Sealik Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Power steering for an L20b, is it stock? I would like to see photos of that, or is it just napZ stuff bolted on despite the L20b timing chain cover and differances in the head? Z24 PS assembly on the LZ23....no diff on fit with either Z or L TC cover Fittings removed....Screwdriver and hose denote (possible 'migration'... :D ) flow. Connecting the IM to that brass plug won't allow any flow (both are connected to the head) it will need to be spliced into the line going down to the lower rad inlet. Hmmmmm...guess I'll stick with Plan A..... :lol: Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Alright well I would love to avoid extra T's and hose clamps but if i have to have it... I'll figure it out ;) Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Now... anyone have a clever solution for hooking up the crank case breather to the pcv? Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Fittings removed....Screwdriver and hose denote (possible 'migration'... :D ) flow. Now lets look at this for a sec... are you considering going in one side of the thermostat housing and back out the other to the IM? Why wouldn't that work? Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 The larger opening from the head will dominate while the tiny hose and holes in the intake will be restrictive. If spliced in at a tee they are similar size pipes. Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Just got my SU's and manifold in the mail today. But I've got L16, so already have a line to the IM. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 But the factory line for a single down draft IM wont work anymore ;) the line for my l20b and my old l16 are the same... the hard line is to long to still make a reliable connection to the IM and maintain the "t" for the thermostat housing un its current location. Later Joel Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 The larger opening from the head will dominate while the tiny hose and holes in the intake will be restrictive. If spliced in at a tee they are similar size pipes. Copy that... after posting, I thought about it for a second and considered that as a potential problem. Later Joel Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Z24 PS assembly on the LZ23....no diff on fit with either Z or L TC cover Fittings removed....Screwdriver and hose denote (possible 'migration'... :D ) flow. Hmmmmm...guess I'll stick with Plan A..... :lol: I can see a bunch of clearance issues you are dealing with because of the napZ ajustment pulley, and it doesn't look like it just bolts up, you had to ad brackets, for lack of holes in the proper places. Is that a electronic ign. distributor? I think what has been said about the intake manifold piping has merit, the intake needs a lot of hot water going threw it, the thermostat housing needs just enough going threw it to empty the thermostat housing of cold water, if I had a choice in your situation, seeing the photos, I would scrap the bypass out of the thermostat housing and drill a hole in the thermostat itself and hope it works, if your water temp is not steady, then it isn't going to work, my water temp was all over the place with the L16 T -housing, but I did not have a hole in the thermostat either. Are you also running a electric fuel pump, as the PS pump/reservior looks to be in the way also, I went a differant route, I put the pump(hardbody type) on the drivers side low under the su intake with a remote reservior. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 This is what I did Just Joel, it isn't pretty, but it works. It is just some hose I spliced into the system, it has been there for over 10 years. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 I would love to drill a hole in the thermostat and do away with this entire headache but I havent heard from anyone that can say for sure this works reliably and free from flaws... only that its a "bandaid" fix :) Later Joel Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 This is what I did Just Joel, it isn't pretty, but it works. That would work fine but i modified the original crank case vent with my old vent to make it exit in the l16 location so i need something for a stock l16 setup. Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 All you can do is connect everything you need to make it run, which includes the air filters, fuel lines, water lines, choke cables, throddle cable, ect; then pipe something in that will work for your situation, the PCV doesn't pull a lot of air, so it is not likely to suck itself flat, what I would do is after everything is in, look at what you have for clearance, and go to the wreaking yard and just start looking for something the right size with the bends where you need them, note what the vehicle is if you want new later, take the hose home, cut to fit, and install it, and test for operation, then if you want new, go to the parts store and buy a new hose for that vehicle. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Exactly what I plan to do... just wanted to see if someone had already done the leg work ;) Thanks joel Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 A lot of guys run the twin hitachi manfolds dry (they don't connect the water lines up), with no problems. The water-heated manifold is for faster warm-up, hence lower emssions (got that right of the Datsun Service Bulletin) Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Now thats interesting... so i dont even need to run the damb line?! No ill performance effects? I live in what can be at times a VERY cold place. Would eliminating the coolant from the IM show negatives in my case? Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Now thats interesting... so i dont even need to run the damb line?! No ill performance effects? I live in what can be at times a VERY cold place. Would eliminating the coolant from the IM show negatives in my case? Thanks Joel Yes. If you lived in an area where the temperatures weren't to the extremes (too cold or too hot), then you could run it without the line. My opinion? RUN THE LINE! Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Here are some pics of my setup: There are two holes in the housing - one for the temperature sensor. The other one I just plugged. No problems from that. I think this was technically a ZX housing, but it works for me. It had a straight fitting and it fed the intake manifold tap before I installed the SUs. The PCV valve is run with a stainless braided line (5/8" ID to fit the PCV valve). Use the hard line from the block with a 5/8" elbow with flares on the ends - it fit right in to the end of the stock line and it is crankcase air only. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Yes. If you lived in an area where the temperatures weren't to the extremes (too cold or too hot), then you could run it without the line. My opinion? RUN THE LINE! Word! In extreme summer heat the under hood temps will soar. Hot exhaust will bake the intake runners, specially heat soaking them if you make a brief stop. The water lines will draw away heat. Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 The spot where the screwdriver is "fitted", that should be where the temperature sensor should be screwed in. The other hole can be plugged... Oh crap - my bad. I see the temperature sensor below the screwdriver. This is the ZX housing for sure. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 The spot where the screwdriver is "fitted", that should be where the temperature sensor should be screwed in. The other hole can be plugged... Oh crap - my bad. I see the temperature sensor below the screwdriver. This is the ZX housing for sure. Actually...I believe that is from a 75 620 Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Just Joel - you are running the L16, right? The PCV hard line should be between the #2 and #3 cylinders on the driver's side and stick straight out from the block. It should "fit" in the lower notch at the bottom of the SU heat shield. You actually have it easier than the guys (like me) running an L20B with SUs. The L20B has a boss on the side of the block that is up and down. I used the stock L20B hard line and cut it so the elbow would line up with the PCV valve (as viewed from above). Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Just use the stock twin hitachi heat shield and the stock twin hitachi isolators/spacers. It won't bake in the summer. In the winter, it won't prevent the carbs from ice locking. You need a heated air cleaner for that, like the stock twin hitachi air cleaner. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 28, 2011 Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Now thats interesting... so i dont even need to run the damb line?! No ill performance effects? I live in what can be at times a VERY cold place. Would eliminating the coolant from the IM show negatives in my case? Thanks Joel You live where it routinely gets in the teens in the winter, I know it is not as pretty, but it is better to run all the lines, than having the headaches created looking pretty. Quote Link to comment
Just Joel Posted December 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2011 Wow... lots of good info here! Thanks Joel Quote Link to comment
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