metalmonkey47 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Had some loud scratching when the clutch was depressed, which I always figured was throwout bearing, but after pulling the flywheel, I noticed the plate behind it looks like it was ground into against the flywheel, and the starter has a big chunk ground out as well. The transmission isn't factory, and has a junkyard tag on it, and the flywheel has A87 cast into is, and the block is marked U67. The new pressure plate matches up to the flywheel. Don't know if this is any problem, but I want to make sure before bolting it all back together. Dunno why I always seem to get the weird stuff over here Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Had some loud scratching when the clutch was depressed, which I always figured was throwout bearing, but after pulling the flywheel, I noticed the plate behind it looks like it was ground into against the flywheel, and the starter has a big chunk ground out as well. The transmission isn't factory, and has a junkyard tag on it, and the flywheel has A87 cast into is, and the block is marked U67. The new pressure plate matches up to the flywheel. Don't know if this is any problem, but I want to make sure before bolting it all back together. Dunno why I always seem to get the weird stuff over here measure it and see what size it is, and go from there. the flywheel i put on my L20b 5 speed has a87 cast into it as well if that helps at all. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 measure it and see what size it is, and go from there. the flywheel i put on my L20b 5 speed has a87 cast into it as well if that helps at all. Whatever size it is happens to be the same size as factory. The clutch and pressure plate both fit perfect on it Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Also, I have a simple question. GM Synchromesh is GL4 and yellow metal safe fluid. IS IT SAFE IN MY TRANSMISSION? Simple yes/no. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Also, I have a simple question. GM Synchromesh is GL4 and yellow metal safe fluid. IS IT SAFE IN MY TRANSMISSION? Simple yes/no. Thanks guys i asked the same thing when i did my transmission, and yes it is safe 90 is fine overall but try for GL-4 rating or a GL-5 marked GL-4 compatible or 'yellow metal safe'. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Had some loud scratching when the clutch was depressed, which I always figured was throwout bearing, but after pulling the flywheel, I noticed the plate behind it looks like it was ground into against the flywheel, and the starter has a big chunk ground out as well. The transmission isn't factory, and has a junkyard tag on it, and the flywheel has A87 cast into is, and the block is marked U67. The new pressure plate matches up to the flywheel. Don't know if this is any problem, but I want to make sure before bolting it all back together. dunno why I always seem to get the weird stuff over here Got an oic of the 'scratching? The engine plate shouldn't be able to touch the spinning flywheel when bolted together sandwiched between the motor and tranny. If the center is dented outward it might rub the front side of the flywheel. All L and Z series 6 bolt 4 and 6 cylinder flywheels will mount to the L20B. I pulled a 240mm wheel off an '80 720 (L20B) 4x4 once. Car L20Bs are 200mm, trucks are 225mm and later 720 Z24s are 240mm. I suspect that the KA24E flywheels are also compatible too. There are no 'wrong' ones, the one for the truck is 225mm but any will work. A87 sound about right. Measure the clutch disc diameter. Be sure to replace that release bearing now. Be sure to pack the bearing with wheel bearing grease and the inner cavity on the collar that holds it. Wipe the clutch splines with lithium grease on a rag and dab some on the pivot ball and clutch arm contact points. Do not grease the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Also, I have a simple question. GM Synchromesh is GL4 and yellow metal safe fluid. IS IT SAFE IN MY TRANSMISSION? Simple yes/no. Thanks guys yellow metal safe is Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Clutch is UP. Transmission is bolted in and the release bearing is brand freaking new. Didn't notice anything else odd and it all went together right, so were bolting in the crossmember now. Here's the OICS. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 were the bellhousing bolts tight? is that rear-engine plate still flat, or bent up? geez... Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 were the bellhousing bolts tight? is that rear-engine plate still flat, or bent up? geez... That`s what i thought at first to but it looks like it`s hitting starter also. Quote Link to comment
Master-O-Turbonics Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 That`s what i thought at first to but it looks like it`s hitting starter also. if the bellhousing bolts are loose, the starter will pull into the flywheel too...... 1 Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 That makes sense ..cuz that might make it wooble when he pushes in clutch.. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Have you had any weird timing issues? I had that exact same scraping on the starter. The crank was moving axially because the bearings were mis-installed and the thrust washer wore out. Not only did it wear a groove in the starter, it screwed up the timing going up/down hills. You can check for this by pulling/pushing on the crank pulley and see if it slides in/out. The correct movement should be almost undetectable. Mine moved a quarter inch. Quote Link to comment
Farmer Joe Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Have you had any weird timing issues? I had that exact same scraping on the starter. The crank was moving axially because the bearings were mis-installed and the thrust washer wore out. Not only did it wear a groove in the starter, it screwed up the timing going up/down hills. You can check for this by pulling/pushing on the crank pulley and see if it slides in/out. The correct movement should be almost undetectable. Mine moved a quarter inch. yeah, i hate to say it, but hes sooo right... do just like he suggested... i bought a 305 once that had a bad thrust bearing... would tear up the transmission input seal.. took a while to figure that one out... Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 1/4 inch? Surprised the crank didn't fall out or break. > Do not grease the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. But be sure to lubricate the bushing. A couple drops of clean motor oil might work. My Nissan factory service manual says: Clean the clutch pilot bushing, and fill it with multi-purpose grease. Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted November 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) Got it guys. The trans was missing two bolts at the top when we pulled it, but I've gotten some nice shiny new ones in there. The truck is bolted back up and running. The only problem I have now is that when my foots on the pedal, the pedal is soft and I have little friction. With the clutch in, I have full movement of the hydraulics and no grinding that I had before, with a soft pedal. The clutch disengages and I CAN put it in gear but with the pedal out I have very little friction. ^^Ignore that, I'm moving this to a new thread since I'm in a hurry to trouble shoot and drive it. Edited November 12, 2011 by metalmonkey47 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 1/4 inch? Surprised the crank didn't fall out or break. > Do not grease the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft. But be sure to lubricate the bushing. A couple drops of clean motor oil might work. My Nissan factory service manual says: Yes, I've seen this also in some FSMs. My '78 620 manual says 'oil not necessary'. The sintered bronze ones are pre lubed with oil and should run for life. I suppose a drop of oil won't hurt, grease will attract/hold clutch material. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 Got it guys. The trans was missing two bolts at the top when we pulled it, but I've gotten some nice shiny new ones in there. With only the side bolts and no top bolts nor gussets on the bottom of the block to tranny the motor might just flex up and down on the motor mounts. Wow never thought of that. Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 With only the side bolts and no top bolts nor gussets on the bottom of the block to tranny the motor might just flex up and down on the motor mounts. Wow never thought of that. I drove my old truck like that for a yeAR i had no idea the bolts were missing untill the starter fell out!!! Quote Link to comment
nrbill Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 Once upon a time in the 80's, I put an L-20B in a 620 PU that originally came with a 1600. I used a 240Z flywheel, which weighs about 5 or 7 pounds less(can't remember exactly how much) than the stock L-20 unit with a B-type 4 speed. That thing would rev like crazy. Quote Link to comment
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