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Oil pan bar?


Just Joel

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For lack of a better name, what is the bar that runs along the flange at the back corner of the oil pan on my l20b? It bolts down using the oil pan bolts and is form fit like a factory piece but I see no reference to it in the fsm or the other manuals I have. Should I put it back on or is it needed at all?

 

Thanks

Joel

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PUT IT BACK ON! I forgot to, and i'm going to be replacing my thick cork gasket and adding it back now, because mine's pouring some out for it's homies that died on the streets. It's like a reinforcement for the oil pan bolts for a small section of the pan right? It's a bitch to do when it's already installed.

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PUT IT BACK ON! I forgot to, and i'm going to be replacing my thick cork gasket and adding it back now, because mine's pouring some out for it's homies that died on the streets. It's like a reinforcement for the oil pan bolts for a small section of the pan right? It's a bitch to do when it's already installed.

 

Cork gasket?!?

:hmm:

 

Why are cork gaskets still being made?

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IDK, what's wrong with them?

 

Besides cracking easily after a short amount of time or heat?

Nothing.

 

And being a terrible pain to get off when replacing?

Nothing.

 

Let me guess...Victor Reinz gasket kit?

 

I've never had good luck with them, and prefer something else...that may be just me though.

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Besides cracking easily after a short amount of time or heat?

Nothing.

 

And being a terrible pain to get off when replacing?

Nothing.

 

Let me guess...Victor Reinz gasket kit?

 

I've never had good luck with them, and prefer something else...that may be just me though.

 

What has been on my my L16 for forever. Came off easy. Came of the L18 easy, twice.

 

And they are probably Fel-Pro. I cant find many other brands near by...

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FelPro has a weird textured rubber oil pan gasket with their kit.

Have a brand new kit I just got.

 

I know Victor Reinz is notorious for having cork gaskets in their kits.

 

Never dealt with cork on a Datto...

But on everything else I've ever worked on with cork has been a nightmare.

Oil pans. Trans pans. Valve covers.

 

Even other techs I've worked with bitch and whine about cork.

 

 

Anyways...total thread jack.

I don't have any clue the brackets OP is talking of.

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lol... I got excited when I saw I had eight responses ;)

 

This bar is shaped and drilled for just the back corner, for about five holes in each dirrection. No pics off hand (I'm on my phone at work) but why would nissan only bar a small portion of the pan flange? Seems like there should be a lot more if these if their intent was to reinforce the lip? Anyone know what I'm talking about? Must not be a very common thing for these old l motors...

 

Thanks

Joel

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I have the bar on my motors as well. Not sure why its needed, but if you have it, use it. I have used it on mine even when i didn't want to and haven't had any issues. Guess they put it there for a reason? Probably to even out the pressure holding the gasket tight. So far, no leaks :D

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I believe they came stock on the Z car engines and basically they allow you to tighten the pan down without distorting the pan rail(as long as you dont over tighten it) and causing a leak in the lowest part of the pan keep it in there they help

 

Clayton

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It's a reinforcement for flexing, thus opening the back end of the oil pan and causing a leak. Use with or without. No reason not to use it really.

 

As far as oil pan gaskets go, cork sucks. I don't use gaskets anymore. The Right Stuff gasket maker only. It's a bitch to get off, but I'd rather spend 30 minutes scraping than deal with an oil pan leak. I've sealed the 510 and the truck with Right Stuff, never had leak one. Pretty much using it on all oil pan gaskets unless otherwise specified. Just make sure the pick up tube doesn't hit the bottom of the pan.

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  • 13 years later...

Do you know which side of the oil pan does the L bracket go?  Driver or passenger.  I installed a felpro gasket on my l20b 620 and the back of it has a small leak. I installed the bracket on the passenger side.  the oil moisture is on the driver side.  Do I have it on the wrong side?  I got an OEM gasket that I am planning on changing if the leak continues.  I retorque all the bolts to see if it helps.

 

Thank you

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 11124-U0100 OIL PAN REINFORCEMENT from 1972 (designed for the 610, was used on the last year of the 510 as well)

 

Goes on the left side (driver's side)

 

#33 is this diagram

L20B_OIL_PAN.jpg.7f78a84bf3b0fa917d7efd1b16dd30e3.jpg

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Yup. 

 

If changing the gasket get a hammer and dolly and flatten the bumps caused by over tightening the pan bolts into a soft gasket. On my 710 I got a second L bracket and continued around the right side also.  

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1 hour ago, Fidencio74 said:

I installed a felpro gasket on my l20b 620 and the back of it has a small leak

In addition to the oil pan gasket, the factory service manual says you need one more thing: "Oil pan should be tightened in criss-cross pattern to a final torque of 0.6 to 0.9 kg-m (4.3 to 6.5 ft-lb)."

 

That is a very light torque. If you tightened it more than that, you may need to remove the pan and hammer the flange straight again in order to fix the leak

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I just checked again, and the leak is coming from the passenger side where the bracket is.  I am not sure where I saw that the bracket goes on the passenger side.  I torqued the shit out of the bolts.  now there is a small drip on the floor.  just lately it was just after a drive.  I had them torque at 5 ft-tq.  I thought it was loose.  I also think the bolts I places on the bracket were too long.  I just got some 16mm to replace the 20mm.

 

The oil pan seemed straight when I first installed.

 

Thank you 

Edited by Fidencio74
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1 hour ago, Fidencio74 said:

I had them torque at 5 ft-tq.  I thought it was loose. 

That is not loose, that is the factory specification

 

Almost always oil pan leaks are caused when a previous owner had them overtightened, distorting the oil pan around a bolt hole

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If the pan has ever been installed with RTV, that dried up RTV can get into the threaded holes and cause the bolt to bottom out. The easiest way to get that old RTV out of the threaded hole is by using a small pick and compressed air, but be careful. That projectile comes out fast and can hit you in the face like a bullet. In extreme cases, the dried RTV is so lodged in there that you need to chase the threads with a tap to get it out.

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1 hour ago, ggzilla said:

That is not loose, that is the factory specification

 

Almost always oil pan leaks are caused when a previous owner had them overtightened, distorting the oil pan around a bolt hole

OK,  I will check the oil pan again.

Thank you

Edited by Fidencio74
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24 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

If the pan has ever been installed with RTV, that dried up RTV can get into the threaded holes and cause the bolt to bottom out. The easiest way to get that old RTV out of the threaded hole is by using a small pick and compressed air, but be careful. That projectile comes out fast and can hit you in the face like a bullet. In extreme cases, the dried RTV is so lodged in there that you need to chase the threads with a tap to get it out.

I didn't see any rtv on the pan when I replaced the gasket, but I will check again once I take it appart.

 

Thank you

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