noguice Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 My '79 510 is having trouble with stalling after I restart it. If the car has been sitting long enough and everything is cool, I have no problem cranking it and running it, even on my 40 mile commute to work. However, If I'm running errands, or stop it to run in a store. It has trouble when I restart it. Usually it stalls out, within the first minute or so, or right when I try to pull out onto the road. Once i get it going again, it'll run rough for the first mile or 2, then it does fine until the next time i stop. This is a stock L20b motor, nothing after market as far as the engine is concerned. I'm not sure where to start, On my '75 Dart, I would likely assume it was the electronic ignition going bad, and for $30 it'd be fixed, but since the unit on this one is a bit more expensive, i want to make sure that's it before i dump money on it. Other thoughts could be vapor lock (usually worse about stalling when weather is hot) or other fuel delivery/carb/pump issues. Any thoughts on where to start looking first? Thanks Quote Link to comment
motavated Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 I friend with the same problem. I told him to put the points back in. But your came stock with the Electric distributor. He runs it and after 5 minutes it just stops and has a hard time turning back on... Runs good until it warms up! so its really weird... Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Fuel pump going tits up. Replace. Check to make sure you're not boiling fuel also. Make sure baffles are in place if any, and check float for sinking. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 check you spark plugs... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Check the fuel level in the small round glass bull's eye in the front of the carb. It should run at or near the dot in the middle. I suspect that the carb is flooding which isn't a problem when the motor is cold or driving down the highway but when warmed up and shut off there will be trouble restarting. Check your plugs and they will be black sooty and dry. Have you changed anything on this car? Different carb, fuel pump, have you removed the return line to the tank? Quote Link to comment
noguice Posted September 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 Other than replacing some dry rotted hoses, and the previous issues with the alternator, nothing else has been touched. To the best of my knowledge, It's the original carb and has not been tampered with. I'll check that bulls eye tomorrow, I wasn't aware it had one. The spark plugs look like what Haynes considers "normal" and are within the proper gap range. I have replaced the cap and rotor but haven't touched anything else on the distributor. The fuel pump is also to the best of my knowledge original, or at least has been on there for years. I went on and put one on order, it was on my list of "to dos" anyway. Also thought it could be the ignition coil going bad. I'll double check all these things tomorrow and report progress. the pump will not be in until friday. would be nice if that was it, but we'll see. If carb issue, would that be something i'll have to look at rebuilding it? Thanks Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 ohm out your coil, if no tester then take to Oreily's they will check for you.. good luck..let's know. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 The problem with an intermittent problem is it will test good in a shop. Next time it does this pull a plug wire, stick an old plug in the end and lay it on a grounded surface and crank the motor. If the coil is working there will be spark.g Quote Link to comment
noguice Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Check the fuel level in the small round glass bull's eye in the front of the carb. It should run at or near the dot in the middle. I suspect that the carb is flooding which isn't a problem when the motor is cold or driving down the highway but when warmed up and shut off there will be trouble restarting. Check your plugs and they will be black sooty and dry. Have you changed anything on this car? Different carb, fuel pump, have you removed the return line to the tank? I checked the carb through the peep hole as mentioned and at idle, it's fine, dead center. however after driving to the store i checked it again before heading home and it was empty. let it idle for a few minutes until it was back up to the center and had no problem driving home. checked it again and it was empty again. the guy at AZ said it may be choke related... I will also say that even when it's running fine, it does have (what i've always called) a dieseling sound going up hill under acceleration. I'm going to go on and throw the new fuel pump on, whether that's the problem or not, to my knowledge it may very well be the original and a new one won't hurt. also went on a put new plugs in and picked up a pcv to put in. unrelated, have any of you done electric radiator fan conversions? if so, which fan do you recommend. I'd like to improve my cooling and free up the rotational mass on the engine. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 Best to trouble shoot and find the problem than throwing parts and money at it. Is there a strong gas smell when shut off? Any chance the carb is leaking? Poor fuel delivery could also be a plugged filter or gas line kinked. New pump won't fix that. Choke either works or does not. Take lid off air filter and look at choke plate. Warm up engine (about 7 min.), choke plate is fully open and vertical... Cold motor choke plate is closed or partly closed. . Quote Link to comment
noguice Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 There is a gas smell. Would that be a hose (fluid leak) or gasket (fluid or vapor)? I don't think i've noticed any sign of dripping, but i'll double check. I did grab a fuel filter while i was out, will put that on and see if it helps and start checking for kinks and leaks. Quote Link to comment
noguice Posted September 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 put the filter on and took it out for a couple mile drive to get it hot. the fuel level in the carb is still at the center mark.... maybe that did it, but i'll update if the problem continues. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 My 521 the needle valve would stick. A old Black guy showed me in the parking lot. He gently hit the banjo fitting where the gas would go in and the sight glass then filled back up after a few cranks. I swapped out to a weber DGV later. Quote Link to comment
hogboy52 Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 .. Not sure of this carb but are there two brass plugs under the float bowl? If so they are access to the main jets and if loose will drain the bowl. Quote Link to comment
yellowdatsun Posted September 5, 2011 Report Share Posted September 5, 2011 Sounds like the needle is getting stuck. Fuel delivery is probably fine since it can fill itself back up, which rules out the pump, line, and filter. The other possibility is that it's boiling the fuel off with hot stop-and-go driving. It seems that any/all problems you're having are related to the carb itself. Quote Link to comment
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