610racecar Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 Okay, I blew it- the cam tensioner must have fallen out when I replaced my head gasket in my L20B. So how much do I need to pull to get the front cover off? The head? The oil pan? There are references to a youtube video in some of the posts I searched, but I didn't have much luck finding. Any links to it or some of the more detailed posts on this task? Thanks, Marc in Indy 610 Racecar Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Probably fell into your Oil pan. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 They probably meant this video. It will get you used to the motor quickly. http://www.vimeo.com/19077890 Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 just remove your accessories, dizzy, oil pump, and all the front half of the oil pan bolts and loosen all the rear ones so you can drop the pan down and then you can pull it down and out. 1 Quote Link to comment
ariascarlos1990 Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 No need to take the head off to take the front cover off. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Drain and remove the rad for room and to protect it. Put a 27mm socket and ratchet on the crankshaft nut and lock it against the frame or add some pipe so that it is jammed against the floor. Bump the starter and this will snap the bolt loose. The pulley will slowly move forward and off by tapping the back side of the pulley with the heavy socket. I've taken dozens of pulleys off using this method and have never had to use a puller. Time the motor to TDC on the compression stroke. This will make it easier to get the oil pump/dizzy spindle timed when assembling it. Don't forget the tiny 4 X 10mm bolts at the front and sides of the head that thread down into the timing cover. There is also a through bolt on the water pump that passes through the timing cover into the front of the block that must come out. You should not, nor need RTV sealant on the actual timing gasket but a small dab in the two corners of the head/top of timing cover and two in the corners of the oil pan/bottom of timing cover is ok. Avoid the use of too much RTV as most of it squeezes out and falls inside the engine. This will end up in the oil pan and clog the oil pick up screen. The timing set will likely include a front crank seal so change it while the cover is off. Place a block of wood over it and pound into place with hammer. Rub some grease on the seal lips or at least some oil so it doesn't start up dry. Quote Link to comment
610racecar Posted July 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 You guys are the best! Everything came apart easily. The starter trick to get off the pulley bolt was brilliant, as my impact wrench would not fit in there. This took about 1 1/2 hours to pull apart. Much easier than pulling the head like the factory shop manual alluded had to be done. Tensioner was just sitting there loose at the bottom of the cover along with with the bent-up spring, so I didn't have to fish it out of the oil pan. Parts ordered, so should be able to button it up next weekend. Thanks!!! Marc in Indy Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Yeah I've heard that they end up in the oil pan but from what I've seen it would have to be ground up by the crank sprocket first to fit. Are you replacing the old guides too? It would be a good idea. Once the chain is on be sure to push the guide above it as far to the right as you can to remove as much chain slack as possible. This will keep the tensioner as far back in it's bore as possible, ready to work. Hainz has a video for doing this maybe someone could post a link to it.? Quote Link to comment
610racecar Posted July 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 New guides are part of the kit- the plan is replace the chain, sprockets, guides, tensioner and front seal as long as everything is apart. Thanks for the tip on the guide installation. The timing cover seal is replaced from the front of the cover, correct? Thanks, Marc Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 yup. goes in and out from the front Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2011 Report Share Posted July 30, 2011 Yup with the cup shape and spring thing inwards. Found the video for the guide setting. Watch the whole series. Watch around 9:40: Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Yup with the cup shape and spring thing inwards. Found the video for the guide setting. Watch the whole series. Mike I had already posted the video. I uploaded it to vimeo so it could be a complete video with no parts. Quote Link to comment
610racecar Posted August 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Mike I had already posted the video. I uploaded it to vimeo so it could be a complete video with no parts. This video is a must see for anyone working on a L20B!!! Marc Quote Link to comment
crackerjack69 Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I changed my cam tonight and the pully wouldn't go back on. Checked the tensioner and I could see it was in place. While I was poking at it, I heard the chain skip over a tooth, lol. The tensioner must have gone a little crooked and got jammed, but didn't fall :( Which really doesn't matter at this point because I'll have to take the cover off to fix the timing. Good chance to polish the front cover, and replace chain, crank seal, and water pump :D I suppose my point was... This video series is excellent and gave me the confidence I need to start overhauling my L16. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 the trick to doing a head gasket while the front cover is still on Is get that timming chain tool. jam it down there. then when moving the sprocket to another setting the dowl might not line up. As youll but the chain link you marked. might not be ligning up right. Key is move the cam in the direction of the mark. then slip the sprocket on and bolt it down. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 I had a bitch of a time getting my sprocket on the cam.....actually ended up putting a used one back on it.. Gave me just a little bit more length on the chain....not much...but enough Would not go on......even with 2 levers prying the sprocket up. The chain was really tight....zero slack, when I initially installed the TC assembly Weather this was due to the L guides on the Z block...or the L head on the Z block.....not knowing. When I changed the L timing cover...I backed the 1 guide off a tad Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Key is move the cam in the direction of the mark. then slip the sprocket on and bolt it down. usually by turning the cam to the right will slacken the tite side of chain just enough to get the spocket up ENOUGH to the dowel. I had bought about 8 timming chain tools they were 5$ apc. but I cant find them on the O rileys site anymore. I had got them from the CSK site(schucks). Jason Wong in Canada had accss to some also. the tools were nice as they are a soft plasctic that gives a little. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Key is move the cam in the direction of the mark. then slip the sprocket on and bolt it down. usually by turning the cam to the right will slacken the tite side of chain just enough to get the spocket up ENOUGH to the dowel. I had bought about 8 timming chain tools they were 5$ apc. but I cant find them on the O rileys site anymore. I had got them from the CSK site(schucks). Jason Wong in Canada had accss to some also. the tools were nice as they are a soft plasctic that gives a little. Ya I know....but..there was literally no slack.....really :D I could back the crank up....and the cam sprocket moves simultaneously. Which......is one way to determine chain slack without pulling anything apart. That's why I mentioned (this) to Wayno on his LZ build. I've installed a few TC kits/sprockets etc.......and the LZ app, is by far, the tightest. Quote Link to comment
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