Jump to content

Lowered 620 - Looking to raise the front a smidge


Ron1200

Recommended Posts

I have a lowered 620 KC and my commute to work is via some rough county roads. The smooth roads are fine, it's the bumpy stuff that's affecting the ride and handling negatively.

 

I've got the rear sorted out. Now I'm looking to adjust the front. I'm looking for input...

 

The truck now sits with the bump stops just slightly touching the lower control arm. So effectively, my suspension travel is limited to how much the bump stop will compress. I've been searcing the forums and read where some take the bump stops completely out. I was looking at doing this, however it would only get me about an inch. I don't think that 1 inch would give me enough travel to be useful. And if it were to bottom out, it would be a hard hit.

 

If I were to leave the bump stops in and raise the truck slightly (enough to have 1/2" between the bottom of the bump stop to the lower control arm), would this provide enough travel to be useful. What are others using?

Link to comment
  • Replies 25
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Call coumty ask them to fix the road. Ollz, sometimes you gotta go moar higher. Is the bump stop cut any as it sits? Or can you raise it a little and cut the bump stops alittle and move the shock perch alitte? Run less or more air in th tires? I totaly agree on leaving at least "some" bump stop.

Link to comment

i removed the ones on my 80 720. frame hit the tension rods. probably not a good scenario, man.

 

What year of KC was that again? If its 78-79 then you can always get hardbody 2" drop spindles, with some hardbody calipers/rotor/hub and then adjust the the torsion bars accordingly. more spendy this way, but it works better and gets you your suspension back. I might do that to my 620 here soon.

Link to comment

anyone ever cut the upper bump stop "stop"? there is a metal piece which the rubber bump stop hits on the upper control arm and it looks as though it you could get in there with an acetaline torch and a cutting tip, and cut it quick or with a rotory cutoff tool you could gain even a couple more centimeters before bottoming out. i just indexed my torsions today and for some reason even with the bolts adjusted all the way out its higher than when i had them non indexed.??? idk, i was thinking about custom making adapters or spacers or something to run just the arms off a tacoma. i saw some today and they are big around and clear coilovers. i could weld on a mount higher up and use the tacoma front discs, hub assembly, and all and just have to modify the steering, no big deal. i might go to a junkyard and see what can be done just for kicks.

Link to comment
2eDeYe' date='28 September 2011 - 07:01 PM' timestamp='1317261696' post='554498']

The upper stops limit down travel, which becomes an issue when lifting the front end.

not the upper stops, but the part of metal that contacts the top of the lower rubber stop. it protrudes from the upper control arm down about a half inch maybe, which, theoretically would allow the wheels to go up another inch. its hard to explain the part im talking about, its about a 1/4 inch piece of steel elded to the botton of the upper control arm. yeah there is no point in doing anything to the upper rubber stop

Link to comment

Is this a disc brake truck? If so you can drop that lower shock mount down into the control arm for more shock travel. Yello620 did this mod and has pic's in his build thread.

 

I would just get rid of the bumpstop after that. You will still be bottoming out the shock before you hit the pad.

Link to comment

This is what I'm dealing with... Here is a photo of the bump stop. You can see how it touches the lower control arm.

 

IMG_7691.jpg

and in this pic see where the bump stop bolts on? that what i mean when i say you could cut that off, its not structual and it hangs down from the frame like 1/2 inch. if you get in there with a rotary grinding wheel you could cut that biotch off and get even more drop.

Link to comment

Yep ... your right in that everything is a compromise.

Lower<- - - - - - - - - - - ->Higher

More $<- - - - - - - - - - -> Less $

Bad Ride <- - - - - - - -> Good Ride

 

I'll need to find my preference - on several different levels.

 

I have found (from the comments) that I can:

  • Lower the bottom shock mount to get a bit more front shock travel
  • Cut the bump stop
  • Remove the entire bump stop support
  • Adjust the torsion bars to add clearance

These are all inexpensive changes.

 

For more cash-ola I can:

  • 720 drop spindles
  • Bag it

Thanks for the insight

Link to comment

or become unemployed and have all day to do anything you want but no money to do it! the true definition of a ratsun member. but yeah, i don't know anyone who has cut the entire bump stop support off but i have strongly contemplated doing it when i have nothing to do...grinder sitting on the bench. but it has no structural support and looks like a good thing to get more clearance from the interference.

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.