lot worse

 

i reindexed torsion bars and wound it out as low as i could (i think about a 5" drop). to do this you need to pull each of the retaining arms for the torsion bars out a little, turn them and put them back in so theyve moved one or two notches over. the torsion bar is splined so its easier to get them rotated the same. then tighten using the bolts like normal to preload them enough to do their job

 

i also pulled one leaf out of each pack and had the rest flattened/de arched (2") and ive made 2" steel blocks and got some longer u bolts. i hauled 500kg in the back like this and diff didnt hit frame, nor did my springs explode like some said they would. handled it just fine

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I use 3 inch block in back no proplem. Belltech 6202 with 2deg rake perfect fit.

 

front if uneven adjust the torsion bar in out till its right bolt unscrewin out goes LOWER

Tighte goes back UP

SIMPLE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Noting wrong with BLOCKs. 4x4s use them. i wouldndt go more than 3 inch .

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Tighten the pass. side torsion bar up a little, drive a little, repeat till level.

 

 

front if uneven adjust the torsion bar in out till its right bolt unscrewin out goes LOWER

Tighte goes back UP

SIMPLE!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

THIS!!!!

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