Clutch feels worn, but it's all brand new???

[metalmonkey47]

Just noticed today, but it seems like form the day I put in the new clutch kit, it's been slowly feeling slipperier.

 

Just got back from driving it, and the clutch feels just like the one I replaced a few weeks ago! The old one was glassed to hell and back, and had most of the material left on it.

 

When I stopped at a light, I smelled what I can only assume is the clutch burning.

 

My old clutch made it 10,000 + miles from the time I got the car, and was fine until after I replaced clutch slave and master, and after then it seems like the thing is just roasting clutch's.

 

Prior to replacing the hydraulics, I used to be able to spin tires on command but now it's just sloppy. Can't even do it in the rain. I figured, maybe I'd just been hard on it and I'm hurting it, but the last few days I've been as easy as possible, and even pissing off people at lights with my easy slow launches and shifts. And tonight, it's just horrible.

 

 

 

Anybody ever run into this??

 

 

 

PS: It's on my 210.

Edited June 30, 2011 by metalmonkey47

[Ken_B]

Have you ever had your flywheel machined?

Does your rear main seal leak?

[john510]

Yes,i used to have the same problem when i was abusing my clutch doing burnouts and abusive shifting.Im not trying to be a wiseguy.I also figured out that cheap aftermarket clutch parts dont hold up real well compared to more expensive ones.Is everthing adjusted right ?

[ggzilla]

Sounds like you did not have the old clutch adjusted properly, and still don't.

 

You should be able to push the clutch pedal with your pinky and have 1-5 mm play for Datsun 210. If you don't have any, the clutch is already partially engaged. As you know, driving with your clutch partially engaged will eventually burn it out.

 

Get under the car and double-check it. There should be 1-2 mm play at the slave cylinder. With the 210, you can pull back the release lever by hand (against the internal spring) to check the play.

 

Check the clutch play every few months, to ensure there is a little play. The Datsun schedule in the owner's manual says to do a full inspection of the clutch adjustment every 24 months.

[metalmonkey47]

Have you ever had your flywheel machined?

Does your rear main seal leak?

The flywheel was "machined" by hand using some heavy grit sandpaper, as I was instructed. No rear main leak that I've noticed.

 

Yes,i used to have the same problem when i was abusing my clutch doing burnouts and abusive shifting.Im not trying to be a wiseguy.I also figured out that cheap aftermarket clutch parts dont hold up real well compared to more expensive ones.Is everthing adjusted right ?

I can only guess it's adjustment related. I mean, there's always a chance that my driving like an ass is wearing it, but I've been driving as soft as possible the last few days and it's still progessivly worse.

 

Sounds like you did not have the old clutch adjusted properly, and still don't.

 

You should be able to push the clutch pedal with your pinky and have 1-5 mm play for Datsun 210. If you don't have any, the clutch is already partially engaged. As you know, driving with your clutch partially engaged will eventually burn it out.

 

Get under the car and double-check it. There should be 1-2 mm play at the slave cylinder. With the 210, you can pull back the release lever by hand (against the internal spring) to check the play.

 

Check the clutch play every few months, to ensure there is a little play. The Datsun schedule in the owner's manual says to do a full inspection of the clutch adjustment every 24 months.

 

Sounds like I'm gonna spend some time on it tomorrow. I really would hate to drive it to work tomorrow, but I gotta do what I gotta do Thanks for the specs GG!

 

 

 

 

 

EDIT: just to make sure I'm correct, on the pedal I should have 1-5mm before it starts to disengage, and the clutch slave should be about 2MM before it begins pressing out the clutch fork?

Edited June 30, 2011 by metalmonkey47

[metalmonkey47]

And another forgotten question,

 

 

is the glazed clutch going to wear back in over time? Or am I pretty much screwed into pulling the transmission again?

[68Datsun510]

Maybe im just a nit picker, but you NEED your flywheel machined. It may be warped, or even cracked from heat or abuse. Take it to a competent machine shop, tell them what its off of, and that you need it resurfaced. They will have the machining specs in a book.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

:blink:

Monkeygirl learning to drive standard may have something to do with it ollz... :lol:

[metalmonkey47]

Maybe im just a nit picker, but you NEED your flywheel machined. It may be warped, or even cracked from heat or abuse. Take it to a competent machine shop, tell them what its off of, and that you need it resurfaced. They will have the machining specs in a book.

 

Well, I had a prior Datsun employee that works at a shop across the street from my Autozone that had machined and repaired my head after a bolt broke off, crawl up under it and measure it to spec, and game me instructions on cleaning it off. Mentioned that it didn't seem to need any other attention and looks as if it was recently machined. I can only assume the PO had it done, since the clutch looks new'ish at the time I pulled the transmission.

 

 

 

:blink:

Monkeygirl learning to drive standard may have something to do with it ollz... :lol:

 

ollz, I knew you'd bring that up :rofl: To be honest, she impressed me! She was quick off the clutch, and didn't let it slip much at all. She's a quick learner and I'm proud of her I have a 10 minuet video of it. lol

Edited June 30, 2011 by metalmonkey47

[Ken_B]

Maybe im just a nit picker, but you NEED your flywheel machined. It may be warped, or even cracked from heat or abuse. Take it to a competent machine shop, tell them what its off of, and that you need it resurfaced. They will have the machining specs in a book.

 

 

What he said! Well worth it to have it done, especially if you drive it hard.

[Monkeygirl47]

:blink:

Monkeygirl learning to drive standard may have something to do with it ollz... :lol:

 

 

 

 

Grrrrrr ...

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Grrrrrr ...

 

 

:rofl: :hug:

:rofl:

[Monkeygirl47]

:rofl: :hug:

:rofl:

 

 

I bet I did better for starters than you did ! So HA!

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

I bet I did better for starters than you did ! So HA!

 

 

:lol:

[ggzilla]

You don't need to machine the flywheel everytime you change the clutch. It can prevent some problems if you do it, but it is not strictly necessary. Even the factory service manual doesn't recommend always machining it.

 

monkey, when you push the clutch pedal, it engages the clutch. You want it fully dis-engaged while driving.

 

is the glazed clutch going to wear back in over time?

No, it won't get better with time. But hopefully if you adjust the clutch correctly, it will start working again. It's worth a try before pulling it apart.

 

on the pedal I should have 1-5mm before it starts to [engage]

Just make sure you can push the pedal with your little pinky finger 1-5 mm before the pedal gets hard. That is called "play".

 

 

the clutch slave should be about 2MM before it begins pressing out the clutch fork?

Kind of, but you are not checking to see if the fork moves. Instead you will check to see that the slave cylinder rod has 1-2 mm play when the fork is pulled all the way back.

[Monkeygirl47]

:lol:

 

IN YOUR FACE :D.

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

IN YOUR FACE :D.

 

:lol:

:rofl:

:hairy:

:P :poke:

[Monkeygirl47]

:lol:

:rofl:

:hairy:

:P :poke:

 

Okay you are obsessed with smiley faces.. ha

[Guest 510kamikazifreak]

Okay you are obsessed with smiley faces.. ha

 

 

was being nice :P

coulda shoulda didnt twist that around :lol:

[hang_510]

did you replace the flexible hose to the slave cylinder?

 

 

Sounds like you did not have the old clutch adjusted properly, and still don't.

X2

[metalmonkey47]

I took up some slack on the pedal/push rod, and I decided that it must not have been releasing the clutch all the way with the pedal in

[banzai510(hainz)]

I bleed the slave cylinder right off the bat and ck for play at the clutchfork /slave. you go to make sure the T/O bearing isnt pushing the fingers in or a longer T/O bearing sleeve was installed by mistake thus pushing the clutch fingers in.

[ggzilla]

So is it better now?

 

If not, did you confirm there is slack at the pedal and there is slack at the slave?

[68Datsun510]

You don't need to machine the flywheel everytime you change the clutch. It can prevent some problems if you do it, but it is not strictly necessary. Even the factory service manual doesn't recommend always machining it.

 

True, not every time, but he said it was "glassed like hell" in an earlier post...