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Z20E swap

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Thinking of buying Rex Domini's 200sx for the power train. What do you guys think about my putting

thea Z20E and 5 spd into my wagon as my daily. Should go in pretty easy I would think. Just tired of screwing around with the Weber. I want a VG, but, this might work till I get everything rounded up. The rear disks would be a nice upgrade too.

Any thoughts?

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You will need the high pressure fuel pump but it's in line and not in the tank so that's a plus. There are just 4 or 5 wires that you have to hook up to get the EFI running. All the sensors and the computer are on their own harness and easy enough to pull through the hole in the driver's side firewall to remove. Use the Z20E motor mts and rad if it's ok.


You will need to shorten the driveshaft or get one from a 510 sedan. I've heard the sedan one is within 1/2" of being perfect for swapping long 5 speeds into goons and that will do. The tranny mount will need mods and good to go.


I like this!

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Go for it, and post how it works out. I have a Z20E sitting on a pallet I'm tempted to put in something, but have been chicken. You can be the lab rat(sun). You can usually find a factory service manual on eBay for 200SX for not much money. It'll have a ton of info on testing the various sensors and components. Easier to read wiring diagrams too.


I've seen a 510 in the Spokane area with this swap. The guy loved the results. I didn't have time to really quiz him on details. I recall it had homemade motor mounts, but I don't know why. Maybe he got the engine without any mounts and just cooked some up.



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it is more work than people think...my first naps-z was a Z20S from a '80 510/Stanza...not sure what differences there are between the 200SX Z20E and that motor, but mine was a front sump oil pan, so I had to modify the sway bar and center link, and I had to flip the crossmember to clear the oil pan...a different pan will fix two of those issues, but the naps trans I had used brackets that hit the center link. The radiator did not fit at all, but the 200SX may bolt right in.


I also had to build motor mounts and a transmission mount, as well as a ton of little fitment issues. I know you can get various mounts and oil pans that can make that motor work without as much effort, but be prepared to look for parts, because the motors are a little different. I also found that the motor mounts locations are different on a 86 naps z24 block than they were on the Z20S, so you may not have any issues at all, the Z20E may have mounts in the right spot, just be prepared in case of complications. After you get it to fit in the engine bay, be prepared to spend money for a custom length driveshaft.


As far as electrical goes, try to use all of the factory wiring and parts if you can, if you do go with an aftermarket fuel pump, check to see if you will need a higher pressure pump than the average cheap-o units built for carburetor applications(most new fuel injected motors run 30+ PSI, and many aftermarket fuel pumps are around 4-20 operating PSI).


FI is nice for a daily driver, and the Z20E should weigh less than the VG, but remember that without boost you will not have much more HP than the factory engine that came in your wagon....on the plus side, it is fuel injected, so you could always put a very small turbo with 3-4 PSI on it for a little extra power and the computer should be able to compensate(you may have to get a stiffer spring for the fuel pressure regulator if it has one or a brand new nissan fuel pump to replace the old one in order to keep from leaning out).

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See HRH and Sealick on here, both have wired up the 200sx EFIs to their vehicles. You have the mounts on the motor so use them.... they should mount into the 510 or damn close. Rad is wider I think, so just run the top hose over to the stock 510 rad inlet. Forgot about the pan but they are both cars with the steering linkages to the rear and front sump. If anything else is in the way mod the pan. The gussets from the block to the tranny can be left off... my 620 didn't have them and ran for 15 years that way.


You will also have IR alternator and a larger master cylinder. Look at the struts too the calipers may be larger than yours.


I like where this is going.

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I say leave it alone sort out the weber and save your money and do the swap once... just me, I have done stuff more than once because I wanted something quick UNTIL I found what I really wanted... spent more time and money than if I would have waited until I had what I needed and done it once.... my .02 cents



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Since a Z20 block is supposed to be more or less the same as an L20, other than the dipstick being on the wrong side, would an L pan and pickup tube be a bolt-on to the Z20?





Yes, L pan and pickup tube will bolt right on to the Z20 block.


Wiring directions are here: http://community.rat...ct-is-finished/


Yes the L20B/Z20 blocks are so similar that they are basically the same. The oil pans will swap BUT both motors sit at very different angles and the pans are tilted to reflect that. A Z20 with an L20B pan will not be level across the bottom and will be tilted down on the driver's side. Presumably the oil pick up tube will be affected as well.

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Well I don't know how much help this will be but I met this guy named Ray (dont know last name) at a local datto club meeting in SE Portland and he put a Z20E into his 510 and seemed to like it a lot. If any of you know a Dan Uphoff (spelling?) he could probably put you in touch with Ray.

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