Sudo Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I bought a 240SX after selling my 520, so now I really have no need for the L20b longrod 2.1l Frankenstein that I built. Up for sale. Started with a L20b out of a 1978 620. I had the block pressure checked then rebuilt by boring out +2 (iirc). We used the L20 fully counter balanced crank, just turned and polished. ( engine worth about $250 at least) We used theZ20e rods and Z22e pistons. Swapped out the W58 head for an A87 and rebuilt that using standard cam, springs, specs, etc. (worth about $150 at least) I kept the carb and manifold that came with the 620 donor,but have not touched them. They and all the other Datsun parts I have go with the motor. (Disty, oil pan, gasket sets, truck header, etc.) I can get pix ofthe header if need be, but it is not a shorty, it is the long header, and it’sbrand new. (header alone is probablyworth $120+) In short, we (the machine shop and I) used a combination of the FSM and the Jason Grey Info to build this motor. I used DA Clem here in Wichita, which rebuilds MG motors and Mazda standard/rotary motors along withDatsun/Nissan variants for SCCA club members here in the Mid-West. I chose DA Clem from personal recommendations and they also rebuilt the J13 that I putback in the 520. All quality work, though I have never heard this L20b run. This was rebuilt to be a dependable daily driver with some grunt and high end. I did not put in a loping cam, there is no replacement for displacement. But I wanted that famous Nissan dependability, so that was my guiding thought when I was making choices during the build. Its just in primer, and has been thread chased, and a prelim build. You just need to take it back down, paint it, do a final build and drop it in! I would prefer to sell the whole bundle. If you are just interested in specific parts, I'll put your name in a queue and wait to see if a "whole kit-and-kaboole" buyer comes along. $300 is the Ratsun price. If I have to put it on CL or eBay, I’llput it on for what I have in it, which is easily +$600. I have the receipts. I'm located in Wichita, KS. I’m willing to post specific pictures if you need to see something. I’ll be glad to answer any questions, most of this info is coveredin my “build thread”. http://community.rat...__fromsearch__1 Also I’m willing to “crate” this and ship it, but the shipping costs are on you and I have no material for building a crate so, I’ll share the cost of crate materials with you. I have no reasonable way to get it to a shipping dock,so your shipper will need to pick it up from my house. Zip code 67230. I would prefer money order or cashiers check. If you are a reputable Ratsun brother (or sister) I'll take a check, but I decide reputable PayPal is really convenient but the fees leave me with less net $, so I would prefer to not go that route. Sorry for so many rules, but I'm just trying to cover my assests. Link to comment
RedBanner Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I, redbanner, am a douche bag. Glws Link to comment
MicroMachinery Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Looks like a good deal. Someone near Wichita should snag this. Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 300 for all? If so dibs, I need an adress to find a redaway near you. Pmed You have PM. Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Looks like a good deal. Someone near Wichita should snag this. Thank you. I hope/think this is a good deal. I'm taking a bit of a beating on it at this price, but I didn't do it as an investment. so, "C'est la vie", ... well I did think of it as an investment... but for a long lasting motor.. not a monetary gain. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Nice combo and avoids the high compression of the Z20E flattops with long rods. This is the first combo of this type I have seen, indeed the first set of later Z22E pistons. BTW... this makes a 2044cc motor. By any chance did you find out the piston dish volume? Did you source them from Nissan? Was the Pt. # 12010-D8101 ??? Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Nice combo and avoids the high compression of the Z20E flattops with long rods. This is the first combo of this type I have seen, indeed the first set of later Z22E pistons. BTW... this makes a 2044cc motor. By any chance did you find out the piston dish volume? Did you source them from Nissan? Was the Pt. # 12010-D8101 ??? Nothing gets by you, Mike! I do not remember, I'll have to look at the receipt. I'll try to remember and post back. Link to comment
albyneau Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Nice combo and avoids the high compression of the Z20E flattops with long rods. This is the first combo of this type I have seen, indeed the first set of later Z22E pistons. BTW... this makes a 2044cc motor. By any chance did you find out the piston dish volume? Did you source them from Nissan? Was the Pt. # 12010-D8101 ??? ORRRR.... can you tell us with reasonable accuracy how deep the dish is~ that we might calculate on our own? Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Well Jason Gray has a ?mark for dish volume on the late Z22E pistons but seeing as how the rest of the motor is the same displacement as the Z22S piston I assume the dish would be similar or the compression would be way higher. Say around 9-10cc? They look identical to the truck Z22S pistons I have... My Z24, Z22(S), Z20E and L20B pistons.. . Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Nice combo and avoids the high compression of the Z20E flattops with long rods. This is the first combo of this type I have seen, indeed the first set of later Z22E pistons. BTW... this makes a 2044cc motor. I built an identical bottom end for a buddy this last summer with ITM Z22E pistons, but did a few other choice things in the bottom end as well as my break-in procedure. Turns 7400 RPMs every shift and I figured compression ratio to be around 11.2:1 (with his kick butt cylinder head) In a datto shortblock, building a parts combination is about 30% of the work that needs to go into building the motor. *EDIT* compression is not 11.2:1, it is 11.62:1 since we used a factory gasket, not the thicker one(stock+head saver shim) that we were planning on using. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Just for the hell of it this motor with 9.32cc dish and open L head is 8.93. With closed chamber head is 9.48 Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Well, it's still for sale. First taker did not work out. No harm, no foul. Shipping is a bitch. I'm in the wrong business: you'll pay more for shipping than for the motor. but, still a pretty good deal. I did not look at my receipts, but I did that same computation and looked at keeping drivable while maximizing HP and torque. I'll try to remember to look at the receipts tonight, but the 9:1 ratio seems like familiar territory to me when I revisit my thought process. The dish also helps because the pistons actually come a frog-hair above deck at TDC. I want to say, its the open head.... Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I, redbanner, am a douche bag. Glws LOL!, don't beat yourself up here. It's not like you ended my auction early... Link to comment
hitch Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I've sent you a pm Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Just for the hell of it this motor with 9.32cc dish and open L head is 8.93. With closed chamber head is 9.48 I did not look at my receipts, but I did that same computation and looked at keeping drivable while maximizing HP and torque. I'll try to remember to look at the receipts tonight, but the 9:1 ratio seems like familiar territory to me when I revisit my thought process. The dish also helps because the pistons actually come a frog-hair above deck at TDC. I want to say, its the open head.... The compression I reworked. (I made the error of using an over bored 87mm L20B with an L20b deck height and that was very bad) You mentioned the piston being above the deck and this got me thinking..... Working from scratch I get 9.16 for an open head and 9.7 for a closed head. That's better. Link to comment
budsaipan Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 So no pump gas on this one? Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 There's plenty of 'meat' that can be trimmed from a U-67 head to lower compression. Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I've sent you a pm Just adding to the collection. I knew you'd reply here Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 So no pump gas on this one? no, it should be pump gas... Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 I've sent you a pm Good to speak with you. You have PM. This motor and bits appears to be spoken for again. I will post here if it doesn't work out. I'll have to dig out my receipts just to put some sort of closure on all the ruckus that Mike started.... Thanks all. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 no, it should be pump gas... Yes it should, barely. Again I've revisited the factors used in calculating the CR and found more space. The new numbers are 9.16 for an open chamber head and 9.7 for the p nut. (a decimal point can make a big difference, my apologies) Now this is assuming the piston dish is identical to the earlier Z22 piston 9.32cc. I'll have to dig out my receipts just to put some sort of closure on all the ruckus that Mike started.... Thanks all. I deserve that. :lol: Link to comment
Sudo Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 1321505188[/url]' post='579657']I built an identical bottom end for a buddy this last summer with ITM Z22E pistons, but did a few other choice things in the bottom end as well as my break-in procedure. Turns 7400 RPMs every shift and I figured compression ratio to be around 11.2:1 (with his kick butt cylinder head) In a datto shortblock, building a parts combination is about 30% of the work that needs to go into building the motor. 1321666611[/url]' post='580662']Yes it should, barely. Again I've revisited the factors used in calculating the CR and found more space. The new numbers are 9.16 for an open chamber head and 9.7 for the p nut. (a decimal point can make a big difference, my apologies) Now this is assuming the piston dish is identical to the earlier Z22 piston 9.32cc. I deserve that. :lol: Nope. PN is RY6162. This makes it the ITM part with the 9.32 I think. I found my notes but I'm having a hard time reading them for reasons like spills, stains, and frantic scribblings. My math appears to have come up with 9.9:1. I'm really wishing I wouldn't have looked at the receipts though: I have over $900 worth of work in the block and over $300 in the head- not including the cost of the head itself. I'm not pissin and moanin: I knew I was making someone a screaming deal. Looks like hitch is that someone. Thanks Mike. Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 The pistons 12010 D8101? are about $50 each The Z20E long rods 12109 N0100 (152.5mm) are about $100 each There's $600+ right there. Link to comment
oldskoolvws Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Willing to crate and ship? Link to comment
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