Doc Wheeler Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 1974 Datsun B210 engine was swapped into Ratrod T-bucket frame. *I managed to pull the engine and install.. But had removed dizzy and plug wires. Now- All wired up- I'm screwed- ...... it won't fire. *I may need to add a "grounding strap" My engine is a A14 carb and w/points- My distributor turns counter-clockwise.. Q? what is my fireing order... and do I run #1 cyl to TDC and "point the rotor" at the plug wire leading to #1 plug? THANKS! Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 ry this: http://martybugs.net/DatsunMods/specs.cgi Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 [quote name='Doc Wheeler' date='25 July 2011 - 11:09 AM' timestamp='1311617386' post= Q? what is my fireing order... and do I run #1 cyl to TDC and "point the rotor" at the plug wire leading to #1 plug? THANKS! 1-3-4-2 The rest sounds about right Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Oops try this one: http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/tune-ups.htm Quote Link to comment
Doc Wheeler Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 *Cool.. 1-3-4-2 #1 is at 6 o clock- #2- 9oclock #3 at 3 oclock #4 at 12 oclock- and rotor is anti-clockwise. TDC is found when rotor points at #1 port in distributer cap.. and points are just about to open. Q? Is grounding strap "Important?" Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Q? Is grounding strap "Important?" A good ground is always important. Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Yes, I say ground strap is very important. Quote Link to comment
Doc Wheeler Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Do I need.. a "Balast resistor" installed between positive tab on Coil and Ignition switch?? (again this on points distrib.) Thanks- Doc Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 If the car was designed with with a ballast resistor you will have to. Also try to find a book for your car, maybe at Amazaon or someone on this site may sell one to you. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 All inline 4 cylinder engines are 1-3-4-2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 point datsun ignition. 1.6 ohm ballast resisitor and 1.6 ohm Point coil. or just get coil for that year datsun Quote Link to comment
Doc Wheeler Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 A "Ballast resistor" is used to avoid over-heat of the coil if points are closed and left hot. In this application- the donar car has been scrapped.. and I have a blank firewall. *since they are cheap.. we'll add one. Doc Quote Link to comment
Doc Wheeler Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 *Now.. When I pulled the A14 engine I sniped away with cutters to any wire... Reading up today- *I discover 3 wires 12v needed for the carb to function- Choke- anti-diesel.. and-???? fuel shutoff valve??? Doc~ Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Anti-dieseling valve is another name for fuel-cutoff valve or idle-cut solenoid. Same thing. I have several A14 carburetors here, and not aware of any with three wires. They are all two-wire (choke and idle-cutoff). Three wire were used on 1981 and 1982 5-speed MPG 210s vehicles, the 3rd wire was idle switch (microswitch) to control a special circuit, but I think it runs OK without that connected. hey Doc is this your car? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 The negative cable from the battery is usually bolted directly to the head or block so as long as the dizzy is securely bolted down it should ground just fine. Some dizzys have a ground terminal on them and if so won't hurt to run a wire from it to an engine bolt. Quote Link to comment
Doc Wheeler Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 *Update- I ordered new points-condenser-rotor-cap.. and I'm willing to change out wires. 1. Fuel *I now have fuel gushing at line into carb.. from fuel pump as I crank... (I do not see fuel yet by gunning the throttle wire, from accelerator pump- this may occure after bowl fills etc.) 2. Spark- 12v to pos side of coil *confirmed- 12v from neg side to dizzy- *Confirmed- Cap off test- rotor turning counter clockwise.. but no visible spark at points. 12v test shows hot to one side of points.. and subdued spark if jumped by screwdriver etc. Carbon residue on rotor.. All leading to decision to replace old shit with new shit. 3. Anti-diesel valve test? Over- Quote Link to comment
Doc Wheeler Posted July 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 Found "anti-diesel solenoid" test!! 2 leads.. one is 12v other is ground. Power up.. listen for "click".. If no click.. pull valve and disable pin.. install and test.. Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 If this is your car, do you have better pics....pretty cool. :mellow:...we like the pictures, yes we do. Quote Link to comment
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