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Alt & regulator problem.


datrod

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O.K. On my 71 510 wagon the charge light came on the other day. So I checked the alt, The power wire was fried,:mad: and so was the little plastic deal that covers that area. So I go exchange the alt and fix the wire but the charge light on the dash is still on. Is that the voltage regulator letting the system overcharge. And if so is that part avaliable at the local auto parts store?

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John im not a big fan of doing electrical but FYI ive seen the regulators on e bay before & I believe Kragen still carries them new.........

 

 

Thanks Mark, I just might take a run down to Kragen just to freak them out. A 71 what?:fu:

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Be sure the regulator is properly grounded to the fender with sheet metal screws then be sure there is a ground strap from the body to the negative terminal of the battery, or the engine block. If the regulator isn't grounded properly the light will stay on. Coarse it could be something else but this is easy and cheap to check and fix.

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Be sure the regulator is properly grounded to the fender with sheet metal screws then be sure there is a ground strap from the body to the negative terminal of the battery, or the engine block. If the regulator isn't grounded properly the light will stay on. Coarse it could be something else but this is easy and cheap to check and fix.

 

Thanks, I have all the ground wires in place. When I put the new motor in back in October I replaced the starter, battery and alt. But I have no idea how old the regulator is. This happend to me with my Z car so thats why I think it might be the regulator. But with the Z it melted the main wire and was really over charging the battery.

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I just bought one on Ebay for my truck and it was super cheap and fixed the same problem I had.. did the alt first, still had the light, reg fixed it. He also has them for other Datsuns.

 

here is the one you need on EBAY:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VR-121-voltage-regulator-DATSUN-NISSAN-NORS-64-74_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ80735QQihZ015QQitemZ250167783932QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

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I just bought one on Ebay for my truck and it was super cheap and fixed the same problem I had.. did the alt first, still had the light, reg fixed it. He also has them for other Datsuns.

 

here is the one you need on EBAY:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VR-121-voltage-regulator-DATSUN-NISSAN-NORS-64-74_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247QQcategoryZ80735QQihZ015QQitemZ250167783932QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

 

Thanks for the tip reese. I have a bigger alt. 50 amp. Do you think this is the problem? A friend told me that the bigger alt will burn up the stock reg. I might see if they offer a bigger reg and go with that.

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datrod

I have a 50 amper in my 521

No it will not burn up the wire.

 

I asssume this a is a ext reg alternator you have purchased.???

 

510/521 volt regs are common to get. Maybe no in stock righ on hand but availible. I buy the Wells brand solid state units(USA made )VR728. sold thru carquest (86086)

I have had very good luck with them.

 

the USA made mechanicals ones suck and dont buy them

left USA solid state. right is Mechanical Japanese

brakemastervoltregs_thumb.jpg

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i have had bad luck with the solid state reg's. i only use mechanical ones. i've seen original mechanicals still working on 521's. the mechanical units are adjustable on the inside for anybody that knows what they are doing. i sure dont.:lol: at least that's what the factory manual says and shows. mechanical's last so long i see people painting the outsides to touch it up including myself to last another 35 years. open them up and the points look new on the ones that still work. of coarse you may not want a 35 year old part like me but i still pick them up when i see them.

 

the last charging problem i had on my 71 521 when i bought it i swapped out the whole harness. the volt reg and fuse box had the wires all cut up with butt connectors coming out the woodwork.

 

i have still to this day heard about anyone adjusting the points inside to make their headlights brighter.:confused: i know it's possible. everyone would rather swap saturn alt's and put in crazy headlights in. oh well.

 

take a wire wheel or sand paper to that bolt and where it goes on the fender to make the connection good. threads are dirty and paint/corrision/rust will give a bad connection. use a ohm meter if you hace to to make sure it's grounded. good luck

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I'm kind of an idiot when it comes to electrical but I'm trying to learn.

I have had problems with voltage regulation in my 521. My alternator has been cooking my battery cuz after a long ride, there's acid bubbling out the top! thought it was the voltage regulator so I swapped it with the new one from my dime and then just recently came to see that my new alternator isn't even wired to my regulator! AAAH! So I need to bust out the wiring diagram and see what the heck is going on...

tell me if this is a dumb question, but aren't the newer alternators internally regulated?

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The '78 and newer trucks were IR internally regulated and transistorized, so no moving parts. Also higher output too. As for older regulators, an old used Hitachi one is better than a North American re-built one, and a brand new dealer one even better.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I just recently stumbled upon the same problem on '70 521. The "IGN" light on my dash will not go off. It didn't start this until after I pulled the dash apart this weekend. I doubt that has anything to do with it, but it just seemed odd. Driving home last night my head lights were considerably dimmer than usual as well as the dash lights and dome light. I am running a 90 amp Saturn Alternator, and I bypassed the ext Reg. Is it possible My alternator is going out? If so that sucks butt, it is only 6 months old. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I am Electric dumb.

 

 

I forgot to add, my turn signals are very very slow now too.

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  • 11 months later...
I'm kind of an idiot when it comes to electrical but I'm trying to learn.

I have had problems with voltage regulation in my 521. My alternator has been cooking my battery cuz after a long ride, there's acid bubbling out the top! thought it was the voltage regulator so I swapped it with the new one from my dime and then just recently came to see that my new alternator isn't even wired to my regulator! AAAH! So I need to bust out the wiring diagram and see what the heck is going on...

tell me if this is a dumb question, but aren't the newer alternators internally regulated?

 

I know this is probably an old post, but did you bother checking your ground on your alternator. I had the same problem on my KC after I fixed it and the ground on the alternator was hanging on by a thread.

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Fryingbacon

then just recently came to see that my new alternator isn't even wired to my regulator! Now How is this possible? Connector hooked up or its NOT?

Help us understand!

 

if its NOT wired there will be a jumper where the VR used to plug in. That means its converted for the IR alternator.

 

As for the 521 cooking a battery Yes its a Bad volt reg if your Have a External Volt reg. Cause a unregulated Alternator most likely will overvolt.

 

These area all EZ fixes and can be caught if one runs a Volt METER or a simple diaode cker ran in back of the cig lighter to monitor the system while driving before its gets to the point of cooking a battery or running a battery dead.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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