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610 street demon resurection


bonvo

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"im hoping to get the exhaust done sometime next week not sure if it will happen but im hopping :P"

 

Great to see other 610 fanatics getting the 610's back on the road! Keep up the good work!

 

Flowmaster just lost their patent licensing and now there are knockoffs available made in China or Mexico that look, sound, rust and smell just like the originals, lol,:lol: but may be a little bit cheaper to get.

 

I was going to put on a used Flowmaster with new pipe, and it would have cost around 215. with the hangers, but instead I was able to get a new knockoff for just 30. bucks more complete with 2 and a quarter inch pipe, bends, welds and hangers.

 

2 and a quarter inch pipe just clears through the hole in the X-member without hitting on torque up. 2.5 might fit, but could hit the sides and resonate the whole car! :eek: Had that happen before.

 

Does your Weber carby have a cable linkage on it? If so, are you going to convert to cable from mechanical?

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really wow im amazed that a company that has been around for so long lost its copyright :eek:

 

i have had a few people reccomend magnaflo so what im gonna do is have the system done then have the guy tack a flowmaster in then a magnaflo see which i like

 

im going 2 1/4 anythign else would be to big for the little l20b and i plan on a flex pipe in the system somewhere probibly at the header flange

 

the carb is set up for a cable if you look at the beginning of the video you should be able to see the new stainless braided throttle cable im modifying and making brakets for cable is so much better then linkage :D

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I've heard good things about magnaflows also, but I thought they cost more?

 

yeah, anything larger than 2 1/4 would strictly be for wide open racing horsepower at top ends speeds. Need the backpressure and low end torque for daily driver/street use.

 

There may have been a kit made for cable conversion by redline. I actually prefer the mechanical linkage with a strong return spring. I think that the fuel injected 610's from Japan had cable type to operate the throttle body.

 

That carb can also be modified to run at full power at all times by converting it to a synchronuous type and having both barrels open together instead of waiting for the secondary to kick in at half to full throttle. It will give more low end power and torque that way and only use a bit more fuel. Much cheaper than an outlaw 38/38 but with similar results.

 

The SCCA requires the use of the 32/36 for ITB, but allows for the modification to it for maximum power output. :cool:

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What are you using for the brackets?

 

so far ive been using some chunks of 1/8th inch plate i have around the house but i dont have a section long enough to make this braket it has to snake around the filler neck or go up and over the radiator itself

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I used 1/8 by 1in. alum bends easy,for a radiator bracket on my old BMW i had worked good.

 

i would use aluminum but the only aluminum at this house is in the form of cylinder heads and beer cans :lol: the plus sides of aluminum would be that its easier to work with so im not out hammering bends in it in 97 degree sunlight :P

 

here are the pics of how its shaping up

DSC04390.jpg

 

fan and water pump are cutting it close

DSC04391.jpg

DSC04394.jpg

 

throttle cable set up in the works

DSC04392.jpg

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I have pallets full of scrap aluminum and you should know. You helped break it down. NO EXCUSES!!!!

 

And yea, Id put ur flex pipe right after the header flange.

 

oh yeah i forgot about that lol the flex pipe is gonna be a little bit further down in the exhaust if it was right at the header flange it would drag on the ground

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Hey Bonvo, is that a 12" fan? How good does it work? Keep it cool? I've got a 12" for mine and that looks about the same spot I'll have to mount mine.

 

its a 10 incher but im running 2 one in the front as a pusher and this one in the back as a puller but before i made the final mount brakets i was only running the front one and it would switch off after a minute or 2 and stay off for a while in 100 degree heat i got it off of ebay and its rated at 1200 cfm

 

a 12 incher should do fine just be sure its run threw a fan controler or at least a relay so it gets all the power it could ever need

 

on a seperate note anyone know where i can get new caps for the brake resevors?

Edited by bonvo
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nice, are all the wheels matching or? and are you gonna run a front bumper? that one side of the car looks silver still .. is it?

 

the wheels arent matching yet as for the front bumper i plan to run it after i get it straightened and re chromed im not gonna continue to rattle can it its gonna get a real paint job soon im just gonna kill the rust and primer it

Edited by bonvo
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