kaoss Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 You build adjustable arms? As in I could adjust the camber with them? Got any pics? What do those run for a set? Does the upper ball joint have enough travel for me to lay out on a 25" tall tire? (Don't ask haha) Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted May 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Not sure, the tallest wheel tire combo I've ran with these was an 18 with a 235/35-18. They would be $200 for the pair of adjustables. Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Awesome. Now you need to figure out how to machine the HB spindle to accept a 90's toyota hub, for a super easy 5 lug conversion. I know one guy that does it for $115 shipped. So, the 720/HB lower arms just bolt on to my 77? Quote Link to comment
LCDC Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Beebani, you are the shit!! pretty soon you'll have new fenders and headlight cradles and etc, etc, etc. Keep up all you do!! Quote Link to comment
kaoss Posted August 3, 2009 Report Share Posted August 3, 2009 I saw a pic of the adjustables on here somewere, but I can't locate it, do you mind posting it again? Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 16, 2009 Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Jason - I'm approaching the start point on my 521 front suspension project. What do I need to know about the strut rod? Can I use the existing 521 strut rod, or am I going to need to sort something else out? What have other people done? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted September 16, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2009 Jason - I'm approaching the start point on my 521 front suspension project. What do I need to know about the strut rod? Can I use the existing 521 strut rod, or am I going to need to sort something else out? What have other people done? According to Jason (yellow620) you need to get the strut rod from the hardbody pickups, as it is a little different. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 What have the other people that have purchased these control arms used? What did you design it to use? Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Hey Jason (Beebani) - any interest in making a LCA something like the one below and incorporating a low as possible lower shock mount? I'd buy a set :D Hell.. I may just modify a set of late 620 LCA's like this and make frame tabs.. Hmm.. Anyone want to chime in? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted September 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah Steve, that's what I was gonna do to my truck if I had kept it. I didn't really take into consideration the strut rods when designing the uca's cause I used my modified stock lca's on my truck. Glenn, the guy that helped me design/test them never mentioned about the strut rods being different. If you got the time/money I'd love to build a set of the lca's pictured; I think they're a way better way to go than the strut rods. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 without a tc rod how would you jack caster into the front end? that could be a very retarded question but i dont care!:) Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah Steve, that's what I was gonna do to my truck if I had kept it. I didn't really take into consideration the strut rods when designing the uca's cause I used my modified stock lca's on my truck. Glenn, the guy that helped me design/test them never mentioned about the strut rods being different. If you got the time/money I'd love to build a set of the lca's pictured; I think they're a way better way to go than the strut rods. Ok... Well.. Want to make a set? It will need frame tabs. I don't have the fabrication equipment I'd want to make them.. without a tc rod how would you jack caster into the front end? that could be a very retarded question but i dont care!:) The castor is not adjustable from the factory. You'd need to either adjust the strut rod length or the LCA position.. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 castor isnt adjustable? really tighting up the rods wouldn't add castor? Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 castor isnt adjustable? really tighting up the rods wouldn't add castor? Stock, the rods aren't adjustable. There is a hard stop collar on the rod that the nut snugs up against to keep it all in place and not over compress the bushing. Just like a 510. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Ok, two things here for clarification.:D First, you do NOT use TC rods from a HB. Use the TC rods from a 78/79 620 that bolts to the 78/79 lower arm that you are using. They need shortened though, but i cant remember how much. Second, Castor IS adjustable on the 620 from the factory.:D It is adjusted by the shimpack on the upper control arm mounting bolts. Quote Link to comment
butcherboyjc Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 I purchased Beebani's upper control arms and they worked great. But could caster be added if the upper control arms were re-designed. Instead of the ball joint mount being in the center it could be offset towards the rear of the truck? And I thought that the shim packs on the upper control arm adjusted camber. Quote Link to comment
slodat Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 I purchased Beebani's upper control arms and they worked great. But could caster be added if the upper control arms were re-designed. Instead of the ball joint mount being in the center it could be offset towards the rear of the truck? And I thought that the shim packs on the upper control arm adjusted camber. What did you do for the T/C rods? Quote Link to comment
butcherboyjc Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 I used the late 720, believe it was an 84 lower control arms (the ball joints are bolted on not pressed in) and the 720 radius rod. I couldnt use the original 620 radius rod bracket because it doesnt line up, I welded on a new bracket. I got rid of my torsion bars by going over to coilovers. I followed Fineline's build and used QA-1 coilovers. Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted September 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Yeah Steve, do have a set of lca's I can mod or copy for the project? PM me with details and we'll ge crackin'! I got a welder and some other tools at home so I have more ability to get things done faster now. Quote Link to comment
SHADY280 Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 for my tc rods im using the stock 75 rods, then welding a 1/4" thick plate to them at the arm end, and mounting it to the 2 inner most ball joint bolts. also beebanis arms worked out uber nice. Quote Link to comment
RatRod25 Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 What is the ball joint angle set too? lifted, lowered stock? Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted September 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 What is the ball joint angle set too? lifted, lowered stock? I've run them at the stock angles and layed out on 18's Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 And I thought that the shim packs on the upper control arm adjusted camber. It does adjust camber, but you can add more shims to the front or rear mounting point to adjust your caster as well. Quote Link to comment
1972.5 dat Posted September 23, 2009 Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 how much if i need them extind 1in or so longer to help wit camber issuse:unsure: Quote Link to comment
BEEBANI Posted September 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2009 how much if i need them extind 1in or so longer to help wit camber issuse:unsure: add another $20. P.S.--I have a set of these in stock right now due to a member ordering but not paying.:( Quote Link to comment
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