hang_510 Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 i have an R-160 w/a new nismo pumpkin installed (by me in 2009) after ~200 miles it began making a 'clunk' when shifting, especially under load. ive found a lot of others with similiar noises. much speculation that its the lube (either LSD specific or LSD additives) used. i changed it from the orignal royal purple synthetic to the suby lube. that made no differance. BUT i did not "burn" the clutches by doing a bunch(10+) of circles L&R at the change. this is supposed to be done each time the fluid is changed. it now has ~9000mi on it. today on the way to take the kid to school, something... :huh: happened @ ~75mph. and its not gonna be good... the noise it made :blink: i thought the rear end seized! my sons face went white for minute. i made it off the freeway. reversed to the next on-ramp and exited, got back on the freeway going the other direction and limped it home in 1st gear. had a cop bike 'escort' me the 2mi along the freeway to the next offramp. he asked if i need a tow. uh no thanks, its a datsun. they may break, but they dont leave you stranded! i made the ~10mi trip home, in 1st gear. Quote Link to comment
jefe de jefes Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 You sure it isn't a u joint? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 yes. new 1/2shaft AND driveshaft u-joints. ALL new bearings in the diff and swing arms. EDIT: the oic is not a u joint failure. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 75 in a straight line the LSD isn't really being used so it is likely a bearing or something turning. Excessive gear lash will cause a clunk when the slack is taken up suddenly. If the pinion bearing is bad the lash will go out the window. I've had the pinion so sloppy that it moved into the case far enough to hit the differential case and gouge it up. Tore teeth of the ring gear. You didn't say what it sounded like. Did the car slow suddenly like it was seizing? Has the pinion nut (hidden between the drive shaft end and the companion flange) come loose? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 updated 1 picture is worth the trip to canby and back before it completely failed. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 i was coming out of a long curve when it happened... looks like most of the noise was the drive shaft banging after the ujoint couldnt sustain all the motion. anyone ever see this point fail before? repair? or make a new slotted Xmember? :angry: Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Are you sure it wasn't the u-joint failing and then the resultant binding that cause the diff mounts to get hosed? Seems pretty strange for the diff mounts to fail, especially seeing how it's attached at the mustache bar as well. It looks like they failed violently, and you could verify this by seeing how clean the metal is at the tears. If it was a slow failure there would be rust in the cracks proceeding the final breakage. Or perhaps the diff failed and caused the violent chain reaction that caused the other failures. * shrugs * 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Geeez never seen the bearing caps pop like that. I was thinking like Matt. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Are you sure it wasn't the u-joint failing and then the resultant binding ... how clean the metal is at the tears. :angry: no there are slight cracks on the outer edge of both, but otherwise a violent tear. rear and mousatce bar seem fine. i did a good check before i left to canby. the only thing not replaced was the pinion bearing... it rotates the same as before, it still seems to have too much free play = clunk??? i should have time to rip it out next weekend. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Are you sure it wasn't the u-joint failing and then the resultant binding that cause the diff mounts to get hosed? Seems pretty strange for the diff mounts to fail, especially seeing how it's attached at the mustache bar as well. It looks like they failed violently, and you could verify this by seeing how clean the metal is at the tears. If it was a slow failure there would be rust in the cracks proceeding the final breakage. Or perhaps the diff failed and caused the violent chain reaction that caused the other failures. * shrugs * I was thinking the same thing ,,,, and I must agree ,,, ^^^ and respectfully add ,,, that an off the shelf new part ,,, doesn't mean it is automatically equal or "good" as the rest :) Who knows !? ( scratches head :huh: ) Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted July 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 quality off the shelf at least improves the odds. :unsure: the cap(s) also could have been knocked out completely during the ride home... could a u-joint failure cause that much damage? Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted July 9, 2011 Report Share Posted July 9, 2011 Replace the U-joint a weld new tabs on the crossmember. It most likely won't happen again, since no one has reported this type of failure before. Quote Link to comment
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