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aftermarket cam suggestions


jon521

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I will be picking up a peanut head soon from crackerjack, and will be rebuilding and i am considering putting in an aftermarket cam in it. Does anyone have any suggestions on different types of cams? i will of course be researching on my own, but i always like some ratsun input :)

 

thanks!

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What exactly you want out of the engine, grunt power, high rpm screaming, ???? Drivability? I put a RV cam in the last W53 head I had rebuilt, I now regret that decision, I lost torque(grunt power), I rarely run the rpms over 4300rpms, so a stock cam is good for me. Keep in mind that I am a big fan of big valves though, I put 280Z valves in one of my W53 heads, they really don't make much of a differance till I hit the hiway, then the big valves shine. I put a RV cam in a W53 with stock valves, and hit the hiway, big differance, lost torque starting out because of the cam, lost power on the hiway because of the small valves. I wonder if they would let me run that truck at PIR, as I would like to see how it does, wouldn't that be funny, a dually running the 1/4 mile. :lol:

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Jon, i honestly dont know all the details on installing an L cam. But i wanted to share what i did know so it might help you search for the information. I has been my understanding that to do it properly, it usually ends up costing around $400 buck if you do the labor yourself. And that is if you dont get to big of a cam that would also need valve springs installed.

 

Good Luck in your research, i remember a couple good threads here on Ratsun too.

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Jon, i honestly dont know all the details on installing an L cam. But i wanted to share what i did know so it might help you search for the information. I has been my understanding that to do it properly, it usually ends up costing around $400 buck if you do the labor yourself. And that is if you dont get to big of a cam that would also need valve springs installed.

 

Good Luck in your research, i remember a couple good threads here on Ratsun too.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it. I will keep on researching.

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The more radical the cam, the higher the rpms needed to reach its potential, it also robs torque(grunt power) from the lower rpms. I use stock cams, as I don't run it up to 6000 rpms in my normal driving. Fact is, if you drive it like that, it's not going to last long term, but I am sure some will argue that point. My last work truck engine lasted over 10 years, a guy I paid to help me last summer said I beat the shit out of that engine, but I rarely hit more than 4500rpms, it had a stock cam, with big valves in the head. But I did change the transmission 5 times(4 were doglegs), about 4 rearends(one dually, 1 488 gear, and 2 437s) before I retired the engine. I also got away from them 200mm clutch discs/covers, they couldn't handle the work truck duties. Here are some of the work truck duties.

DSCN0392.jpg

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I would start out with a Minimum 475/275 isky cam But to get the full HP out of these its best to put sidedrafts.

 

Isky

webcamshafts

Schneider

Erson

maybe some other made cams

 

cames cost money to do it right.

Maybe bolting on a 38/38Weber might be EZer to do.If you find one used.

 

 

hmm i see. thank you....im considering spending the money on either a new weber or getting mine rebuilt

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Lot's of information here. Australian location, but looks like some great products. My link

 

x

 

 

i will definetly check that out soon! im supposed to be writing a paper right now.....so i will as soon as im done.

 

if i do get a cam, i decided i want something that will give me torque.

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Guest kamakazi620

i will definetly check that out soon! im supposed to be writing a paper right now.....so i will as soon as im done.

 

if i do get a cam, i decided i want something that will give me torque.

Just use an L20 cam,Cheap and grunt power,If your running an L20 you dont wanna rev past 6Gs anyway unless you balanced the bottom end,+ you have to run high compression 9 1/2 to 1 or higher to take advantage of a hot cam

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