weber 32/36 stalling and bogging

[Stupid_fast]

Hello, I've gotten most of the issues worked out on my car so far. Its got about 1500 miles on it since the first start.

 

Engine is a rebuild L20b, everything is new. Carb, fuel pump, plugs, wires, dizzy, coil, ect.

 

When I come off the throttle and clutch in suddenly, in traffic, braking for a stop sign, it will stall. Usually this happens on hills or under breaking, it stalls less on flat areas. I searched it and found that webers have this problem, I found adjusting the float can fix it? I cannot find any sources on how to adjust it properly.

One said your suppose to bend the metal piece its held on to adjust it?

 

It wont stall if I feather the throttle while clutching in, then coming to a stop or cornering.

I can keep on the power around corners, up hills, and there is no difference besides the normal effect of fighting gravity. Only happens on idle.

Holding still or starting up it always has a pretty smooth idle. I fixed one small vacuum leak which made it run overall more smooth, but the stall problem was still the same.

 

 

It runs pretty strong, if I ease onto the throttle it will respond well and give good power, but if I suddenly get on the throttle it will bog for a second then go. Also going around a corner, if I don't gently get on the throttle it will bog.

I'm pretty sure this is just jetting, I have not messed around with it besides just getting the jet sizes.

 

Ideas? Thanks..

[banzai510(hainz)]

time it and do a mixture adjustment then set the speed screw on the back linkage.

 

Isnt there a HOW TO on olddatsuns.com in tech section?

[Stupid_fast]

time it and do a mixture adjustment then set the speed screw on the back linkage.

 

Isnt there a HOW TO on olddatsuns.com in tech section?

 

Idle is tuned, and timed... I will re-time it again since I've been messing around with the idle setting a lot. Idle is smooth and lean-best. Fast idle and all that is set now also, cold start is a lot nicer.

 

I am looking at olddatsuns, I don't see anything for weber floats ...

 

 

edit, on their link to "weber 32/36" on page 3 there is this,

"Six(?) longer bolts take off the top of the carb and remove one tiny little E clip. This is the top cover showing the floats. Carefuly not to bend the clip they hang from. Bending that clip up or down even the slightlest amount is how you adjust the level of fuel in your fuel bowl."

I've been in that part, so should I just lower the floats and see if that helps the stalling?

[banzai510(hainz)]

I never had any real proplems with Weber DGVs. I just bol them on and go. Dont matter what L motor.

 

I only worry about the idle jet and 50 should be fine but I have run 55 and 60 and wsasnt really much difference on my L16/L18 blocks with a cammed head . @ idle it doesnt need that much gas.

 

Only when I put my cammed head I would run out of power on top end . Then I knoew it was jetting but not enougth to no use it as a dalily driver.

 

I just bolt them on adjust the mixture,timming and speed screw. drive it and do it again.

 

 

Intake tight and carb bolts tight ,adapter not cracked?

 

 

accell pump look good,nice squirt of gas in main barrel when linkage is cycled

[Radiant-Designer]

Out of curiosity are you using a fuel pressure regulator or even a preassure gauge on the fuel line? I know the webers like it UNDER 3.5 lbs... I have mine at like 2.5 since I dont have a return line. I have heard that if its too high hard turning or braking can cause it to stall.

[Radiant-Designer]

1. _{When I Brake Hard Or Make A Sharp Turn, My Vehicle Stalls Or Hesitates?
   Make sure the fuel pressure is no more than 3.5 psi max. Eliminate any debris in needle and seat vale and check that the float level is correctly set.}

[Stupid_fast]

@hainz, yeah accel pump squirts nicely. new low profile adapter plate put on correctly with gasket sealer, no cracks, new intake/exhaust gasket and tightened down with new bolts...

 

@radiant-, I have nothing in the fuel line except for a filter. Its a new kyosan pump... Sounds like thats the problem, I don't have a return line.

 

so a pressure regulator should make it better?

 

And how to adjust the float??

 

Thanks.

 

 

Something I noticed, when I revv it warmed up sitting in the driveway it seems fine, open the 32 all the way and no bog or anything, goes right back to idle.

 

But it will also want to die when in traffic, 0-3mph moving...(toll gates) especially when it gets HOT (180 on temp gauge traffic... normal running freeway/backroads is like 150)

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont run a return line or a reg with a stock Koyosan fuel pump. YOu should be fine.

 

Is there power brakes on this???

 

 

you ck the valve lash?

[Stupid_fast]

I dont run a return line or a reg with a stock Koyosan fuel pump. YOu should be fine.

 

Is there power brakes on this???

 

 

you ck the valve lash?

 

 

 

OK...

 

No power brakes, I think its a stock master.. might be 280z one.

 

Valve lash was set cold before 1st run, then hot 3 time since I've gotten it running!! Snug against all measurements .. I cant think of what that tool is called, gapper? Set to the hot L20b spec on olddatsuns.com after driving for an hour, less than 10 mins of sitting.

 

I also sprayed some carb cleaner after JCCS(400 mile each way plus driving around LA.. about 1000 miles total), cleaned it up a bit. Ran a little better. I also changed the oil after I got back from JCCS. Plugs are fresh from before JCCS.

 

Have not checked comp since like 50 mile mark .. it was at 170psi all 4 cyl +/- 3 or so deviation. (cranked engine for about 5 sec per test)

 

Jetting is .. air correctors are(facing the front of the car) 170-160, pump jet is 50, primary are 140-140, 2nd idle is 50 .. .dunno didn't check primary.

Seems OK for the motor not ideal but from what I've learned should run good. I still gotta get a video of what it sounds like .. its really nice exhaust note.

[H5WAGON]

Check wires going to coil & resistor...are they all clean and tight?

 

What type of ignition?

 

Had this issue.....cleaned it up runs great!

[Stupid_fast]

Check wires going to coil & resistor...are they all clean and tight?

 

What type of ignition?

 

Had this issue.....cleaned it up runs great!

 

Hmm thats a really good idea, but ignition wires are all freshly crimped connectors .. new wires, ect.. I will double check everything and make sure its all nice and tight.

 

All new ignition, pertronix ignitor with flame thrower coil. NGK iriduim plugs, bosch plug wires, reman dizzy... dual point modded the pertronix to fit.(like 2mm from pickup to the magnet)

 

Again on idle sitting in driveway everything seems strong, revvs nice and smooth. Gonna try to adjust the float tonight.

 

Thanks.

[Stupid_fast]

Ahhh, some progress!! So I opened up the carb tonight, and checked the float ... looks really low, so I raised it and now its a lot better! Bogging is decreased, stalling is also decreased. Still does both but I can take a sharp, flat corner clutch in without stalling. Still stalls if ~3000rpm, clutch in, brake to stop sign unless I blip the throttle.

 

I'm going to try to raise it a little more tomorrow, see if I can find the sweet spot.

 

 

I checked on the electrical stuff... Everything is as tight as the day I put it on. Seems good...

[banzai510(hainz)]

try soem regular spark plugs(Im really guessing on this one)

 

swap out a dizzy, and maybe another carb if you have them.

Why? I never tried usuing a dual point with Pertronix. Might be hooky then might not.

Carb is maybe also questionable.

[racerx]

Petronix has to use single point distributor...

[H5WAGON]

Ahhh, some progress!! So I opened up the carb tonight, and checked the float ... looks really low, so I raised it and now its a lot better! Bogging is decreased, stalling is also decreased. Still does both but I can take a sharp, flat corner clutch in without stalling. Still stalls if ~3000rpm, clutch in, brake to stop sign unless I blip the throttle.

 

I'm going to try to raise it a little more tomorrow, see if I can find the sweet spot.

 

 

I checked on the electrical stuff... Everything is as tight as the day I put it on. Seems good...

 

From: Redlineweber.com

 

 

 

Float setting notes 1. Fuel pressure is critical to float spillage. Redline recommends 2.5 to 3 lbs. 2. For aggressive off-road float drop should be limited to 44 .5 mm max drop

 

 

The whole redline-weber page

[Stupid_fast]

try soem regular spark plugs(Im really guessing on this one)

 

swap out a dizzy, and maybe another carb if you have them.

Why? I never tried usuing a dual point with Pertronix. Might be hooky then might not.

Carb is maybe also questionable.

Spark plugs .. Had a set of bosch in when I got the car, swapped em out with NGK's after first 200 miles or so and ran a lot better. Only spare dizzy I've got is dual point, really old and dunno if it would work. I disassembled it also thinking to rebuild it before I found stuck screws.

Spare carb I have is a siezed up ancient hitachi. Did you read my last post? Raising the float made it better.

Petronix has to use single point distributor...

Unless you mod it. B)

From: Redlineweber.com

 

 

 

Float setting notes 1. Fuel pressure is critical to float spillage. Redline recommends 2.5 to 3 lbs. 2. For aggressive off-road float drop should be limited to 44 .5 mm max drop

 

 

The whole redline-weber page

Yeah I saw that... Does not tell you "how" to do it though, took a bit of searching. Its against my normal way of thinking to bend little parts like that. :P

 

Cant find my caliper to measure it ... last time I saw it my brother had it. :(

 

 

Thank you all, I'm going to mess with it some more and see if I can get it working nicely.

 

 

[racerx]

I've asked that question regarding needing a fuel pump before because the 32/36 webers like low PSI and seems like hardly anyone runs a Fuel Reg. in their 510. I've also asked Troy Ermish, Fremont, heck knows a lot about Datsun 510, has been in the 510 scene for a long time and has a lot of Datsuns..he said that they don't need a fuel regulator. I did check the fuel pressure with an line gauge and was about 4.5 lbs. So far I'm not running a fuel reg.

 

The best way is to read your spark plugs. Mine was running rich because of the needle valve going South on me about a month ago and had a hard time adjusting my carb. So I went back to base setting and went from there, once my needle valve was fixed, just took off another one from another 32/36 lying around the garage. Regarding the float meas., , you posted, not sure if that's for plastic or brass setting, there are different settings. To measure you don't need a caliper, if you have a ruler lying around, with mm, that should work. Good luck.

[Stupid_fast]

Stalling fixed! Bogging/hesitation is better but still there.

 

Float adjusted a few times, its good right now could use some more adjustment.

 

The spark plugs got carbon fouled due to the coil only getting 6.5v, fixed the wiring and now full 12v at coil.

 

Replaced the plugs with new of the same NGK iridium IV's, decided to leave gap at stock (0.050) to see how the bigger coil handles it, runs nice and smooth 2,000-5k's(tach is not working so have not pushed it much).

Idle is a little rough, maybe the gap is too big. Does not like to idle under 800rpm still, will idle really rough.

 

Adjusted valves cold as accurately as possible (like 5 min per valve getting it just right) runs better now!

 

Timing adjusted to 12* , I need to redo that since the plugs replaced.

 

Thanks everyone for help...

[banzai510(hainz)]

I would try some stock NGK type at the stock .032.

 

A L motor guy should always have a spare dizzy and weber carb to swap in!!!!!!!!!!!!!for trouble shooting

[spook420]

same thing happening to me. im going to try some of your remedies fast. havent really had a lot of time with the car yet to know its problems but will check back on here.

[Stupid_fast]

same thing happening to me. im going to try some of your remedies fast. havent really had a lot of time with the car yet to know its problems but will check back on here.

 

My car still runs like shit, lol.

 

Try adjusting the valves until they are perfect... I've been working on it and apparently I really suck at valve adjustments. I went to a local meet and that's the advice I got from the guys there.

L series should be really quiet, little to no valve ticking when adjusted correctly.

[Laecaon]

I find most solve valve ticking by adjust warm. Most report cold gives valve tick.

 

Sounds like you fixed that stalling, I fixed it by bending the tabs, fixed my float bowl adjustment.

 

I was having the bogging issues like you described. They all went away when I went from a L16 to a L18. So maybe I was overjetted when I had the L16? dont read too much into this one.

[Stupid_fast]

I find most solve valve ticking by adjust warm. Most report cold gives valve tick.

 

Sounds like you fixed that stalling, I fixed it by bending the tabs, fixed my float bowl adjustment.

 

I was having the bogging issues like you described. They all went away when I went from a L16 to a L18. So maybe I was overjetted when I had the L16? dont read too much into this one.

 

I've tried adjusting warm, I've tried adjusting cold, I don't know. Gonna try it again and again until I get it right I guess.

 

Nothing has been fixed, the hesitation is reduced a ton from what it was from jetting, but the stalling issues are still there and still very bad. It just wants to die out when rolling, when I'm at a stop it will stop stalling and just idle terribly ...

 

I have the idle set at 1k rpm, while rolling sometimes randomly the idle will just dip to 500rpm and even below .. when I pull up to a stop it will correct itself sometimes.

[ggzilla]

To adjust the valves, they need to be set tighter when cold. Don't set them warm. Set them HOT and they will tighten up as they cool down. Make sure you cannot get the next size feeler in there. Then it will be correct. But be aware, if they went years without a proper adjustment they might be a little hammered and so will never get quiet.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I have the idle set at 1k rpm, while rolling sometimes randomly the idle will just dip to 500rpm and even below .. when I pull up to a stop it will correct itself sometimes.

 

retry the idle mixture and a good return spring