weber 32/36 stalling and bogging

[ggzilla]

I had that exact symptom last year and it was the idle stop was loose. Make sure all the screws and nuts are tight (but not too tight!)

[spook420]

just finished adjusting the valves on mine(cold, i should do them warm). it runs a bit quieter. doesn't stall as much when stopping but still did a few times. the idle is set a little high while warming up. but runs down the road a little bit better. im not disliking it but would like too figure out whats making it stall while stopping. i know the previous owner(s) has a make shift PCV valve made of aluminium and copper. i works i guess :) lol once i run this tank out ill pull the tank and check the line up to the filter. a lot of the wiring a spliced together its OK but would like clean it up. my mom had a opel cadet when she was 17. from the stories about the car, it had the same problem im trying to remember what it turned out to be.

[Stupid_fast]

just finished adjusting the valves on mine(cold, i should do them warm). it runs a bit quieter. doesn't stall as much when stopping but still did a few times. the idle is set a little high while warming up. but runs down the road a little bit better. im not disliking it but would like too figure out whats making it stall while stopping. i know the previous owner(s) has a make shift PCV valve made of aluminium and copper. i works i guess :) lol once i run this tank out ill pull the tank and check the line up to the filter. a lot of the wiring a spliced together its OK but would like clean it up. my mom had a opel cadet when she was 17. from the stories about the car, it had the same problem im trying to remember what it turned out to be.

 

 

After driving a bit check your dipstick, make sure no air pressure is released. Get a real PCV valve.. they are like $3 from rockauto.

 

Spliced wiring? Check voltage on ignition coil, mine was running at 7v due to some high gauge wire going to the tach. Ran a bit better after fixing it.

 

How does it run overall? Does it idle smooth? I've seen L20b local the other day that ran perfect.. no wobble on idle, valves are silent, ect... thats how these should run!

 

ADjusting valves hot is a pain.. I adjusted one exhaust valve, moved onto the other one and finished it, checked the first one and the clearance had already changed from cooling! I'm going to do two at a time and get em just right next time I can work on it.

[ggzilla]

a make shift PCV valve made of aluminium and copper

 

Plug it. Plug the hose it is connected to and leave the block open to the air until you get a real PCV valve. There's a good chance it will solve your problems. You can test it now, tonight.

 

A points coil should be somewhere around 6-9 volts. An electronic ignition coil runs at 12V.

[Stupid_fast]

Plug it. Plug the hose it is connected to and leave the block open to the air until you get a real PCV valve. There's a good chance it will solve your problems. You can test it now, tonight.

 

A points coil should be somewhere around 6-9 volts. An electronic ignition coil runs at 12V.

 

Ah, I meant 12v before the ballast resistor, if it has points. Otherwise 12v on + side for EI.

[Dirttrack510]

Mine used to do the same thing, till I got the air/fuel adjustment screw set correctly on my carb, then I set my idle at around 700rpm. It never dies anymore (after it's warm, since I even removed my choke) and mine is on an automatic. Much harder to keep running than a manual trans car. :P

[spook420]

the great thing about this car for me is that its not a daily driver(yet). i live a half mile away from work and i ride my bike. its getting tag and insurance Friday. so sooner or later i can rip the engine/trans out and take care of the wiring. when im ready.

 

til then ill do some of the things you guys mentioned. i almost bought a PCV valve the other day but didnt. yeah wiring not up too par with me. ill get better shots later. i have a electronic ignition not sure what it came off of. is there a good coil for an electronic ignition?

 

i found this thread on stalling/weber carbs and apparently i have an extra DGAV 33B1 carb and it has this "hole" that he drilled with the nipple. not sure if it came for the mfg like that or not. but ill take it. :) i have to try it on tomorrow.

 

 

heres a shot for you. :)

 

spook

[Dime Dave]

I've used a plenum type adapter on the street and it stumbles, bogs and basically doesn't run well at anything but full throttle. I would go yo a plate type adapter if yours is plenum type.

 

The plenum type looks like this.

[Stupid_fast]

@dime dave, I got the style with 2 plates... used loctite on all the threads, and I just redid all the gaskets.

 

Something strange... I noticed my ignition lock wasnt keyed right, I re-keyed the lock and modded the tumblers to work with my key and now the car runs a little better...? Any reason why this would be?

[ggzilla]

coincidence ... unless you also disconnected the ignition switch (electrical unit)

[Stupid_fast]

coincidence ... unless you also disconnected the ignition switch (electrical unit)

 

 

The reason why I re-keyed it is because it would no longer start at the start position(would not turn far enough?) I cleaned out the lock and my key stopped working in it.

 

Maybe some electrical connection is working better? meh? I'll look into it more tomorrow see if I can figure anything out.

[Stupid_fast]

Adjusted my valves hot yesterday, did 4 valves, warmed the car back up , did the other 4 valves, repeated a few times and I still have some valve tick. Do I just suck at adjusting valves?

Runs a little better, but after a little bit(15 min +) of driving it still wants to die coasting at idle sometimes.

 

Idle is OK 1200rpm, still a bit rough. Adjusted to lean best idle, cant get it any better. Any ideas?

 

I'm thinking of trying a fuel pressure regulator, I'm going to order one today. I'll include any more relevant information if I think of it. I think if I cant get it running well soon to just take it to troy ermish and see if he can sort it out.

 

edit, ordered FPR and gauge.. maybe it will help something. Want it for my new carb setup anyway.

[Dirttrack510]

1200 RPM idle is not okay, espcially if that's a rough "idle". :unsure: your car should be idling at around 700 rpm, I set mine around 750rpm, because it's an automatic.

[Stupid_fast]

1200 RPM idle is not okay, espcially if that's a rough "idle". :unsure: your car should be idling at around 700 rpm, I set mine around 750rpm, because it's an automatic.

 

And? This is what I've been saying.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Stupid

You got another carb to to try out or borrow?

 

Once the valves are set there are set. even if they noisey loose. its at idle your having this proplem so it doesnt need alot of gas at idle.

 

pressure reg? why unless you got a electric pump and question the fuel dilevery?

stock pumps are usuaully fine I never had one overpump.

 

I have the Plenum one shown as Dave shows. On L20s you might have to use the short 1.75 in tall filter as the hood wont clear.

 

whats the timming light say? is it steady?

[Stupid_fast]

Stupid

You got another carb to to try out or borrow?

 

Once the valves are set there are set. even if they noisey loose. its at idle your having this proplem so it doesnt need alot of gas at idle.

 

pressure reg? why unless you got a electric pump and question the fuel dilevery?

stock pumps are usuaully fine I never had one overpump.

 

I have the Plenum one shown as Dave shows. On L20s you might have to use the short 1.75 in tall filter as the hood wont clear.

 

whats the timming light say? is it steady?

No, I'm wanting to upgrade to R1 carb setup soon and don't want to put more money into this setup.

 

I hooked up a pressure gauge, its at 3psi steady... I guess I was wrong.

 

I have the 1.75" air filter.

 

Timing light says ~15btdc, it is not perfectly steady.

 

 

I cant figure it out, I am just going to give up and take it to a shop.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I cant figure it out, I am just going to give up and take it to a shop. ????

 

Try around 7 -12 deg.

and readjust.

 

I hope the shop dont REAM you unless they are a ols school shop cause to me most those guys dont know what they doing.

 

ayou even ck the dizzy for wear or loosness or maybe swap in another?

 

 

If you cant figure this out, How you going to work a 4 motorcycle carb set up?

[Stupid_fast]

I cant figure it out, I am just going to give up and take it to a shop. ????

 

Try around 7 -12 deg.

and readjust.

 

I hope the shop dont REAM you unless they are a ols school shop cause to me most those guys dont know what they doing.

 

ayou even ck the dizzy for wear or loosness or maybe swap in another?

 

 

If you cant figure this out, How you going to work a 4 motorcycle carb set up?

 

Was going to take it to troy ermish .. he is datsun 510 specialist.

 

I've tried retarding the timing, makes it run worse, more rough.

 

ream? is that a word?

 

dizzy, no idea.. I'll buy a cheap single points one maybe and try it.

 

 

weird thing I notice... even with 65 idle jet does not run well unless mixture screw is like 4 turns out...

 

Another thing, when I fully disassembled and cleaned out the carb awhile back the 2ndary idle speed screw was bumped, I dont know what the stock setting for it is but I had it contact linkage than 1/2 turn in ...

 

Maybe something wrong with the carb, I don't know ..

[banzai510(hainz)]

Yeah troy can fix it but I think more carb and just swap a dizzy if you have one if not then take to Troy.

 

I can try 4 different carbs and get 4 different jet setting. Some close to the instructions. other I make a change in the jet numbers and see not difference, and soem are just better than others ,Now even used Webers are getting 25years old.

 

make sure the secondary is closing or spring is installed.

[JoeCool]

I decided to bump this because there was never a result, curiosity is killing me. But mainly because I am having the same problem. Stalling and bogging. I put the carb on maybe 6 months ago. It ran awesome until a few weeks ago. Started out with the issue where I could hit the gas and it would pull hard up to 6000RPM, second gear 4000, third bogging and sputtering. Did fine if I just drove it normal and shifted by 4000. So no big deal, I put off looking into it. The other day I am driving down the highway and the damn thing would not go over 65. The speed limit is 70. Had to go in the right lane with everyone passing me and giving me the evil eye! Then I am driving in town and it kept shutting off at every stop light and hard start. Rough on take off. Hasn't done right since. Seems to get worse when the engine gets hot? Idles fine. Fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, thermostat, all are new. Fuel pump two years old. I have fuel return line, idle cut (anti diesel) solenoid. Set timing to 13 degrees per the instructions, did a valve adjustment about a year ago.

 

Searched and searched some more, this is as close as I I came to the issue I am having, but no answer.

[datzenmike]

Put a hose on the fuel pump outlet and direct into a pail. Take the coil wire of the dizzy so it won't start and crank it over. You should see strong surges of fuel if the filter and lines are not plugged. It's gas so be careful.

 

Fuel filter clogged (I know you said new) but for $3 get a new one and cut that one open and examine it for sediment. If sediment there is probably more in the lines and even more in the tank.

[JoeCool]

Well, tried what you said Mike, and it flows good and steady as long as the engine is turning over. And the coil is providing plenty of spark as well. I am going to get a new filter and give that a go, can't hurt. Now I have another problem, the damn hood latch is busted. No matter how I shut the hood, it no longer latches... GREAT! So I guess I am buying a new hood latch as well.

 

Got a question... the instructions from Weber said to set timing to 13 degrees, which I did, but my service manual says 12. Would 12 do better? No difference? Is there a reason for Weber saying set to 13?

[datzenmike]

If the pump is pushing fuel than the filter is fine. You can change it now or wait till the fall. Why is Weber telling you what to set the ignition at?? It's none of their business! Follow the FSM at 12. Ignition timing is + -. many things affect what timing you can get away with... air temp, humidity, altitude, gas type, octane rating, compression, thermostat setting, time of year. +12 BTDC is a generally safe all round setting for the L series.

[MicroMachinery]

I had this happen once. Pulled the top off the carb and there was a little piece of debris that would float around and eventually get sucked into one of the jets. Cleaned out the bowl, good to go.

[JoeCool]

I'll try that and check the bowl level while I'm at it.