Zeusimo Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hello Fello Ratuners, Been A While Since I've Been On :hmm: Lately I've Been Noticing That I Am Having To Push My Clutch Pedal All The Way To The Floor (It Was Also Like This When I Bought It, But I Adjusted The Pedal's Play And There Weren't Any Problems) Yesterday I Adjusted My Pedal Play To 1/4 Of An Inch And It Is The Same, I'm Not Grinding Any Gears (YET) But I Want To Get Rid Of This Problem Before I Do Maybe I Need To Bleed Or Change The Fluid....? I Have Not Touched Anything, Transmission And Clutch Wise Since I Bought This Truck Mostly Because I Have No Idea What The Hell I Am Doing When It Comes To Trannys (My First Stick Shift) Any1 Know What's Going On? Help Is Greatly Appreciated :D 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Peddle 'play' or clearance before the linkage starts to push on the master is only a few mm or 1/16" Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Sorry, you lost me with every fist letter capitalized. :rolleyes: 2 Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 That's Where It's At Right Now, The Peddle Gets Hard At 1/4 Of An Inch But Then It Gets Harder Towards The Floor... Hmm... It Might Be The Spring Holding It Back :mellow: Gonna Check Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Nope It's Not The Spring <_< http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GJCRuKFK_Ec 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 bleed the slave. refill ect... then try again Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 Hehe... How Do I Do That? Same As Bleedig Brakes?? 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Have someone hold the peddle down and you open the bleeder and let it spurt out. Close the bleeder lift the peddle... repeat 4-5 times to be sure. Do NOT let the master run dry. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I Looked Down The Reservoir And There's Nothing It's Not Dry But There's Not Much There I Must Have A Really Small Leak Because It Took 10 Months For This To Happen I Just Fill With DOT 3 Break Fluid, Bleed, Then Fill Again? 2 Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I Just Fill With DOT 3 Break Fluid, Bleed, Then Fill Again? Yup, DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed from the slave until fluid comes out clear and no air is coming out. Watch the res though, it empties quick. Quote Link to comment
Lude944 Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 I Just Fill With DOT 3 Break Fluid, Bleed, Then Fill Again? are you bleeding from the master cylinder (on top) or the slave cylinder (on bottom)...Check to see if your slave cylinder is not seized i had similar problem to yours a couple months ago and my slave was seized...replaced slave and was good to go. I figured it out by disconnecting the line from the master to the slave (put a towel cause it will squirt and this stuff is corrosive) and pumping the pedal. When i did this i was able to depress the pedal all the way and when connected the pedal had no play. Good luck Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 I Did This Yesterday And It Felt Brand New But, Today I Went Out To My Truck, Started It, I Was About To Reverse And The Clutch Peddle Had No Resistance So In My Mind I Was Like (RRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRHHHHHHHHGGGGG :crying:) I Started Pumping The Peddle And It Got Back To Normal :huh: Does That Sound Bad? Perhaps It Was Because I Used Synthetic DOT 3 Fluid? (That's All They Had) I Guess I'm Back Where I Was.... I Do Get More Peddle Movement From Refilling And Bleeding, But There Is Still Some Play. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m_i8l3-HW98 This Is Also Leaky, I Was Thinking About Replacing It Since It's Cheap Along With The Hose http://www.rockauto....o.php?pk=484023 http://www.rockauto....o.php?pk=483881 Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Sorry, you lost me with every fist letter capitalized. :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 it leaks already. replace it. also I think the fork arm would be closer to the slave. my clutch is also soft on my yelow car if i dont use it a few weeks and it pumps up after 2 or 3 pumps.your leaks already unless maybe you try to rebleed it. and see what it does use dot 3 fluid see if that helps from leaking Quote Link to comment
metalmonkey47 Posted June 9, 2011 Report Share Posted June 9, 2011 Are you 100% positive there's no leaking clutch lines? Have someone pump it while you sit underneath. Watch all the soft lines to see if they're ballooning in weak spots. BAM, lost pressure. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 I'm Positive The Hose Leaks, Now That I Bled The Line There Was A Big Puddle Of Fluid Under Truck This Morning... So I'm Back Where I Started.... <_< I Already Ordered Slave And Hose, Might Be In Wed Or Thrs. That Should Fix Problem Forever (Or At Least A Long Time) Quote Link to comment
Stfwells Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Sorry, you lost me with every fist letter capitalized. :rolleyes: ^^^^Like Matt said...learn some grammar. Your posts are driving me :frantics: . It's like the worlds longest book title or some shit. Quote Link to comment
Zeusimo Posted June 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Ok, Got My Parts Yesterday... So Now It's FRIDAY, FRIDAY!♫, Removed Parts And Gonna Install New Ones Now... Just One More Question... Is It Bad To Use Synthetic DOT 3 Fluid? Only Other Thing I Can Find Is Vatozone Fluid (I Know It's A Big NO-NO On Old Motors But Clutch/Break Systems?) :unsure: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 DOT 3 is superseded by DOT 4 which is almost identical. If you have found some DOT 3, use it. The 4 has a slightly higher boiling point. BTW all glycol based brake fluids are synthetic. Quote Link to comment
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