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flat black or rust?


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heres the engine guys, i thought maybe it would be dumb to post pics of a broken engine, unless you guys wanna see the damage.

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after cleaning the block and inspecting i noticed that it seems to be a z20 rather than a z22 with and with a z24 head. from what ive heard about how quick the engine is and multiple accounts of close friends saying it beats 2 litre bugs (and all with the butterflies opening only 3/4 of the way, id say she'll be a screamer, dont know exactly what the displacement will be not that ive seen its a z20 but im still happy, its a good buy, and itll be faster than my seized engine for sure

 

 

Looks like a Z20S from an '80-'81 A10. Even has the optional dogleg 5 speed on it. That is a Z24 head and valve cover. Internally the head is the same as the Z20/22 but has larger squar-ish intake ports with rounded corners. The Z20/22 had round ports. The Z20 motor is basically an L20B motor with a Z head on it and many internal parts will swap.

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and my high low beam switch was fucked ???

most time its just a contack on steering wheel. soem times if a steering wheel was changed it contack wont reach. just puts a ground to the relay.

simple never seen them really go bad@ least w/510s

yeah, i know thats normally the problem but we tried everything and it didnt work, well it worked, but i was only able to flash the low beams and had a high beam constant, i cleaned all the contacts and tried to put it back to stock but nothing worked. probably the relay but the headlight relays were both working fine. :blink: whatever, the switch is actually cooler imho, i like little custom stuff that makes it so others dont know how to drive your car haha

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Looks like a Z20S from an '80-'81 A10. Even has the optional dogleg 5 speed on it. That is a Z24 head and valve cover. Internally the head is the same as the Z20/22 but has larger squar-ish intake ports with rounded corners. The Z20/22 had round ports. The Z20 motor is basically an L20B motor with a Z head on it and many internal parts will swap.

i dont want to have to put an l head on it, seeing as how the top end has only 500 miles on it, i just cant seem to get it to run right. when i rev it it stays revved and gradually comes down in rpm's over the course of 5 seconds about. maybe there is an intake leak, i noticed that one of those o rings was busted and i threw it together figuring that it would still seal haha. ill get new o rings today and see if that solves my (what i believe to be ) lean backfire and vaccum leak.

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got the truck registered yesterday, and got the new exhaust put on. 2 and 1/4 piping into a magnafllow and dumping to the ground right in front of the axle., been driving it around and its really fun. i havnt gotten it to idle correctly but it runs great off idle. its quick, spins the tires (mildly because i have really ggrippy tires) but its fun. maybe a video soon. stay posted

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not going to be able to post up a video of it burning out until i get the rar end welded up sorry guys, i dont wanna post up a video of a lame peg leg burnout :P but today my truck was overheating a bit, i realized that shit tons of water was missing from the radiator, but nothing was being burned off or anything, and i saw a puddle of coolant beneath the car near the overflow tube, so i went and got another cap and filled her up and took her for a ride. i went on a 3 lap circuit on the freeway for a mile, off, back on the other way, and so on and so forth. pulled off in a taco bell parking lot because it was well lit, and purged the cap, and there was hardly any steam released and i had full coolant. i purposefully drove it hard to make it overheat again but it wouldnt so im fairly certain that a 4$ radiator cap was causing my troubles. the small things count right? but other than that its running awesome and i brought the truck to the long beach motorama. i might take my tailgate and hood in tomorrow to get pinstriped, or probably just the hood, either way. ill post up some pics if i do.

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  • 5 weeks later...

got some work dont in the time i havnt posted. after a few trips to the junkyard and friends piles of parts, i have found 6 super fresh headlight rings to replace my broken ones held together by duct tape. i also had to replace my radiator and so i found a vw one in the junkyard but mistakenly got the one with a separate fluid expansion tank, but hey, its an interesting setup and i kinda like the big plastic ball in my engine bay so im going to stick with it. i modified the mounts to allow the wide radiator to fit in the space allowed and now i have to make upper mounts and mount the fan. i also moved the battery to the bed of the truck to clean up the engine compartment and tucked a few parts of the wiring harness(not really tucks but rather zip-tied under metal pieces so theyre not visible. i also got my air filter installed and my carbs tuned to where they will idle along with having my heater fixed. when all of this is finalized i will post up some pics, i am currently out of a camera but ill find a way to get pics up soon so y'all dont say its a honduh. future plans include the rear axle from a '74-ish celica with 4 link and panhard bar suspension and spring over axle. also i've decided to take a rally look approach to the build which will include some big ass mud-flaps, have the stance to where theyre almost touching the ground, and possibly some federal rally tires and 5 lug setup all around. z-car seats are soon to come and i picked up an old fiat steering wheel in the junkyard reading "ferrari" which looks very old school and will have a nice touch. the auto-meter monster tach will be going in soon also but i am undecided on its positioning. under the dash near the steering column or on the dash to the left of the drivers seat. Opinions welcome. once again, sorry for no pics, just thought i needed an update

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stop leak didnt work, i tried everything and the shop said it needed to be re-cored, and estimates that i recieved were from between 300-400$ so i decided to core it in to the junkyard and get a vw radiator for some extra cooling. i had to cut off the lower mounts to allow it to fit and not i have to make some aluminum brackets to fit it. i got the electric fan to mount with just some zipties through the radiator and i also painted my grille and the area behind the grille. i broke a headlight ring and now have two good ones, one with two screws, and one missing. battery relocation should be done tomorrow along with radiator install.

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  • 3 weeks later...

so an update, sort of, no pictures, because this update is just an idea... i measured the distance from frame rail to frame rail on my 620 today, and i also measure the distance from bolt to bolt on the 280z subframe, whad'ya know, they line up. so, you are all going to hate me i know, for cutting up two datsuns to make one, and im sorry in advance, but i will be, in the distant future, will not only be swapping in my l28, but also the complete front suspension, subframe, and rack and pinion steering from my 280z. after measuring some things i have concluded that the subframe can be mounted with a very simple 4 bolts. the only other thing i will have to worry about is cutting off the suspension tower from the 280z and welding them onto the engine bay area of the truck. and on a side idea just for shits and giggles i might see how difficult it would be to bolt up some 280z fenders and the hood to my truck, that probably wont actually happen but if it does, it might look cool. and here comes the tidal wave of hate, rolleyes.gif. but if you do have any positive comments or suggestions, feel free. and whatdya guys think. i did my measuring and it should all fit right up, so in a week or two i might just dive on it

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