610 street demon resurection

[lynchfourtwenty]

lol nice!

[bonvo]

well the car stoped charging. i replaced the regulator it brought the voltage up a little, but still not up to the magical 13.5 volts. I start looking at other things. first i run the negative battery cable from the head to the block. (cast iron = better conducter then aluminum) ran a small 2 gadge cable from the negative cable to the original spot on the head. that didnt bring it up but, the starter grabbed better then before, bonus lol. so my dad and i start poking around and find that the connector for the fusable links was hot. we eliminated it and replaced all the fusable links. That helped but its still not charging at an idle and when i turn on the headlights fog lights stereo the blower motor and the cooling fans it was at 12.2 volts. i checked the alternator it was putting out 13.6 with all those loads on soooooooo i got a bad regulator out of the box. im waiting for autozone to get me another one, that was an entirely different nightmare. :angry: (more on that in general disscussion) pics later if i can get my computer to read the memory card for my camera.

[mike]

Sucks about the electrical shit but it sounds like youve got a handle on it... When are you going to finish the black and red paint? That combination looks sharp as hell... Do you have all 4 slots polished up for it too?

 

...If you want an extra grill let me know... Its looking like a 610 is not in my distant future and Ive got a fairly decent late style grill hanging in my garage.

[bonvo]

Sucks about the electrical shit but it sounds like youve got a handle on it... When are you going to finish the black and red paint? That combination looks sharp as hell... Do you have all 4 slots polished up for it too?

 

...If you want an extra grill let me know... Its looking like a 610 is not in my distant future and Ive got a fairly decent late style grill hanging in my garage.

 

yeah ill get it sorted out ive done it before as for the paint im not gonna go that route i decided to stop with the rattlecan its covered in original paint rattlecan or sealer primer at the moment body work will start in the spring im going with a blue color that can be seen earlier in this thread

 

yeah i have the other 2 slot mags there just on the front of my dads mustang at the moment and i have to get to that to get them

 

got a pic of the grill? late model? early?

[bonvo]

finally got a pic of the replaced fusable links

[thisismatt]

cast iron = better conducter then aluminum

Say what? Aluminum has a lower resistivity than iron.

[thisismatt]

That helped but its still not charging at an idle and when i turn on the headlights fog lights stereo the blower motor and the cooling fans it was at 12.2 volts. i checked the alternator it was putting out 13.6 with all those loads on soooooooo i got a bad regulator out of the box.

Why could it not be the alternator?

[Hyphy]

at idle with those loads you probably wouldnt be getting full voltage anyway. When I had my s10 and all 4 compressors kicked on, I had to hold the rpms up to keep the voltage up. I know the comps were near 80 amp draw, the Alt might have been a 90 amper. E-fan could be 10-15, headlights are maybe 25.... Had you ever checked voltage under those conditions before this electrical issue? Maybe its right where it should be? Just some thoughts.

[bonvo]

Say what? Aluminum has a lower resistivity than iron.

i dont know the physics of it but i know electricity likes steel better then aluminum

 

Why could it not be the alternator?

 

because the alternator tested at over 14 volts and i lost over a volt threw the old regulator got a new one today and im only loosing .2 volts threw this one

 

at idle with those loads you probably wouldnt be getting full voltage anyway. When I had my s10 and all 4 compressors kicked on, I had to hold the rpms up to keep the voltage up. I know the comps were near 80 amp draw, the Alt might have been a 90 amper. E-fan could be 10-15, headlights are maybe 25.... Had you ever checked voltage under those conditions before this electrical issue? Maybe its right where it should be? Just some thoughts.

 

 

didnt check them before but when the charging system is putting out 13 volts with no load on it thats just low and after i got the new regulator today it worked im getting 14.4 at the battery with no load and with every load possible on im at 13.4 voltage at the alternator with no load is 14.6

[Hyphy]

saweeet...*cough*GMonewire*cough*

[bonvo]

saweeet...*cough*GMonewire*cough*

 

when money allows thats possible

[datzenmike]

(cast iron = better conducter then aluminum)

 

Say what? Aluminum has a lower resistivity than iron.

 

Sorry there bonvo but thisismatt is correct there. Aluminum is a far far better conducter than iron or steel. The list below is ohms per meter I think. This is why aluminum is used in house wiring and not steel. Aluminum is almost 7 times better.

 

aluminum 26.5

brass 64

chromium 126

copper 17.1

gold 22.1

iron 96.1

lead 208

lithium 92.8

mercury (0 ℃) 941

manganese 1440

nichrome 1500

nickel 69.3

palladium 105.4

platinum 105

plutonium 1414

silver 15.9

solder 150

steel, plain 180

steel, stainless 720

 

 

The word for today is...resistivity

[zerow]

Sorry there bonvo but thisismatt is correct there. Aluminum is a far far better conducter than iron or steel. The list below is ohms per meter I think. This is why aluminum is used in house wiring and not steel. Aluminum is almost 7 times better.

 

aluminum 26.5

brass 64

chromium 126

copper 17.1

gold 22.1

iron 96.1

lead 208

lithium 92.8

mercury (0 ℃) 941

manganese 1440

nichrome 1500

nickel 69.3

palladium 105.4

platinum 105

plutonium 1414

silver 15.9

solder 150

steel, plain 180

steel, stainless 720

 

 

The word for today is...resistivity

 

Aluminum does have a good resistivity, no arguement there. It is good for long distance electrical transmission wire. However, aluminum is not the typical house wiring material of choice, copper is. The resistivity of copper is better than aluminum, and, to add insult to injury, aluminum melts at a lower temperature than copper (by almost 750 degrees). Iron melts at a higher temperature than copper (by more than double aluminum, and 800 degrees more than copper)

 

Aluminum: 1220 degrees F

Copper: 1981.4 degrees F

Iron: 2795 degrees F

 

I would bolt direct to the cast iron block, versus the aluminum cylinder head. Why? Gaskets and bolts do not carry electricity like direct metal-to metal contact. The alternator bolts direct to a bracket that bolts to the block, and attaching to the block makes it the most direct connection to the battery, despite the metal that it is made with.

[datzenmike]

Aluminum was subbed because of the cost of copper.

 

Nissan uses the head for the ground cable. The Starter bolts to the block for ground and that's hundreds of amps draw so the alternator is fine. Besides, the alt is also strapped to the aluminum timing cover, which in turn is bolted to the aluminum head (and the block) and the head is attached to the block with 10 huge bolts. Everything is connected.

 

If the block were grounded there may be issues with galvanic action between the block and head. I'll go with the Nissan engineers choice of grounding the head.

[Hyphy]

is there a down side to doing both? Why not daisy chain the block to the head to the chassis or whatever if it a major concern. Granted most grounding setups I have seen have come off the head or intake manifold, that may be just because they are easier to access. Ultimately, i think its a matter of spliting hairs here.

 

Being that I deal with electrical solutions at work, I must say I have seen both copper and aluminum. Your main feed cables to your breakerpanel are likely aluminum. They wont see the heat that a single circuit bein drawn near capacity would. The reast of the wiring after panels out to lights/outlets/etc would be copper. This is the same for most commercial applications aswell. In addition, resistance causes heat to a certain degree so the less resistivity a material has, the less heat will be generated. This makes the distinction alot less cut and dry.

[bonvo]

i have both i have the battery cable bolted to the block and a second cable from the sam point on the block to the original point on the head

[zerow]

i have both i have the battery cable bolted to the block and a second cable from the sam point on the block to the original point on the head

Two grounds or one...I'l take the two. In fact, the more grounds the better. Adding one for the radiator support only helps your horns and lights. An extra under the dash will help instrumentation, an extra from the taillights to the trunk lock striker helps your taillights and rear side marker lights, etc. etc ad nauseum. With the common problem with old Datsun wiring being, well, the common wire, its best to keep them running longer with a little extra wire.

[72240z]

Two grounds or one...I'l take the two. In fact, the more grounds the better.

 

I was never a subscriber to this until I got one of those bs ground kits for one of my old z32's. It's just a center main that spiders out to various places they suggest. There was a drastic difference in a number of areas like interior lights, headlights, engine response, battery charge. The car just flat out ran and acted better. Granted a z32 is like 100 times more electrically complicated then any datsun and stock is def functional enough but the theory is sound.

 

What also shocks me is how auto manufactures have either forgot or just ignore this. My moms 99 grand shit had an electrical problem where lights would dim and other things just wouldn't work sometimes. I found the stock main ground is installed over a painted area lol, can't even take the time to clean ground contacts points when assembling, amazing. I was reading like 10.2 at the engine prior and 14 after. A drastic difference.

[Hyphy]

or at least add one of those ribbed washers that digs into the paint for assured contact.

[bonvo]

see i have both im gonna run yet anothe directly to the starter later

[72240z]

Fram? :-X

[lilhustler521]

Very cool car!!! If your starter motor is working the ground to your motor is sufficient as you starter draws the most current of anything on your car. Something more important is either a ground from your engine or negative terminal to your chassis. This is important because if you dont have one your chassis will get ground through something like a throttle cable. I dont know if the 610 has throttle linkage like a 510 or a cable like most cars, but if it is a cable it can get hot from the current passing through it and melt the sheeth. As for your charging problem, I think you might be running into using more than you are producing. It happened to me on my 521, I put H4 headlights in it and I started having charging problems. If you do some math, the headlights are 60 watts on high beam 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 amps each times 4 headlights is 20 watts plus electric fans and tail lights ect. I dont remember what the datsun alternator puts out but I know it was less than I was using and I bet you are having the same problem. It is very easy to put in a higher output internally regulated alternator from a newer model in your car.

 

Dave

[bonvo]

Fram? :-X

 

the gasket on my old filter had a cut in it and it was leaking so i got a replacment at the closest parts store and they only had fram

 

Very cool car!!! If your starter motor is working the ground to your motor is sufficient as you starter draws the most current of anything on your car. Something more important is either a ground from your engine or negative terminal to your chassis. This is important because if you dont have one your chassis will get ground through something like a throttle cable. I dont know if the 610 has throttle linkage like a 510 or a cable like most cars, but if it is a cable it can get hot from the current passing through it and melt the sheeth. As for your charging problem, I think you might be running into using more than you are producing. It happened to me on my 521, I put H4 headlights in it and I started having charging problems. If you do some math, the headlights are 60 watts on high beam 60 watts / 12 volts = 5 amps each times 4 headlights is 20 watts plus electric fans and tail lights ect. I dont remember what the datsun alternator puts out but I know it was less than I was using and I bet you are having the same problem. It is very easy to put in a higher output internally regulated alternator from a newer model in your car.

 

Dave

 

i know the ground is good but i like overkill and i got the charging system fixed as i suspected it was a regulator im now charging at 14.4 volts

[bonvo]

well its been a while andi havent done much im n the parts gathering stage to finish up the ac for the summer gotta make a few hardlines and such but i figured i would throw some pics up that i took the oher night

[datzenmike]

nice...