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drops.....please help!


mypos620

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you can drop it to the ground without bags. The real question is, how much ground clearance do you want on a static drop and are you looking to notch the rear frame or leave it alone?

 

I ran about 4" of clearance. I think Icehouse has less. maybe 3"

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2eDeYe;4825']About 5-6"s

 

Torsion bars in front and blocks in back minus a few leaves (I wouldn't pull leaves myself)

 

Do worry about them breaking?

 

P.S if I didn't have to commute I would go even lower :)

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im going to do 6in blocks in the rear this weekend (i have 3in now) my bars are turned down as far as i can tell as far as they can go. ive been told you can get longer bolts to get more drop is this true?

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im going to do 6in blocks in the rear this weekend (i have 3in now) my bars are turned down as far as i can tell as far as they can go. ive been told you can get longer bolts to get more drop is this true?

 

You reindex the bars one notch to get them lower, plus doing that keeps the arms up above the frame. I you buy longer bolts then the adjustment arms hang low.

4" blocks are the tallest you can get. I know you weren't thinking of stacking blocks.... that's no good :mad:

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Do worry about them breaking?

 

It has more to do with the ride quality/handling for me...and u-joint life (axle wrap kills u-joints quick)

 

You don't need longer bolts, just re-index the torsion bars...

http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=3901&KW=index

 

I agree with Bee...why do the same thing three times (if you installed the 3" blocks)

I would wait and do it right, which would include shaving the carrier bearing crossmember.

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i really need to reindex my torsion bars already went through one of the torsion brackets.. the other clearence problem is the tranny xmember and hitting the frame if you don't have a notch.... the axel hitting the frame can get annoying..

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well with all the static dropped vehicles i have driven i have gotten use to it.. but people who ride in my truck always ask " :eek: what the hell was that did something break" so on second thought mono leaf it with a flipped overload and a 3 inch block.. :D

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2eDeYe;4895'']It has more to do with the ride quality/handling for me...and u-joint life (axle wrap kills u-joints quick)

 

Since you are also a 4x4 dude I have a question for you :D I see jacked up fords all the time, it seems they shim the axle to reduce the drive line angle. At the tranny/transfercase the angle is very bad and its not the same angle as the lower u-joint. So why don't they get drive line vibrations? I do see them stranded on the side of the road from time to time. With the drive line laying on the ground :eek:

 

I left the overloads in my leaf pack, so now instead of 3 leafs I have 2. I want to C notch it so the axle has some where to go during ruff conditions. Right now I have about 1 inch of suspension travel in the rear. I bought a set of rear shocks from Hainz that work great. I only hit the frame on BIG bumps, and the front is way worse (on the cut stoppers :( )

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Jeff, let's just drop that bitch! Pay me later, or something, let's just get it done! Your truck yearns to be on the ground!

 

 

Dude tell me about it! I wish I had a king cab frame I could just drop off at your place. Shit if only we live a few hours closer.

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Since you are also a 4x4 dude I have a question for you :D I see jacked up fords all the time, it seems they shim the axle to reduce the drive line angle. At the tranny/transfercase the angle is very bad and its not the same angle as the lower u-joint. So why don't they get drive line vibrations? I do see them stranded on the side of the road from time to time. With the drive line laying on the ground :eek:

 

I left the overloads in my leaf pack, so now instead of 3 leafs I have 2. I want to C notch it so the axle has some where to go during ruff conditions. Right now I have about 1 inch of suspension travel in the rear. I bought a set of rear shocks from Hainz that work great. I only hit the frame on BIG bumps, and the front is way worse (on the cut stoppers :( )

 

You can run a double cardan joint (sometimes called a CV) It's basically a 2 u-joint-joint lol

 

1350%20CV.jpg

 

With this you just rotate the pinion to point at the output flange (or whatever is there) and your angles good.

Yeah , those big truck guys make me laugh too...

 

I just unbolted my bumps and tossed em ;)

I've been debating notching the new frame and maybe recessing the spring mounts...Shouldn't be too difficult but I have a lot of work to do before I get there...:rolleyes:

 

BEE the bed mounts are different...I think

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2eDeYe;4951']

I've been debating notching the new frame and maybe recessing the spring mounts...Shouldn't be too difficult but I have a lot of work to do before I get there...:rolleyes:

 

Dude you need update us :D I have an excuse, my phone camera is broke :(

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if the bed mounts are all that is different and the frames are the same length you could put a kc body on your frame with minor fab work (but that shouldn't be a problem for you :D :D ) just my 2 cents but i have seen it done with toyotas

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My old '79 Ford Bronco had a very short wheel base and some height. It had a double cardan joint... smooth!

 

A Constant Velocity joint's driving members are steel balls constrained in curved grooves between the forks of the joint (photo at left). These joints are also called Double Cardan joints. This design operates efficiently up to a 80

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